94XJ2door5speed
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Norwich, CT
Trying to make a long story short, I had purchased a 92' cherokee with a somewhat hacked lift. It had coils and poly spacers up front, aftermarket lower control arms and JKS discos. The rear was blocks, shackles connected to the factory shackles, and an add-a-leaf. So using your guys advice i measured from the center of the axle to the bottom of the fender flare and had 24" all the way around. So i believed it had a 7" lift going from 17" to 24". Now the spacers in the front were 3" poly spares which led me to believe the coils were probably 3" or 3.5" coils hence the lower control arms and trac bar bracket, which were way out of wack due to the spacers adding an extra 3" of lift. Well my everyday driver was so tired it was tucking 215's so i thought it was a good reason to put this "3" lift" on my 94' cherokee. So i started at 17.5" up front and 15" in the rear meaning the rear was sagging 2 inches lower than stock. Everyone still with me? Well upon installing this "3" lift" i set the front end down on its 215's again and something was very wrong. I now read 23.5" thats 6" over stock!!! How does the other Jeep with the poly spacers and springs read 7" and mine on just the springs make 7"??? So now with the aftermarket control arms the springs are pulled towards the rear ever so slightly, enough that the factory adjustment will fix it and what boggles me more is the trac bar drop bracket actually keeps the axle centered But limits axle drop alot when it maxs out the joint. So i am very confused and kinda worried, i know have made an 8 leaf pack bastard pack and 2" blocks to get the rear to go from 15" to 23". So now i have huge issues. I cant afford a slip yoke eliminator and if i had know i was gonna net 6" over stock height i would have never installed the lift. I wanted only a 3" or 3.5" lift so i wouldnt have these problems. So my main question is how is this possible and how do i make it driveable with the yoke out so far on the t-case? I plan on installing a t-case drop but is 1" enough or should i shim the rear to adjust the pinion angle as well? Maybe even have the drive shaft lengthend? Very confused need as much help as possible. I will try to post picks but this connection wont allow me to download them so they will need to wait. The 6" lift for $25 doesnt bother me so much as the fact that i dont know what to do about the rear drive shaft to make it driveable. I thought about the hack-n-tap but what do i need for a drive shaft if i use that, can i just use a stock one?