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97 water pump inlet tube....

heaterhose2.jpg


You could use something like that instead of the vacuum actuated heater valve.

I suppose only one would be necessary in the input line for the heater core leaving the return line open but if you wanted you could add one to the input and return lines. That's probably what I'd do due to me being anal about stuff.
 
Since you're still a noob, I'll cut you some slack. Next time you rant, don't pretend to make it a PSA. You were the one making wrong assumptions. Now either grow up or develop some skills (preferably both).

BTW: Rant on if you wish. I'm done with this thread.


:rattle:My name is Saudade... I have to call other people noob to make myself feel good... Never mind the fact that I make useless posts on other people's thread to increase my post count so I don't look like a noob.....


Dum azz!
 
That's funny. I too have a 97 XJ and I just did the water pump, as it was original and leaking at the weep holes after 133K miles. My inlet tube came out with no problem, lucky for me. However, I decided it had enough rust that I would replace it. The new OEM part was about $13.

The part should definitely come with the pump. For anyone's future reference, I got a brand new pump from NAPA for $40. Everything is great so far.
 
heaterhose2.jpg


You could use something like that instead of the vacuum actuated heater valve.

I suppose only one would be necessary in the input line for the heater core leaving the return line open but if you wanted you could add one to the input and return lines. That's probably what I'd do due to me being anal about stuff.

Yah, but I'd sooner use a quarter-turn valve that I could run a cable to, instead of a valve like that that I'd have to remember to open the hood and open or close. Easier to just sit in the left seat, go "Oh, yeah!" and pull a control cable methinks...
 
Yah, but I'd sooner use a quarter-turn valve that I could run a cable to, instead of a valve like that that I'd have to remember to open the hood and open or close. Easier to just sit in the left seat, go "Oh, yeah!" and pull a control cable methinks...

I have an image in my head of the interior of your jeep looking like some hybrid airplane cockpit with switches and pull handles and a bunch of manual controls for all of your gadgetry... :D
 
I dont get why they used Red lock tight on it, its just a water pipe why the need for strong thread locker. Mine was rusted and in bad shape so I replaced it but the dealer did have it on hand so maybe I was lucky.
 
I have an image in my head of the interior of your jeep looking like some hybrid airplane cockpit with switches and pull handles and a bunch of manual controls for all of your gadgetry... :D

How'd you know I was working toward that?

I've got a few "sacrificial" instrument panels, I plan to do some redesign work to replace some of the ancillary gage with aircraft gages (I happen to like them, and have a few sources for inexpensive ones.) I also want to do a fibreglas layup for an "eyebrow" shelf/housing to mount a few extra goodies, a switch panel, and eventually a few other things as well (put in a couple of DIN radio mounts and the like) - but I'm not sure about that, I have limited experience with fibreglas so far.

As far as the pipe nipple, I don't know why they'd use LocTite on it either. Use plumber's PTFE/Teflon pipe dope, and you're good (it's the only thing I've ever used.) Tighten to 1/2-2/3 turn past finger tight.
 
Well, Here what I came up with to solve the problem... (by the way, problem turned out to be that the last person that changed the pump had cross-threaded the inlet tube which was why it was SO hard to get off... But I didn't try parking a car on top of it... LOL) Well now I have a $10 elbow hose that I can get locally instead of a $10 order only part... And since it's flexible, it makes getting the pump in and out much easier!

l_6a1ed8c80c6045ea95e35c8506944266.jpg
 
Yea, I was actually considering re-using the tube, but as you can see by the threads on it in the photo, there there was just no way. Even trying would have just screwed up the threads on my new pump. If I was able to get a new tube locally, I would have, I could not order one and have to wait for it, I had to get back on the road. I think the solution I came up with worked better than I even expected. I kept it as clean as possible, and having the coupler where it is makes for a very easy install and removal. I would replace the elbow with a brand new one every time I replace the pump since I wouldn't want to have to try to unclamp it from the pump while the pump is installed (I have not looked to see how hard it would be to get to that clamp, but I don't want to know! LOL) And what a PITA it would be to have to remove the pump just to replace that hose!!! Getting the brackets all lined back up upon re-installation was a nightmare! UGH!
 
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