• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

88 comanche and a M90 blower awd build.

I think it puts the top hat in a good position to cross over the valve cover. If i were to make my own top hat, I would put smaller spacers to lower it a lot more.
 
Found me a belt that was the right size. Got it on and started it up to see what things sounded/ looked like in motion. I took a video, check it out

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8h6y323EdMM

Btw I am in the middle of a muffler swap so it is straight piped in the video. Notice how with the large injectors the idle is so choppy, it sounds like a cammed v8.
 
Last edited:
I was able to get my hood to close after some trimming.

20150226_165153_zps474l8zpm.jpg

20150226_170004_zpss3zh9rjv.jpg


I ordered some cheap ebay silicone to try and mock up some simple plumbing. This may be temporary but for now will work well.

20150303_180056_zpsvavrrzxv.jpg

20150303_180109_zpsgag7jsud.jpg


Got 2 out of 3 gauges installed. Still waiting on AEM wide-band in the mail.

20150228_133439_zpssrjaw4by.jpg

20150228_133434_zpsnfquury2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Wideband installed and 93 in the tank. those 32lb injectors were too big so I took them out.. I went to some ford 4 hole yellow injectors because I had them laying around and the stock ones were leaking at the body. I installed a vortech FMU with the 12:1 disk.

I drove it and the AFR under boost is decent. It stays in the mid 11s for the most part with a rare spike to 12.1. My boost guage will hit 5psi max. It feels like it gained some decent amount of power. I can spin one tire through my open diff well into 3rd gear. The Bypass valve is reacting instantaneous when I let off the throttle, like a BOV. It even sounds like one! I got back after my drive and already found a boost leak at the throttle body gasket so it still needs some tweaking. I want to try some ford 24lb blues so I can go down a disk or two on the FMU. (fuel gauge reading 70+psi at rail under boost.)

However Now that I have my wideband installed I notice the jeep is running too rich at idle and cruise. I think its a sensor or exhaust leak. Im only running 19 lb injectors so I should have a normal AFR when not in boost. The 32lb injectors may work once I get the rich idle problem fixed. Going to try and get it running right at idle and cruise first before I continue anymore with the supercharger side of things.

I have more pictures to upload and maybe a video.
 
Last edited:
embs2001 said:
Wideband installed and 93 in the tank. those 32lb injectors were too big so I took them out.. I went to some ford 4 hole yellow injectors because I had them laying around and the stock ones were leaking at the body. I installed a vortech FMU with the 12:1 disk.

I drove it and the AFR under boost is decent. It stays in the mid 11s for the most part with a rare spike to 12.1. My boost guage will hit 5psi max. It feels like it gained some decent amount of power. I can spin one tire through my open diff well into 3rd gear. The Bypass valve is reacting instantaneous when I let off the throttle, like a BOV. It even sounds like one! I got back after my drive and already found a boost leak at the throttle body gasket so it still needs some tweaking. I want to try some ford 24lb blues so I can go down a disk or two on the FMU. (fuel gauge reading 70+psi at rail under boost.)

However Now that I have my wideband installed I notice the jeep is running too rich at idle and cruise. I think its a sensor or exhaust leak. Im only running 19 lb injectors so I should have a normal AFR when not in boost. The 32lb injectors may work once I get the rich idle problem fixed. Going to try and get it running right at idle and cruise first before I continue anymore with the supercharger side of things.

I have more pictures to upload and maybe a video.
Click to expand...

What's the fuel pressure at idle?
 
30 with fpr vacuum 40 without and holds for a long time when engine is killed

Im pretty sure im having your "typical renix issues."
 
Last edited:
I have a few suspicions:
I founding a missing header bolt most forward on the head so possible exhaust leak.
Possible ground issue with renix 02 sensor.
Map voltage at idle too high/ or low vacuum?
All the soot left behind from 32lbers throwing wideband off?
Ford yellows sticking open?


I need to get a analog volt meter to make sure my new bosch o2 is doing what it is supposed to.
I'm going to hook up the wideband on my wrangler to make sure I don't have a dudd gauge or sensor.
 
