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i have the RC arms, and i can say that once i tightened the flex joints, i have had no problems with them. They have the bend in them for tire clearance when turning, and ground clearance. I will say though, that i would have been much happier if i wouldve saved a little more money and bought the t&t long arms with the belly skid.
I wouldn't drill any holes for the track bar, get the iron rock Offroad double sheer track bar, it allows ALOT of flex. Depending on lift height I'd consider some bilstein 7100 short bodied shocks.
Yea I wouldn't drill the mount. Thanks for the tip on the IRO bar, I have a double shear bar now but don't know the make or if it's for 5" of lift.
Any more info on those bilsteins? When I measure Out my lift (from various spots compared to a stock xj) its around 5"
Btw: that tire isn't catching air in that video it's on top of a root, here's the other angle of that video, my tire sandwiches the fender (back part by door molding) and uptravel stops (which is why you hear my friend say to cut my fenders, sorry if pic is huge I'm on my phone and it instantly scales down for me). Droop is definitely being held back just don't want OP to think I was 3-wheeling on that small obstacle
http://www.raceshock.com/Bilstein/bilstein7100.htm
Not sayin to shop here but thi gives you compressed and collapsed lengths, you'll want something that hits middle ground (ie 5 up 5 down) you don't want to fully max out your shocks in up travel, and you'll wan limit straps so you don't droop to much. At 5" I think you could get away with 12" short bodies 10" short bodies at the very least. I'm running a 4" lift with 8" 5150 shocks with bar pin eliminators on bottom and conversion kit on top which decreases your travel by almost 2" and I am maxing out my shock in up travel just barely. If I bump stop correctly I'll fix that.
360/80 is necessary for long arm, but I went 255/70 for my 5150's/short arms and it works out great!! With all the flex i have You would almost think I am already running long arms ;-)
I have had the rc long arm for about a year, all the flex joints failed, replaced with new joints and tightened till the spanner broke, and the new joints have slop again. Lr shock leaks pretty bad (2.2) , bar pin bushings have about 1/8th inch of play on the front shocks. Track bar heim joint also has excessive play, and clunks badly. Also , the drop pitman that came with the kit actually wore on the splines for the steering gear shaft, I know sounds impossible, but true. I mainly wheel light trails, and its my dd, but occassionally we do some rocks. Overall, kit performs well with new parts, both over time doesn't seem to hold up. Oh yeah, and I had to replace the rear leafs due to the eyelet bushings tearing out on both sides.
I also have Rough Country longarm (upgrade) and it has yet to give me any issues but if I were to do it again, I would but the same arms and save the extra money for Currie joints to swap on or get serious offroads longarm upgrade.
I dont personally run one, but i researched a lot before i went with my current 3 link/heim setup... The rough country seemed to be a great kit short of the mentioned joint problems... but i seem to remember Rough country was working on better joints, and I know for sure that they worked with anyone that had a problem in getting them replacements!!
I ran RC Control arm drops for a while.. and have had misc other pieces and bits and have always been satisfied
My only real beef would be a desire for a beefier track bar!!
