• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

96 XJ High idle in park/neutral some times

If I had a mechanic tell me that I would find a new one., why I don't have a mechanic. A new one won't work as good as a bad one ? WTF is that..

Sensors like that, oem dealer parts are worth the extra dollars. My best tps , that has lasted the longest is from a the dealer, as much as it kills me to say go to dealer. :puke:

My mechanic is the best one around. He's at least 60 years old, he's a pilot, he used to build race cars, he has been a mechanic his entire life. The man has tons of experience and tricks up his sleeve. I suppose he's experienced issues with replacement parts before.

I wouldn't have thought to go to a dealership for parts for an eighteen year old jeep. Good idea, but the closest dealership to me would be about an hour drive one way across mountains.

I ordered the part today from the local parts store. They didn't give me any options on different brands so I assume that only one brand was available.

I'm going to remove the TB and clean it up a little better before I put the new IAC in. The guys who change my oil agreed to let me clean it at their garage so they can torque the bolts for me. It's good to live in a small town and have connections.
 
I'll make a short list for you; Things that can screw up an IAC are, solids stuck behind the piston. I periodically let a few drops of synthetic oil run behind the piston. Gunk (sticky stuff on the piston or around the seat) Penetrating oil and a small brush will usually take care of that, maybe scrape a little with a piece of plastic.

Low voltage, battery or charging issues often show up first as IAC quirks. I don't know why, but it has happened enough times I know it is so.

You always have to be suspicious of grounds and connectors. The low voltage issues may be because of grounds or poor connections. Maybe just enough of a ground or connection issues to affect the IAC and not other functions.

Just because you swapped out the TPS, doesn't ,mean the issue isn't in the wiring or connector or even the grounds. People get in the habit of swapping out components and forget about the wiring.

I've had good luck scrubbing out the connector pins with a good quality contact cleaner and a tiny scrub brush normally used for brushing between your teeth. Grounds get cleaned with a wire brush or even sand paper and the connection gets tested with an ohm meter. The ground rings are sometimes soldered on, sometimes not, the resistance can be in the crimp at the ground ring.

I've never tried it on an OBD XJ, but on the Renix you can warm up the motor until you get a normal idle and disconnect the IAC. The only time it should cause an issue is at cold start up when the engine normally idles high and it is likely the CEL will come on. There may not even be an IAC CEL code, I'd have to look it up to be sure.

When it idles up may be a tip off. Cold start, Hot start, right after you released the gas pedal, RPM's that kind of spike or rise with a constant pedal? etc.

Is it possible it is a mechanical issue? Broken throttle plate return spring? Which is hard to see. Loose throttle plate? You may want to poke the throttle plate with your finger and see how hard or easy it moves. I seem to recall the throttle plate is hard to move with your finger tip, even with the throttle cable removed. Check out your carpet, padding or wiring or whatever right near the pedal.

Make sure you aren't accidentally pushing the gas pedal when you brake. Sounds silly, but I've done it. I'm 6'3" and wear a size 13 hiking boot. By the time i spread my legs enough to clear the steering wheel, I tend to brake with the ball of my right foot on the extreme right of the brake pedal (I brake and gas with the same right foot and not two footed). It is easy to brake an inch to the right and spread my right knee a little to far right and contact the brake pedal and gas pedal at the same time when I brake. I mostly cured this by buying a 71 Chev truck (I think) brake pedal rubber which is an inch wider that the XJ, but fits just fine and makes it much harder for me to slip and push the brake and gas pedal at the same time. I have actually jammed my boot sideways under the brake pedal and on the gas pedal, while turning around to look over my right shoulder when backing up. This may be irrelevant, but I figure if it has happened to me more than a few times, it has likely happened to somebody else also sometime.
 
Just curious if ya found a solution ?

Well, since you asked. I was going to wait on a final word before I posted it here but I will go ahead. I'm a little embarrassed that I was too stubborn to even try fixing what was wrong because it didn't make sense to me as a solution.

I'll go back to last Friday. I put on a new IAC as recommended by my mechanic. It didn't help the idle. I don't know if it had anything to do with the new IAC, but my torque converter started working! The more I drove it over the weekend, the better the torque converter worked. During a twelve hour shift delivering pizza on Sunday it started working perfectly and has worked perfectly since.

Wednesday came along and brought with it single digit temperatures. While driving at work Wednesday night, the headlights and dash lights started getting quite dim, the GEN light came on, and the volt meter on the dash was at the top of the red. Seeing as how it was around three degrees Fahrenheit this morning and it barely got out of the teens today, I decided that it was going to the garage instead of trying to fix it myself.

I dropped it off and came back by just in time to watch my mechanic squirt some ether around. Intake manifold, back past the TB, around the next to last bolt, the ether choked it down. Sure enough, a couple of the manifold bolts were really loose and I had a vacuum leak. I asked my mechanic why it didn't idle high all the time. He explained that I had a constant vacuum leak and the IAC was adjusting to compensate for it. He said it would idle just fine until everything got really hot and caused too big of a leak for the IAC to be able compensate for it. It makes sense now and I have learned a couple of lessons.

He said the gasket wasn't blown out and hopefully didn't need to be replaced. I won't know for sure until he gets a new alternator it and test drives it. I will find out in the morning.

Thanks again to everyone for helping. :party:
 
Good deal ! Common problem with our manifold setup. IAC compensating makes sense. Only rig I have owned that manifold bolts come loose, usually you can't get manifold bolts off. As I said earlier I suspect the steel/aluminum have different expansion rates.

Just
Empty
Every
Pocket
 
Just picked up the XJ and it runs great. The new alternator coated me $130 and I was charged $50 for the labor. Well worth it. The RPMs are at 800 all the time now with no fluctuation whatsoever. I couldn't be happier.
 
Just picked up the XJ and it runs great. The new alternator coated me $130 and I was charged $50 for the labor. Well worth it. The RPMs are at 800 all the time now with no fluctuation whatsoever. I couldn't be happier.

FML! Where do you live? Here in So. Cal. It cost me 50 bucks labor just to throw a code reader on and clear a code on my Duramax diesel at an independent shop....

Glad to hear your back up and running...
 
My mechanic is the best one around. He's at least 60 years old, he's a pilot, he used to build race cars, he has been a mechanic his entire life. The man has tons of experience and tricks up his sleeve.



No offense man but with the symptoms you describe in your first post the second thing he should have checked for is vacuum leaks. The first thing would be put a scanner on it and look for code history or current codes.

Just because someone has been doing something their whole life does not mean they're good at it.\

My profession is full of guys with decades of experience. Some are excellent at it and others make you wonder how in the world they kept their job for that long.

Not knocking your mechanic, everyone overlooks simple things from time to time.

Very glad you got it fixed!
 
No offense man but with the symptoms you describe in your first post the second thing he should have checked for is vacuum leaks. The first thing would be put a scanner on it and look for code history or current codes.

Just because someone has been doing something their whole life does not mean they're good at it.\

My profession is full of guys with decades of experience. Some are excellent at it and others make you wonder how in the world they kept their job for that long.

Not knocking your mechanic, everyone overlooks simple things from time to time.

Very glad you got it fixed!

My mechanic knows his stuff. I didn't have him look at it at first. I just stopped by the shop and asked for advice based on what I could describe about the problem. I bought the XJ from him which makes it a little awkward to go to him for help. He fixed a couple of things for free and I don't want him to feel like I'm coming by expecting favors because I bought it from him. Trouble is I don't know who else to trust.
 
Back
Top