• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

A MUST read if you have elec. Gremlins!

boomhauer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Vancouver Island
Well, i was blowing the number 2, 20amp fuse in the PDC every single time i applied the brakes.
Full lights and signals till the brake pedal is tapped. Thought i had fixed said problem when i found some burnt wire along the rear seat over where the cat/muff would sit (hehe).
Anywho, worked again, no probs.
Then of course, it starts doing it again. I did all the "normal" tests, brake switch, trailer lighting/wiring, tail light bulbs/sockets, checking fuses and whatnot. Then i say fock this and start ripping into the under dash wiring and the wiring along the left side ahead of where i found the burnt stuff before. Well :doh: the tail light wires are so fried and melted that i had bare wire on the tail light wires from way up under the dash from where the wires come up from the brake switch all the way down the side past the B pillar.
As i start tearing into this mess i kept finding other wires that were scorched and chased one on up to the ignition switch as well.

Now that i'm right in the middle of this, all bad wire gone and about to re-wire the inside to a few connectors and fuse block, i can finally reveal what i deem to be the problem.

I had an alarm installed with a car starter (Python) and an immobilizer (mandatory back in Manitoba when i lived there.)
I'm the original owner of my 1996 Sport, picked her out myself! I know what's been done to the truck from day 1. The ONLY 2 items that i have not personally had a hand in were the alarm and immobilizer.
Used to be when i started the vehicle with the command start and pressed the brake, the vehicle WOULD/SHOULD shut off; part of the theft deterent built in. I moved out to Vancouver Island and never thought about fixing the car starter as long as the alarm worked now that i'm not in -38c plus windchill giving -45c + temps. BUT, the alarm would go off randomly for no apparent reason when armed, although it was usually night time and i'm in bed so i figure damn cat jumping on it or whatever.

So as I ripped out the immobilizer and car starter and while tracing the installations on these, they led to EVERY one of EVERY burnt wire i came across! I'm so lucky that i was never stranded or that my XJ was burnt to a crisp, because i would've needed a full-on Halon system to put out all the wiring that was burnt/melted/charred/open or just cracked from the heat of these pathetic systems and their installers.
The XJ is about 5lbs of wire and shitty black boxes lighter now.:wow:
I am going to wire in MY own theft deterrent and NO ONE will ever touch my rig again other than myself (frickin' gov't programs!)!

So if you blow fuses and weird sh!t is happening and you have these types of systems messing/splicing/re-wiring going on in your vehicle, take a good hard look at those as they MAY be your Gremlins too. -B
 
My favorite anti-theft device is the fuel pump cut-off switch discretely placed where I can flip it when entering or leaving the vehicle.
 
I'm the second owner of my Jeep, bought it from a coworker who had a Black Widow alarm installed with remote door lock key fob.

I have 'some' occasional electrical issues, but can't nail down if its from the alarm, or just usual XJ issues.

Occasionally, after turning off the XJ and exiting the Jeep I can't lock the doors with the key fob. The manual button on the drivers door won't work either. However, I can click the unlock button on the key fob, or manually click unlock on the drivers door and it activates the unlock. I can lock/unlock from the passenger door when that happens just fine.

I'll also lose dash input from time to time and 'no bus' will display in the odometer. If I jiggle/push/pull the head light switch it will come back to life.

So, not totally sure if its alarm related, or head light switch (multi function switch?) related.
 
Speaking of wiring problems. I've got a good one. I took apart the rear hatch panel the other day to fix the latch mechanism. I noticed that the rear wiper wasn't plugged in. The wiper hasn't worked since I bought it. I plugged the relay back in and the heater fan motor turned on, but the wiper wouldn't work. Not sure what that's all about. I guess I have another project to start.
 
I'm the second owner of my Jeep, bought it from a coworker who had a Black Widow alarm installed with remote door lock key fob.

I have 'some' occasional electrical issues, but can't nail down if its from the alarm, or just usual XJ issues.

Occasionally, after turning off the XJ and exiting the Jeep I can't lock the doors with the key fob. The manual button on the drivers door won't work either. However, I can click the unlock button on the key fob, or manually click unlock on the drivers door and it activates the unlock. I can lock/unlock from the passenger door when that happens just fine.

PHP:
I'll also lose dash input from time to time and 'no bus' will display in the odometer.  If I jiggle/push/pull the head light switch it will come back to life. 

So, not totally sure if its alarm related, or head light switch (multi function switch?) related.[/QUOTE]

I had the same problem with my head light switch and the bezel at the mounting location was broke out as well. I put a new light switch in and the problem was fixed. How ever, the broke mounting location was a little harder to fix.
Just a little note incase you don't know; the plunger button that allows you to pull the rod out of the switch for switch removal is located at the bottom of the switch. There is a hole in the bottom of the dash directly under it. pull the switch to the head light on position then reach through the hole and push the button while pulling the rod it should come right out, or NOT. I struggled with mine for quite some time.
 
I have a few weird bugs as well. I am the third owner of the vehicle. The previous owner was from AZ and they had a Silencer alarm installed. They also had a system that fried in there (i found out after taking a peak through everything). I tried to find this Silencer company to figure out how to uninstall to find out they are gone. Ill have to check over all the wires and try and take it out.
 
Shouldn't be too hard - most of the wiring on an alarm is spliced in (locks/lights/siren usually) so you can simply disconnect those again and reinsulate the stripped parts of the harness. The tough one is usually the ignition lockout, which is generally one or two wires (at least on the ones I've uninstalled.) I've seen them as simple as disconnecting all wires, removing the siren, and then reconnecting the yellow wire where it was cut and routed through a relay to disable start/ignition.
 
Back
Top