- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
OK, I have some preliminary data. I tested the oil temperature with 2 infrared sensors. One read about 10 degrees higher than the other. I also discovered that the readings were about 5 degrees higher if read at about 1/2 inch from the surface versus reading it say 6 to 8 inches from the surface. These readings were taken with the lower reading gauge at the 1/2" distance. Readings were taken in Park (P) at idle unless noted otherwise.
Oil Temp H2O Temp Oil Pressure Engine
F F PSI RPM
108 165 58 700
138 175 52 750
158 186 42 725
166 190 35 750
166 190 42 3000 (in P)
179 200 25 600 (in D)
179 200 42 2000 (in P)
187 198 31 750
187 198 39 2500 (in P)
187 198 25 600 (in D)
These tests were all in the driveway, no highway long drive data yet. Ambient was about 80 F. Oil under the valve cover right after turning the engine off was 194 F. I have a 165 F thermostat. Oil level was exactly at the full mark.
I ran into some real intersting data. Turns out my electric fan cuts on at about 175-180 F, and off at about 165 F. The water on the inlet of the radiator was reading about 200 F, but the coolant temperature on the cool side of the radiator at the fan temperature switch was running 165 to 180 F. The fan cut on at 175 to 180 F! Most of us have been under the impression that they are set at 220 F (other threads) because we were reading the other temperature gauge from the thermostat. Only makes sense that the water leaving the radiator to cool the engine (where the electric fan switch Temp sensor is located) must be cooler that the water leaving the engine, otherwise it would not cool the engine!
Also, I used the $10 infrared gauge and $25 infrared gauges (sale prices) from harbour tools. They are a great little tools for this work. The $25 one reads up to 480 F, the $10 one reads up to about 210 F max. I even got readings right at the engine/exhaust interface before it over ranged on me! Hell of a tool for finding hot spots and checking radiators, thermostats, etc.
Oil Temp H2O Temp Oil Pressure Engine
F F PSI RPM
108 165 58 700
138 175 52 750
158 186 42 725
166 190 35 750
166 190 42 3000 (in P)
179 200 25 600 (in D)
179 200 42 2000 (in P)
187 198 31 750
187 198 39 2500 (in P)
187 198 25 600 (in D)
These tests were all in the driveway, no highway long drive data yet. Ambient was about 80 F. Oil under the valve cover right after turning the engine off was 194 F. I have a 165 F thermostat. Oil level was exactly at the full mark.
I ran into some real intersting data. Turns out my electric fan cuts on at about 175-180 F, and off at about 165 F. The water on the inlet of the radiator was reading about 200 F, but the coolant temperature on the cool side of the radiator at the fan temperature switch was running 165 to 180 F. The fan cut on at 175 to 180 F! Most of us have been under the impression that they are set at 220 F (other threads) because we were reading the other temperature gauge from the thermostat. Only makes sense that the water leaving the radiator to cool the engine (where the electric fan switch Temp sensor is located) must be cooler that the water leaving the engine, otherwise it would not cool the engine!
Also, I used the $10 infrared gauge and $25 infrared gauges (sale prices) from harbour tools. They are a great little tools for this work. The $25 one reads up to 480 F, the $10 one reads up to about 210 F max. I even got readings right at the engine/exhaust interface before it over ranged on me! Hell of a tool for finding hot spots and checking radiators, thermostats, etc.
Last edited: