6.5" lift with no SYE

[TRAILREADYXJ]

My $.02

I am at about 6" with no SYE. I have replaced my D35 with a 8.25. The shaft for the D35 is a little longer than the 8.25. This put the slip yolk in the right spot for no vibes or binding (proper bumpstops a must). I also added a 1" T-case drop.
Every XJ is different, the earlier models are less likely to have vibes due to the type of slip yolk they use. Later models changed to an "exterior" slip yolk, if you have one of these, prepare for a SYE, may even need it at 3".
Also remember if you lift it and plan to add a SYE later, you will need to change your rear pinion angle. With a SYE the pinion should point directly at the DS (or slightly below to allow for axle wrap). With no SYE it needs to be parallel with the slip yolk.

 

[Roads]

My $.02

With a SYE the pinion should point directly at the DS (or slightly below to allow for axle wrap). With no SYE it needs to be parallel with the slip yolk.

Why can't you point the pinion right at the slip yoke? That would decrease the angle at the axle and make the DS longer by cutting down the angles.

 

[53guy]

you can do anything with your vehicle....however, it may or may not be good for it. Yes, you can just point the yoke at the output shaft, but that is not condusive for U-joint life or strength. U-joints are designed to rotate in an oval instead of a perfect circle, causing the needle bearings inside to rotate and do their job. If you pointed the yoke at the output shaft, you will make the u-joint travel in a perfect circle (which if it is not a brand new u-joint would cause it to vibe because the bearings are already worn in the old position).
That being said, lets talk driveshafts. If you kept your stock rear drive shaft, you will have 2 U-joints in it and NOT a double cardian set up (or CV style whichever you choose). With that sort of drive shaft, your angles would need to be the same at the output shaft as it is at the diff. Meaning that it would form a side of a trapazoid with the angles. Now, like you asked, why couldn't you just rotate the yoke up? Because that would change your joint angles making them what they would need to be for a double cardian set up. A double cardian set up requires the diff to be pointed roughly at the output shaft because it has that extra u-joint on the transfer case side. And even then, you need the yoke to be about 2 degrees down to allow the joint to travel in an oval instead of a circle.
So pretty much, if you canged your yoke angle with out changing your driveshaft set up, it would be the wrong angles for your driveshaft causing vibes out the wazoo. Hope this helps.

P.s. I run 6in and 35's with AA's sye and woody drive shaft with a 2.5 degree shim. no vibes what-so-ever all the way up to about 105 mph or so. The sye cost 200 and the shaft another 350, both way way way too easy to install. My suggestion is to just get the SYE and save yourself the headache of problems down the road.

 

[TRAILREADYXJ]

You will get vibes due to the elliptical path a u-joint follows when at an angle. When using a SYE you generally use a cardon joint at the output (stupid not to). These joints are designed without elliptical rotation, therefore you point the pinion directly at it so the driveshaft will rotate straight. If you're not using a cardon joint the angles need to be parallel so the elliptical rotations at each end cancel each other and the shaft rotates straight.

(53guy beat me to it!)

 

[Roads]

Well I have once again changed my mind on my setup, though not very much. I'm pretty sure it's come down to the point of fine tuning the kit I want. I saw this one http://4wheelparts.com/4wp/products...arentProdline=SUSJeepSuspensionRE&expand=sub1 (click on the RE6130 pic) and liked that it came with adjustable lca's. The only thing I wish it had is the CA drop kit which brings me to my next question. With a 4.5" suspension lift + 2" ACOS lift would it be important to get lca drop brackets? Also will my articulation be a little funny because of the 2"s of spacer and only 4.5"s of lift? And lastly, do you think this is overkill for 33x12.50's and should maby downgrade that kit to a 3.5" suspension + 2" ACOS? And no I am not giving up my ACOS unless absolutely nececesary.

 

[53guy]

You will get vibes due to the elliptical path a u-joint follows when at an angle. When using a SYE you generally use a cardon joint at the output (stupid not to). These joints are designed without elliptical rotation, therefore you point the pinion directly at it so the driveshaft will rotate straight. If you're not using a cardon joint the angles need to be parallel so the elliptical rotations at each end cancel each other and the shaft rotates straight.

(53guy beat me to it!)

=) I'm' sorry! you just type too slow! no, seriously, good advice, probably easier to undersand than my rambling.

well, I wouldnt say it's over kill, because you will have very little rubbing issues, however, its all depending on what you like to do and if you are pleased with how your rig looks. just go to the picture showcase and ask to see picts of people with your height and desired tires and then you can get an idea. I'm running 35's and 6inches and i rub a bit, but i haven't trimmed at all and its ok. so I guess its all in the kit and the owner to decide what tires to run. I personally think that the 33's look really short and squaty and I just don't personally like them, but you might like them.

 

[Yucca-Man]

I saw this one http://4wheelparts.com/4wp/products...arentProdline=SUSJeepSuspensionRE&expand=sub1 (click on the RE6130 pic) and liked that it came with adjustable lca's. The only thing I wish it had is the CA drop kit which brings me to my next question. With a 4.5" suspension lift + 2" ACOS lift would it be important to get lca drop brackets? Also will my articulation be a little funny because of the 2"s of spacer and only 4.5"s of lift? And lastly, do you think this is overkill for 33x12.50's and should maby downgrade that kit to a 3.5" suspension + 2" ACOS? And no I am not giving up my ACOS unless absolutely nececesary.

Ugh - 4Wheel Parts...

Anyway, you don't have to settle for what's on the parts list from RE when ordering anything. I swapped the fixed LCAs for Adjustables when I ordered, along with the HD Trackbar and mount. They simply charge you the difference, any vendor can do that for you and there are several members who sell RE.

The DBs are definitely a good investment with 4-6" lift that you're talking about; they flatten the control arm angles so you get a much more comfortable ride and a more neutral starting position for the arms when they start to flex.

I'm not sure I'd 'downgrade' to the 3.5" at all, but would recommend upgrading the 4.5" instead.

 

[Roads]

Ugh - 4Wheel Parts...

Why ugh 4 wheel parts? I can get the RE kit I want from them slightly cheaper than through RE themselves but with no shipping cost.