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at wit's end!!

man now ive replaced my vacum assembly, there were some leaks in it...what about the egr siliniod? i replaced the vacum to it(its on the fender drivers side right under hood) the engine wants to start..bad..but doesnt. the engine is cold, but after trying to start it the egr was warm..could it be stuck in the wrong position to start? thanks guys, lemmi know if ya think of anything
 
i couldnt get anypart on the egr to move. i unplugged both ends from the vacuum harness, unbolted it from the fender, noticed there was some build up onthe cylinder, so i sprayed it with pb blast. then i started blowing harder than a $20 whore on both ends, nothin moved
 
I had a cHEVY cELEBRITY (stupid capslock key!) that would do a similar thing - start and then die. Turned out the EGR was plugged. Back pressure from the crankcase was causing it to die. I replaced the EGR valve ad everything was peachy. DOH!
 
dirtymuddog said:
i couldnt get anypart on the egr to move. i unplugged both ends from the vacuum harness, unbolted it from the fender, noticed there was some build up onthe cylinder, so i sprayed it with pb blast. then i started blowing harder than a $20 whore on both ends, nothin moved
Click to expand...
The EGR is on the engine under the intake manafold, the valve on the fender is only the control and don't move.

EGR valve.

egr.jpg
 
ya i dont know if u replaced the coil?? but i had mine tested a autozone and they said it was within omes and was good but quess what? it was bad? i bought a new one solved my prob. good luck
 
A list of possibles from the sound of your problem, starts then dies, or starts hard, runs bad, then dies.
MAP unplugged either electircal or vacuum, vacuum line plugged into the wrong hole in the TB, faulty MAP. Barley starts and hard to keep running.
EGR stuck open, you can if your good use a pair of needle nosed pliers and make sure the EGR is seated all the way, if it is stuck sometimes just turning the rod from the diaphram to the stopper will loosen it up, sometimes you have to force the rod towards the manifold. Wiil start them die, if you can feather the gas pedal some and get it up into the higher RPM range it will usually run OK at higher RPM,s. Plug the vacuum line just before the EGR modulator, just for a test.
Excessive resisitance in the CPS wiring. Check yout new CPS for resistance, just becuase it's new doesn't mean it's good. I just swapped out a new one, because of excessive resisitance.
Hold a volt meter on the end of the ballast resistor. It should have volts both during start and run. Two different citrcuits until it gets to the ballast resistor, could be a bad splice. Like mentioned the fuel pump relay. But don't stop there, look at the relay holder also, they can get really corroded at the contacts.
Do a sync sensor test, not because the sync sensor is bad, but low input voltsge for the sync sensor is a sign something else is wrong, often a short in the sensor power supply circuit. Might as well test it for pulse while your there.
Fuel pressure or volume.
Problems are in the wiring and the connectors, even the grounds as often or more often than the sensors.
If the IAC isn't parking or is stuck shut, it might start, but you really have work the gas pedal to keep it going. Try starting with the gas pedal at about quarter pedal or a little less.
If the spark is really bad, it likely won't start or maybe just fire off of randon cyclinders and never really get going. An open circuit or excessive resisitance in the coil to cap wire and/or a ground short. Water in the ends of the cable boots.
You really have to be systematic or it gets real expensive real quick. I've got a whole set of junkyard sensors, just to test with and keep for trail spares.
The CPS bolts are special, swapping in the wrong bolt can cause a lot of grief.
You can be a cylinder off, when installing the distributor and it will run, maybe even two, more than that and if it starts, it won't likely run for long. You can have the same affect by having all of the calbes three cylinders or so off. The Renix is real forgiving in this regard, but it has limiits.
Good luck.
 
by the way, where is the IAC? i havent tested my egr yet, but i found it today and it looks like it was replaced by the previous owner that i got it from bout 6months ago.
 
bout to test the egr tomm, but where's the iac? thanks again for yalls extensive help. if this stuff doesnt work im bout to take it to the mechanic, but the guy there that will be doin the work is my brotherinlaw, hes been doin guess work right beside me..starting with the everday problems. the main problem is that this is a jeep,they have a whole differant set of everyday problems than other vehicles.
 
the main problem is that this is a jeep,they have a whole different set of everyday problems than other vehicles.
Click to expand...

By just reading this site you would think so because thats all we discuss but the problems are the same for all cars.
This is close to yours A is the IAC
HO-Mana.jpg
 
i appriciate that...youve been alot of help man..yall get the best diagrams, i just have the ole crappy haynes manual, gotta order the chiltons
 
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