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97 xj Repair/Replace Rear Arches & Finish or Cover with QP Armor?

WGxj

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
MN
I am new to NAXJA. Have 97 xj 4 door sport. 7 years ago, upon removing rear flares and bumper, found PO had allowed significant rust to eat away back end lower portion of both rear quarter panels. Back then I did the Cut-N-Fold. Fabricated a sheet metal box to fit the hole created after cutting out all the rust. Fastened the metal box using a combination of existing cleaned up metal, MIG spot welds, and 3M structural adhesive. Box edge that contacts the wheel house was fabricated longer to lay over the inside of that portion of the Wheelhouse. Wire brushed inside of wheel house area, used 3M adhesive, in conjunction with pop rivets to pull the two panels together tight for curing. Left pop rivets installed, covered with adhesive under the wheelwell. Still sealed after 7 years.

At the time, my top priority was replacing the rockers. Used the 2x6 structural tubing idea found elsewhere. Totally sealed, stitch welded and plug welded into place. Turned out great. Patched the dog legs on each side. Did rust mitigation on the rear wheel arches.

But now I need to deal with the Rear Wheel Arch Rust and Re-do the dog legs. Its reached the pinch weld line at the top of each arch. I bought new rear quarter replacement panels. Now what?

1. Replace the whole Quarter Panel - both sides (this would take the jeep out of service for a while)

2. Replace only the portion of Quarter Panel compromised by rust (just the arch and dog leg)
(would take jeep out of service long enough to cut out just the rust and fasten in the repair piece)
Comment: I read elsewhere where a NAXJA poster created NUT STRIPS to facilitate attaching the Side Armor. I liked that idea.

But which option is better?

Doing option 2, I still have to prep, rust proof, and replaced metal. But if I plan on installing SIDE ARMOR, do I really need to finish the panel rust repair painting? I saw that Rusty's and or Rough Country Armor comes pre-finished whereas Dirtbound Offroad Armor comes bare metal.

Do I really need the Armor? I am not a heavy duty offroader. The only obstacles I might come in contact with are trail rocks and stumps in clear cuts. But after wasting time fooling around with the OEM rear flare mount design, I really like the idea of steel Flares. I also like the additional strength the Side Armor would provide. My thinking at this point is that I wouldn't have to cover the rear portion of the jeep with plastic to protect it against rust, metal grinding dust and paint over spray, to do the whole job all at once which would take more time. I would only need to take the jeep out of service long enough to cut the arch rust out, and then fix the hole with the new pre-cut repair pieces cut from the whole new QP.

In doing this repair, is there a Unibody integrity issue to consider by only replacing the arch portion of the quarter panel?
 
General auto body shops don't really want to mess with rust repair. If they have a guarantee, they want to be able to go as far as the rust takes them without limit to meet their guarantee. And if they don't guarantee the work, they imply going only as far as what they think was quoted, sufficient or not.

A bit more sleuthing and rummaging through my project notes from doing the cut=n=fold, I found an Eastwood catalog and just as I was reading through https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/rear-quarter-pannel-replacement-88418. Recalling how much work it took us to cut out my rocker panels all the way to the inner rockers and weld in structural tubing, I found the posters honest assessment of the work requirements more realistic than the vast majority of youtube submissions.

So I decided to do the Quarter Panel Rust Repair without replacing the whole dang quarter panel. All that needs replacing is the dog leg and arch. Planning to remove the rusty portions along the arch and complete dog leg. Clean, prep and MIG weld the repair panels cut from the full quarter panel replacement. I prefer to cover the jeep to protect it from steel chips and later paint over spray. Once welded in, will flush the welding, clean, prep, rustproof, and finish. Then I will plan to do the Armor installation (nicely referenced at NAXJA), primarily for the added strength and steel flares. Is anybody out there? Is everyone already in the bush offroadin? Does everyone agree?
 
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Repair vs. Restoration
Came across this resource: https://precisioncarrestoration.com/quarter-panel-repair-patch-it-skin-it-or-replace-it/
My comments: Repair/rust panels for now are fairly plentiful for the jeep xj's 97-01 series.

To size the rust panel to be a little higher than the top edge of any potential Side Armor installation seems at this point a reasonable option. Upon later installing the Side Armor, the additional bolt/nut strip arrangement only helps to strengthen the overall result.

My previous rocker panel and cut-n-fold work didn't expose hidden rust higher up in the quarter panel area nor did replacing the stock glass with privacy glass expose any compromised steel around the cargo area window. Any surface rust discovered was remediated then. What I did discover, as I believe is commonly mentioned, is where the Wheel House Panel meets the Quarter Panel, we see the OEM pinch welds around the outside along the Wheel Arch. But less talked about is the OEM panel adhesive used during assembly to complete the attachment. As everyone likely knows, on these old vehicles, that stuff has broken down, leaving gaps for moisture migration. Wherever I was able to remove that stuff the first time around, I did. This time by opening up the cavity from the outside, I will have much better access to clean that up completely. I knew this would occur. Now I need to fix it.

Are there any trade offs anyone would like to expand upon?
 
This paint and body subforum doesn't seem to get much traffic, many of the posts are years old. It is semi hidden (not incredibly easy to find) which doesn't help.

If you are talking about the "armor" that fits atop/over the fenders/quarters, I'm not a fan. Will they help protect from impact in extreme offroad situations? Probably..but they very likely hold water/moisture between them and the original panels which will likely cause rot over time much more severe than if they were not there. I do not like them, bolt on fender flares, molding, trim or anything else that traps water/moisture for that reason. Too many vehicles I have seen that would have been nearly perfect if the items described above did not trap water/moisture and cause rot. The exposed flats of the panels were completely rust free.

Not a huge deal when these vehicles were everywhere for dirt cheap and basically disposable, but they nor anything like them (relatively low cost, low tech/simple, rugged, reliable, straight axle 4x4 SUV) are ever going to be made again (.gov safety and environmental regulations won't allow it for one); and pricing on surviving examples is astronomical thanks to people like Davis Motorsports snatching them up for next to nothing, slapping some bolt on parts, doing a cheap repaint and jacking the price into the stratosphere. Personally I'd rather see someone build a buggy from scratch to beat to hell.
 
Thank you DirtySouthXJ for your insight. Not having done the Armor before, all I had were questions. I still have a hard time understanding why someone would want to drill holes through their front fenders and/or rear quarter panels, particularly for the same reason you cited: Moisture, water migration into the inner quarter panel cavity.

I do get the impression that my off-road enthusiasm might have to be tempered if my goal is to keep the integrity of my end of the life cycle 97-01 Cherokee functionally sound. The reason Side Armor seemed attractive was for the steel flares. I understand MN State Statute requires flares to extend outward from the vehicle to the outer edge of the tire. Reviews of other flare options that use adhesive strips seemed unreliable over time. And some still required drilling holes. Most aren't designed to accommodate cut-n-fold rear ends. And although the Armor would seem to provide greater strength, I haven't seen any collision/impact examples to prove it other than the positive comments by rock crawlers on the jeep forums.

Again thank you for the insight. Time to hunker down and replace the panels one side at a time.
Inch by inch everything is a cinch.
 
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