• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Bad to bottom out shocks?

I would err on the side of having shorter shocks myself. Its been described to me that you get better traction on compression than droop, which makes sense to me.
 
tayman said:
so... what is better then? Bumpstop and lose a little over 2" of up-travel? Or get shorter shocks and lose downtravel?


what kind of suspension do you run?? 4 link, 3 link, radius setup?
themud
 
at the moment it's stock, but I plan on radius style longarms in the future.

FWIW, they're on the heep now. I flexed it out, and I can stuff a tire with it only just trying to bottom. I haven't bumpstopped yet, but I've been over a number of speedbumps, driven on farm road, and flexed it out, and they're fine.

BTW, I get a HELLUVA lot more droop than I expected with stock arms!!!
 
the reason I asked about suspension is when you go to a flexier front end if you are still using the factory 4 link(ie uppers and lowers) you will eat upper control are bushings rapidly and that sucks downtravel is great but it comes with other problems...
keep that in mind in this case I say bumpstop accordingly and check your brake lines and get the droop...
themud
 
yeah, thanks.

Like I said, I'm planning on long arms, hopefully fairly soon.

My brake lines are fine too... I just put on 3/4 ton GMC lines. 7" longer than stock. I think I'll be ok.:D
 
XJ_ranger said:
cutt off your OEM bumpstop tower, add 2.5" of tube, weld it back on...

I seen this done before. It may work but it also makes the bumpstop tower rub against the spring and make stupid noises when flexing. Hockey pucks bolted or glued to the bottom bumpstop plate would be better.
 
Here's my thoughts...

If your tires didn't rub before you switched to longer shocks just relocate the lower mounts down 2.5" or 1.5" and use one hockey puck.

Cut your stock mounts off and build what the following picture shows.

Picture718.jpg
 
TNT said:
Here's my thoughts...

If your tires didn't rub before you switched to longer shocks just relocate the lower mounts down 2.5" or 1.5" and use one hockey puck.

Cut your stock mounts off and build what the following picture shows.

Picture718.jpg

That's pretty neat. Is that your work?
 
No it's not, but I did some that were almost identical on the HP D44 that I built about 6 years ago... My pics were lost in a computer crash. I'm building another HP D44 right now and will post up my pics when it's done.
 
Yeah, I really like that. I might just do it. I might go wheelin this weekend, so we'll see what happens...
 
BlueCuda said:
The shock mounts are much stronger than people here are making them out to be. Since i put my 8.8 in and moved my shock mounts my rear shocks have been to long. This has been about two years ago and I have just been to damn lazy to fix the problem. I have bottomed the shocks out HARD hard enough I thought they were going to come through the floor. The shock mounts upper and lower are just fine. By no means is it a good idea to run shocks to long but the world will not end and the shocks will not come through the floor and kill your children in the back seat.

Well, I proved how strong my shock mounts are. Snapped the drivers side rear shock right at the top of the shaft. So I was right, the shock mounts are strong lol. I also took out my fat aggresion on the bottom shock mount and it broke off at the threads when trying to remove the shock. So now its time to quit bieng lazy and put the correct shocks on it.
 
hahaha
well, that's encouraging!

I did go wheeling that weekend, and everything held up fine. I still haven't bumpstupped, and I don't think I will until I get bigger tires.
 
Back
Top