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Are all aftermarket diff covers equal?

I have ruffstuff front and rear and love it. I have the counter sunk bolts on the cover because they help stiffen the whole center chunk.

I have never had any leak issues but I use a goop to seal mine up.
 
Factory with paint is way better than all others jk lol .
2012-07-28_12-36-04_300.jpg
 
Ok - I'd like to pose a question here -

Why would one choose a diff guard that mounts to the lower part of the diff, like this:
http://zoneoffroad.com/product-acc?ki=51&gr=

vs.

a diff guard that replaces the entire diff cover?

For the price of what could be bought at Zone Offroad, I could get a full plate from Solid and even save a few bucks.

I run one of those because my steering just barely touches the stock cover at full lock. An aftermarket cover would only make that issue worse. So I got the guard for the bottom half. Works great so far
 
I run one of those because my steering just barely touches the stock cover at full lock. An aftermarket cover would only make that issue worse. So I got the guard for the bottom half. Works great so far

/\ This! I had to actually trim down my warren diff guard so the steering wouldn't hit. Plus a half guard in the front is still better than nothing.

I have a riddler cover on the new axle sitting in the garage so we'll see if that one causes any steering issues at full lock.
 
So what about protection for the front of the differentials? Is there something to put on to protect that part as you skip over the rock or does that part of the axle provide enough protection?
 
Cant go wrong with ruffstuff. My 8.25 cover leaked and I called Dan at ruffstuff and he said the carrier cap bolts were most likely hitting. I pulled it off and found marks a little grinder action and no more leaks.

Ok so, I pulled the cover and yep, the bolts were hitting. Ground the cover a little and bam! No leaks. I have been fighting this for 2 years. That is a product fail in my opinion.
Got a Riddler for the front.
I also ditched the pita counter sunk bolts in favor of some longer than stock hex heads in grade 5. Now I am happy.
I just can't believe that the Ruff Stuff was not clearanced properly.:(
 
Ok so, I pulled the cover and yep, the bolts were hitting. Ground the cover a little and bam! No leaks. I have been fighting this for 2 years. That is a product fail in my opinion.
Got a Riddler for the front.
I also ditched the pita counter sunk bolts in favor of some longer than stock hex heads in grade 5. Now I am happy.
I just can't believe that the Ruff Stuff was not clearanced properly.:(

Every companies plate diff cover I have worked with has that issue.
 
Ok so, I pulled the cover and yep, the bolts were hitting. Ground the cover a little and bam! No leaks. I have been fighting this for 2 years. That is a product fail in my opinion.
Got a Riddler for the front.
I also ditched the pita counter sunk bolts in favor of some longer than stock hex heads in grade 5. Now I am happy.
I just can't believe that the Ruff Stuff was not clearanced properly.:(

Every companies plate diff cover I have worked with has that issue.


It is easier to grind the bearing cap a little.
 
Sounds like installer error to me...
Ruffstuff doesnt sell bitch parts, they sell fabricator parts. If you cant tell something isnt right during installation, you need one of them chrome peices... or you shouldnt be customizing vehicles.
 
Ridler FTW.

Consider the clearance to any steering mods you have or plan to to install befor buying any cover.

true, I like the solid cover on my zj, but it contacts the track bar sometimes because of the big fins it has in the face....
 
In regards to the bullet testing, it's valid in that it is an easily repeatable test of pure strength. None of the covers in that test were 3/8" thick like the ruff stuff covers. The geatlakes cover is plated down the middle with 1/2", but I'd still argue 3/8" overall would be stronger than a strap down the middle.
 
Sounds like installer error to me...
Ruffstuff doesnt sell bitch parts, they sell fabricator parts. If you cant tell something isnt right during installation, you need one of them chrome peices... or you shouldnt be customizing vehicles.

Really? Now a diff cover is a "fab part"? I usually don't get involved in Internet squabbles but, you sir are an idiot. Since when does one need to test fit a diff cover, check for all clearances, grind interfering parts, cycle the suspension, pressure test it, pull it off, have it powder coated, better yet por5 it, reinstall, and sit back and think about how great of a fabricator you are.
Idiot!
 
I see some covers are $100 and some are as much as $180. What makes one cover better than the other?
I will be buying one for my D30 soon and want the best value.
I have a Ruffstuff cover with a lube locker on the rear, it leaks!
What do you recommend?

Im surprised that no one has mentioned ARB's diff cover for the dana 30 (taken from ARBs site):

-Computer optimized cross brace design increases the structural rigidity of the whole axle
-Additional housing strength helps keep the ring & pinion gears meshing on the flat faces of the teeth, greatly increasing ring & pinion life and overall maximum load strength
-Top quality, high power neodymium magnets are used in both the drain plug and the dipstick to collect metallic wear particles as the vehicle moves
-Magnet location in the end of the dipstick allows the oil to be checked for tell-tale signs of internal damage- prolonged carrier bearing life due to extra support to the bearing alignment
-Approach/Departure angle optimized by angled exterior surfaces
-Unique dipstick/filler cap design allows differential oil level to be adjusted for customized high driveline angles

So that adds a couple of things that ARB claims is better than the others. Ive hightlighted them in bold. Im looking to get a cover myself and am debating between ARB and Riddler. Im leaning more toward the ARB because of the highlighted text. Other companies (unless I missed it), dont offer the same claim that ARB does in regards to bracing the axle. I know a couple of people who have the ARB and enjoy it.

Just my opinion (thus far :) ).
 
Any beefy diff cover will stiffen the centersection

Throw a good magnet in the bottom and call it done!

May as well order up a lubelocker, they kick butt
 
I have an ox up front so that takes care of that, but run a Ruff Stuff in the rear. I haven't had one leak problem and I did not have to do any fab. My guess is like whitexj98 said Dan had told him they were aware of the problem and it appears to be fixed.
 
Sounds like installer error to me...
Ruffstuff doesnt sell bitch parts, they sell fabricator parts. If you cant tell something isnt right during installation, you need one of them chrome peices... or you shouldnt be customizing vehicles.

Thats a pretty dumb comment...

They only need cleranced a few thousands of an inch. Can't tell untill you go inspecting becaue it will start leaking. If anything Ruff stuff should put a note saying if leaks then check for rub marks. But like I said eariler when I talked with Dan a few years ago it sounded like they had the issue taken care of...
 
Ruffstuff and a lubelocker on the front diff... I do get very slight weeping (just enough to keep the paint discolored) from the corners of the formed plate where the welds start and stop, but it hasn't leaked enough to require a top-off in the last year and a half, so I really don't care.

I would suggest putting a square-head NPT pipe plug in the fill port instead of the huge allen key plug they include, unless you are smarter than me and remembered to buy a large enough allen socket.
 
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