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Axle Flange Welding

QckSlvr

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Canada
Hey i've already asked this question on the modified tech forum but no one really gave me a reasonable answer (a reason anyway) as to whether or not its safe and smart to weld up the holes on my d44 axle flange before redrilling them to put the ever popular zj disc brake swap on.

Heres my old thread which didnt really help...
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60660

anyone have any experience welding to the flange?
is it just an extrusion off the axle tube?

Any info would be appreciated... Thanks.
 
you will find it very hard to redrill the axles after you weld them. I have tried this before and you will find out that when oyu try to drill out he area that has been welded that the drill bit or end mill for that matter will walk and the patter you desire will not be achieved.
buy new axles or see if the pattern will fit in a new area.
 
I did the same swap your talking any questions you have just pm me. I used a rubicon TJ retaining plate because it already has the spacer built onto it. I didn't weld the holes. One of the holes lines up perfect I used that one on the backing plate and bolted it down. then the other three holes need to be redrilled. bolt it in and be done. I wouldn't worry about it I am running 36s and no problems with the brake brackets. I would almost think the flange is cast because it was very very easy to drill through.
 
If you need to plug the holes don't weld them shut, use a steel plug that's a thousandth's undersized and press them in. Make them a little thinner than the axle flange. When you press them in, make sure they're flush on the face and you do "half weld" them in the rear doing no welds on the face. After welding each one in place, stand the axle on end (flange up) against the wall until it's cool to the touch. Doing so will allow the heat to rise up from the flange and not into the axle shaft itself. If you have access to a lathe, face the front once you've inserted and welded all of the plugs. Do your best to drill your new bolt patter as offset as possible from the now plugged holes. If you have to over lap one or two that's no biggie - you just don't want to do it on all of them.

Also make sure you're using the right sized drill bit for the knurl on the new studs your using. To big or two small will make your day suck either way.

That's the correct way to re-drill an axle flange. :D
 
Thanks guys that pretty much gave me all the info I needed.

I believe that the top 2 holes will overlap, I'm still waiting on the horribly overpriced parts to arrive at the dealership to check the patterns to know for certain.

At least now I have all the info I need to do the swap the way I'd like.
 
it seems some of the replys on here are talking about the axle shaft flange and not the axle housing flange. You were talking about the axle housing flange right?
 
BUCKYXJ said:
it seems some of the replys on here are talking about the axle shaft flange and not the axle housing flange. You were talking about the axle housing flange right?

Wow, you're right. I didn't get the question I guess.

In that case, the housing flange is not important at all. You could cut it off in a bandsaw and weld a new one one if you could be sure and get it on the square. If you have to weld the holes it's no biggie but I still recommend that you put the holes up.

Matt
 
Hey,

I am talking about the flange on the axle housing itself. Where the studs come to bolt the retaning plate to the housing.

I want to change the housing so I dont need any spacers other than the one provided by the new TJ plate.

hope this clears things up.
 
QckSlvr said:
Hey,

I am talking about the flange on the axle housing itself. Where the studs come to bolt the retaning plate to the housing.

I want to change the housing so I dont need any spacers other than the one provided by the new TJ plate.

hope this clears things up.

Yep - the flange is much easier to deal with than the axle flange. If you have the tools and the resources I'd cut the cups off of a TJ rearend and replace yours. If you don't , weld the holes closed and drill the additional 3 you need (it's a 5 holed flange right?). If it's only 4 then no biggie.

You just about can't screw this up. No alignment bars are needed to weld up and redrill the holes and the holes aren't mission critical so they don't have to be perfect.

Matt
 
Anyone know the easiest way to remove that plastic vent barb, I'd like to change it to a steel fitting.

Is it just pressed in? Im thinking of trying to use a screw to extract it though a washer and socket to pull it out.
 
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