- Location
- In a strange land
Yes, but on earlier models there is a return line to allow that pressure to go back to the tank.
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96 4.0L running at 180F after radiator replacement...want it higher.
- Thread starter gearwhine
- Start date
gearwhine
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Denver, CO
OK...this has become fun. Had a friend help me run around the engine. Still nothing.
Removed in-line check valve in fuel line. No change, as expected.
Fuel pressure is great, Appears like strong blue spark at all plugs, coolant sensor in housing is receiving voltage and working (can't guarantee correctly, but the old and new show resistance lowering with heat applied). All grounds that I can locate are solid and tight. Vacuum lines are all in tact.
If I leave ignition on, but let it sit...the throttle body kind of randomly cycles/clicks a few times, then stops, then does it again a few minutes later. I am not sure if that's normal. I never noticed it before.
I have a new camshaft position sensor/distributor pick-up to plop in today. I'm thinking timing could have turned bad (hence bad mileage), and then finally failed....totally unrelated to everything else spoke about. Also have a crankshaft position sensor I've been holding on to for safe keeping....that might get swapped out as a 2nd step if required.
Removed in-line check valve in fuel line. No change, as expected.
Fuel pressure is great, Appears like strong blue spark at all plugs, coolant sensor in housing is receiving voltage and working (can't guarantee correctly, but the old and new show resistance lowering with heat applied). All grounds that I can locate are solid and tight. Vacuum lines are all in tact.
If I leave ignition on, but let it sit...the throttle body kind of randomly cycles/clicks a few times, then stops, then does it again a few minutes later. I am not sure if that's normal. I never noticed it before.
I have a new camshaft position sensor/distributor pick-up to plop in today. I'm thinking timing could have turned bad (hence bad mileage), and then finally failed....totally unrelated to everything else spoke about. Also have a crankshaft position sensor I've been holding on to for safe keeping....that might get swapped out as a 2nd step if required.
- Location
- In a strange land
Noid light to see if injectors are being told to fire?
gearwhine
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Denver, CO
So...I kind of hate everything...but I'm happy about that.
I changed out the camshaft position sensor and kept the new coolant temp sensor in it. Still no change.
My father came over, who has a lot of experience from his younger years. He noticed a slight difference in starting sound when the ignition wire was hooked to the distributor, and when it was not. He could tell it was trying to start; I could barely discern the sound difference.
He very simply WFO'd it for a few seconds while starting (I gave it gas before, but never fully open for that long), and it started right up. Now it's running great, starts up every time (cold or hot), and the computer is reading 195-200F from the sensor instead of 180F like before (read off my diagnostic tool).
Does anyone have any other ideas on what may have caused this issue? It's strange that it was a one time start deal, and now there are no apparent issues. I am going to swap in the old camshaft sensor and see if that changes anything just to help me diagnose what might have been wrong, but I have a feeling it was something in the throttle body (or sensors).
I feel like kind of a fool....
I changed out the camshaft position sensor and kept the new coolant temp sensor in it. Still no change.
My father came over, who has a lot of experience from his younger years. He noticed a slight difference in starting sound when the ignition wire was hooked to the distributor, and when it was not. He could tell it was trying to start; I could barely discern the sound difference.
He very simply WFO'd it for a few seconds while starting (I gave it gas before, but never fully open for that long), and it started right up. Now it's running great, starts up every time (cold or hot), and the computer is reading 195-200F from the sensor instead of 180F like before (read off my diagnostic tool).
Does anyone have any other ideas on what may have caused this issue? It's strange that it was a one time start deal, and now there are no apparent issues. I am going to swap in the old camshaft sensor and see if that changes anything just to help me diagnose what might have been wrong, but I have a feeling it was something in the throttle body (or sensors).
I feel like kind of a fool....