I don't see why you can't use a little bit bigger injector than stock and then rely on a 6:1 or 12:1 FMU to add more fuel.
That's what I did on my Miata with an M45.
 
That is the plan. I might try ford 24lbers next. I just had the yellows on the shelf and it was not running good with the 32lbers.
However the 32lb were used in my LS1 so i'm not sure if they will ever work. I wasn't sure if the renix system can pull that much fuel at idle and assumed that was the cause of my rich idle. Now I realize it is still a problem with stock sized injectors. Once i figure out this rich idle issue, the 32lb may work.

If I can find some ford supercoupe 30lb I think that will be best. That way I can use a smaller disk and rely less on raised fuel pressure. I have a 10:1, 8:1, 7:1, 6:1, and 4:1 disk also.
 
Last edited:
Cruiser, in your opinion, should I let the renix MAP sensor see the boost or should I add a check valve. Im not sure if boost=higher voltage= more fuel. Or boost= voltage all over the place. I also though about using a map adjuster like the stroker guys to generally add a little more fuel across the board. Again, I would feel better using a smaller disk in the FMU. The final recipe may look like: 30lb injectors, map adjuster set at higher than stock voltage, and FMU with 4:1 disk.
 
Last edited:
Personally, after doing a first generation Miata with an ECU not unlike the Renix XJ, I would stick with as small an injector as I could to avoid over-richness at idle, and use a 6:1 AFPR to add fuel under boost.
 
Update:

My stock renix head had a Exhaust bolt broken off in the head. I wanted to install a Pacesetter header so I went to the junk yard and grabbed a 7120. Used a victor HG got a 2000 intake manifold and throttle body.

Put it all back together with the new header/head/TB/Intakemani and tested it out today. Still at about 5lbs of boost. Still NO traction with this open diff in 1st or 2nd. 3rd gear hooks up good and its a pretty surprising difference how quick it moves over stock.

The blower is making a slight chatter at idle so im going to take it off for now and put on a AC bypass pully untill I can send the blower off to be rebuilt. When the roads dry off I may post a video before I pull the blower back off

In the meanwhile im gonna figure out what I want to do with the rear end. Ford 8.8 or another dana 35 with posi. Im split between a 3.55, 3.73, and 4.10 gear. I'm worried the 4.10 gear will make first gear useless. Well Im worried any shorter rear end gear will make first gear useless. Hell, it may already be useless and I should start in 2nd.
Also gonna work on lowering it a little just a little in the front and level out the rear.
Let me know what you think!

20150419_172816_zpsld8qvfji.jpg
 
embs2001 said:
In the meanwhile im gonna figure out what I want to do with the rear end. Ford 8.8 or another dana 35 with posi. Im split between a 3.55, 3.73, and 4.10 gear. I'm worried the 4.10 gear will make first gear useless. Well Im worried any shorter rear end gear will make first gear useless. Hell, it may already be useless and I should start in 2nd.
Also gonna work on lowering it a little just a little in the front and level out the rear.
Let me know what you think!
Click to expand...

I have 4.56 on 32" tires in my MJ with the AW4 automatic around 270 horsepower. I wish I had 3.73 or 4.10. 4.10 would let me cruise around 65 MPH and still keep reasonable towing power. 3.73 would be the best for mine to cruise comfortably at 70 MPH and not guzzle gas.
 
Alexia said:
I have 4.56 on 32" tires in my MJ with the AW4 automatic around 270 horsepower. I wish I had 3.73 or 4.10. 4.10 would let me cruise around 65 MPH and still keep reasonable towing power. 3.73 would be the best for mine to cruise comfortably at 70 MPH and not guzzle gas.
Click to expand...

Toss some 35's on it and you should be good (=
 
Alexia said:
I have 4.56 on 32" tires in my MJ with the AW4 automatic around 270 horsepower. I wish I had 3.73 or 4.10. 4.10 would let me cruise around 65 MPH and still keep reasonable towing power. 3.73 would be the best for mine to cruise comfortably at 70 MPH and not guzzle gas.
Click to expand...


4.56 and 32's is usually a pretty comfortable ratio for the 4.0.

What have you done to get 270 horses and make it dislike the RPM?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top