Axle Shaft / Hub Removal Prob's

[1996cc]

Just turn the "wheels" all the way one direction. Then hit the yoke ears of the outer axle shaft. It will pop out in less than 5 hits with a 3 lb. sledge (as long as you're hitting it right. Works like magic.

 

[duke000088]

Is it dangerous to use a 3 jaw gear puller (5-10 ton) to remove the hubs? Of the many techniques, this one is rarely mentioned. I saw it on the jeep.off-road write-up. I rented one from AZ... looks very easy... but I worry about the driver pin mangling my stub axle (although the end of the axle appears to have a recess that is perfect for a puller (the, uhm, "pointy" end of the driving pin). Is the stub axle "hardened"... perhaps I should stick an old socket on the end just for insurance.

Is pulling on that outer flange (where the studs attached) bad for the bearing? Even if it is, is it OK if I intend to swap in a shiny new hub when I finally get this old one out?

I'm hoping the socket/extension/spark plug wedgie maneaver will work for me. But I do have this cool puller here and it just looks like so much fun (can you tell I've never used a puller?)

 

[Blaine B.]

Was refering to the writeup that was linked, guy was pulling the cotter pin with needle nose pliers. Sorry. As for beating the hub off, good luck. Out here on the west coast they come off pretty easy since we don't have to deal with salty roads.

I always have too.

 

[Matthew Currie]

Is it dangerous to use a 3 jaw gear puller (5-10 ton) to remove the hubs? Of the many techniques, this one is rarely mentioned. I saw it on the jeep.off-road write-up. I rented one from AZ... looks very easy... but I worry about the driver pin mangling my stub axle (although the end of the axle appears to have a recess that is perfect for a puller (the, uhm, "pointy" end of the driving pin). Is the stub axle "hardened"... perhaps I should stick an old socket on the end just for insurance.

Is pulling on that outer flange (where the studs attached) bad for the bearing? Even if it is, is it OK if I intend to swap in a shiny new hub when I finally get this old one out?

I'm hoping the socket/extension/spark plug wedgie maneaver will work for me. But I do have this cool puller here and it just looks like so much fun (can you tell I've never used a puller?)

I don't know whether it's dangerous, but it's uncomfortable, because you're forcing the axle shaft into the tube against...well, what are you forcing it against? I don't know, something inside the differential, I guess, but it doesn't really provide a very positive feeling, kind of mushy, and one of the things between the puller and whatever it's pushing against is the universal joint. I tried it once with an axle puller (the kind that attaches to the studs, very powerful) but backed off. I think if it's stuck enough to need a puller, it's probably not going to come off comfortably with a jaw type puller.

 

[Blaine B.]

Picture of said puller?

The only puller I can imaging seeing is the type of puller than would pull the outer "hub" off by pushing against the shaft.

Then you'd get to the bearings inside of the hub. Which aren't servicable. And then you'd still be left with the backside of the hub attached to the knuckle...which doesn't get you any closer to removing it.

 

[Matthew Currie]

Picture of said puller?

The only puller I can imaging seeing is the type of puller than would pull the outer "hub" off by pushing against the shaft.

Then you'd get to the bearings inside of the hub. Which aren't servicable. And then you'd still be left with the backside of the hub attached to the knuckle...which doesn't get you any closer to removing it.

Here's a link that shows one type of these pullers. I don't know what's made nowadays, or what can be rented. Sears used to sell them. My old Scout had tapered axle shafts, and the brake drums were integral with the hubs, just like that old Plymouth, so this was the only tool with which it was possible to work on the rear brakes. The hammer wrench was an integral part of the design, because those tapers were tight enough to break even a big wrench just trying to twist the puller. Needless to say, the puller itself was very strong, and made of very tough stuff.

My worry using this on a Jeep front axle is that the puller is strong enough to break anything but itself, so if there's a possibility of damage caused by forcing the axle shaft into the differential case (remember it just floats on splines) the puller will simply do the damage without warning.

edited to add: duh, I forgot the link, didn't I? http://www.plymouthbulletin.com/rearbrakes.htm

 

[duke000088]

Yes, damage to the differential was exactly what I was thinking too. The puller I got at Autozone was similar to what's shown in the link but it has three jaws that just hook around the flange that the studs are in. In theory, it would work but the central pin of the puller pushes on the axle shaft... and the force is therefore being transmitted to, as Matthew said, who-knows-where inside the pumpkin. I backed off too once I realized how the forces were pushing.

In a typical case of hub removal, the turn-the-wheel trick is pretty neat once the rust bond broken or weak.

My hub was frozen on due to one of the hub/knuckle bolts being TOTALLY seized in the bore of the knuckle (the 12pt head snapped off after one crank of the ratchet). There was NO WAY to pull that hub out. Had to hacksaw the bolt between the hub and knuckle and then get a machine shop too press the rusted hub bolt (100-ton press!) out of the knuckle. I haven't seen anyone talk about this particular type of problem with this job... it is probably rare but worth mentioning in case someone else runs into it.

 

[FlexdXJ]

just hit it with a sledge a few billion times and it will come right off. seriously it should not take too much effort to remove them

 

[Matthew Currie]

just hit it with a sledge a few billion times and it will come right off. seriously it should not take too much effort to remove them

HA!

Should not and will not do not always coincide. My son had one that was rusted in so badly that the bolts would not turn, not to mention that the hub wouldnt' come off. I had to torch the ears off the hub to pull it, heat the knuckle, and then burn one of the bolts out with a torch because I could not even punch the stub out. I've had them look clean and take an hour to get off, and look rotten and rusty and awful and practically fall out. You never know.

 

[David Rizor]

Snap-on offers an air hammer bit that you can put an impact socket on.Loosen the bolts with a breaker bar turn them out about 3/8”. Then push them out with the Air Hammer. Pulling on the hub will ruin the wheel bearing maybe not right away but it will speed the ware. Defiantly use anti-seize!