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Alternator/cable upgrades

Ok ... I've got a related question. My alternator looks like this:

http://www.sparkplugs.com/productImages/3/211-0129_E.JPG

How can I get a 2 AWG cable in that B+ Insulator? It's just too small down in there. I think even a 4 AWG wouldn't really fit.

I'm thinking maybe just break off the sides of the black insulator and mount a lug directly to the stud, then use a rubber boot to cover it:

http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/12001114/Images/1/starterprotred.jpg

Any other ideas?

The 4AWG cable fits fine. I trimmed the lug to fit the isolator and it has been working great. I do not have any pictures though.

How many amps is your alternator? The 4AWG cable should be fine for up to 150amps.
 
The 4AWG cable fits fine. I trimmed the lug to fit the isolator and it has been working great. I do not have any pictures though.

How many amps is your alternator? The 4AWG cable should be fine for up to 150amps.

Thanks for the info. I'm going to upgrade to the 135 amp alternator from a '98 ZJ V8. Did the 4AWG cable give a "squeeze" fit, or did it have some wiggle room? I'm asking about size because I haven't ordered the cables & lugs yet.

You're probably right ... 4AWG is likely more than enough. I have a '91 OBDI system with the existing 8AWG cable going from the alt B+ to the PDC, running through 2 60-amp fuses. I guess I'll just leave that in there, and piggy-back a 4AWG cable from the alt B+ to a 150A fuse, then to the front post on the PDC. That should be more than enough wire.

Mostly, I'm thinking about those times when you are jump-starting someone or running a winch and revving the motor. That will max out the alternator and require the fattest wire.
 
Ok ... I've got a related question. My alternator looks like this:

http://www.sparkplugs.com/productImages/3/211-0129_E.JPG

How can I get a 2 AWG cable in that B+ Insulator? It's just too small down in there. I think even a 4 AWG wouldn't really fit.

I'm thinking maybe just break off the sides of the black insulator and mount a lug directly to the stud, then use a rubber boot to cover it:

http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/12001114/Images/1/starterprotred.jpg

Any other ideas?

Remove the guard (easy - it's another nut under the lug,) and cut the straight parts of the fence off. Open up the gate until the cable/lug fits (I know it doesn't take much work to do for 1AWG - which is slightly larger,) and reinstall.

The shield cuts readily with a hand hacksaw, and you can make even shorter work of it with a Dremel (or similar tool.)

Debur the cuts with a fine file or medium-to-find sandpaper.

Reinstall the guard! If you don't, you'll short the battery against the alternator case (even if you cut all of the fence off of the guard and leave a flat disc, reinstall it. In fact, some people prefer to just cut it flat and be done with it.)
 
In fact, some people prefer to just cut it flat and be done with it.)

Yeah ... that's what I was talking about in my original post. Breaking off the sides of the protector (cutting would be better), then using the red rubber boot to insulate the cable lug and stud.

And BTW, 5-90, you inspired me 5+ years ago to upgrade my mains. I ran 1AWG red welder's cables from Battery+ to starter and PDC front post. And 1AWG black cable from Battery- to fender ground and engine block. Also 1AWG from engine head to firewall. I used Ox-Guard on the cable, then crimped on the lug, then wrapped it with self-sealing tape and finished it with adhesive heat-shrink.

Now the last thing to do is beef up the charging cable.

So thanks!
 
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