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ROKRWLR

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Arvada, CO
So.... This weekend I had some major engine trouble on Carnage (again). Until about 10 minutes ago, I though my motor was frozen and done. Here's what happened and what I know so far....

I was in the V Notch on my passenger side for probably too long and after a while of trying to work the Jeep out of the notch, the motor died on me. It did restart but died after a few seconds. It restarted maybe 1 or 2 more times (still on my side) and died quickly each time. While still laying in the notch, we thought maybe it was hydro locked, so I pulled the coil packs and plugs to clear out whatever might be in there, but the plugs were dry. The motor would not crank even with the plugs out. We gave the starter some whacks with a hammer and it cranked maybe 1/2" of belt movement at a try. I tried hand cranking the motor from the flywheel bolt (plugs still out), but all it did was keep tightening the bolt further but not moving the pulley at all. We checked the oil at the dipstick and it still looked clean, no shiny tell tale sign of bearing damage or milkyness sign of head trouble. I didn't think it over heated, neither the temp or oil pressure aftermarket warning lights came on during the struggle.

So, after this, I threw the plugs and coil packs back on and Toby and his pack of trail saviors winched me back down the waterfall to level ground. THANK YOU ROCK RASH GUYS, AGAIN! At this point I was hoping it was either battery or starter issue and not a seized motor, but the outlook wasn't looking good. I was still doing some dead motor winching during the extraction form the notch and also winched a wrangler with a blown tranny off the waterfall from my new resting spot. Seemed like the batteries were still providing a lot of current (2 new Optima yellow tops). We tried jump starting mine from the broken but running wrangler. At this point, my Jeep had been sitting for at least an hour or so cooling off. The jump start turned the motor about 1/2 revolution then stopped again and stopped moving the crank more than a tiny bit each try. Seemed like it was seized, so eventually we drug it back down to the entrance and winched it up on the trailer.

Now, fast forward a couple days. I now have a chain winch anchor bolted to my garage floor and I hand winched it with a come along uphill off the trailer and into its garage spot yesterday, gave it a try and still no cranking over. I put the battery charger on it this morning to charge the batteries back up after all the dead winching, the optima charger said I the batteries were 25% when it started up. I just went out for another fruitless attempt at starting it and the first crank attempt actually turned over what seemed like a full rotation then stopped again. That was surprising, so I tried again and got a little more movement, then went back to the tiny bit of movement on each try. I have a push button start, so I started rapidly tapping the start button trying to get it to crank more, then I must have passed the hard spot, and I got about 10 seconds of what sounded like very labored cranking until it started trying to fire. A few more seconds of cranking ant it started sputtering to life!

It actually started and was running pretty rough for a few seconds then came to an idle. It sounded like it was trying to clean itself out, but not a lot of smoking like you would think would be there if it were bogged down with oil. It idles "decent" and steady, but doesn't sound great. It isn't making any clanking or ticking, but sounds like there is a cylinder not firing, however after letting it run for a minute or two, I don't have any misfire error codes? I shut it down, then a few minutes later tried again and it fires right up with no hesitation, just the missing cylinder sound to it. One thing I do see is that the oil pressure is much higher than what it was out on the trail. I was seeing a little over 20 psi when sitting idling on the trail on my (cheap Jegs) aftermarket gauge and today after it fire, idling in the garage, it was up at 60, then came down to 50 after a bit. Seems higher than it ran before. I think it was heating up faster than before, but don't know if that's just my mind playing tricks on me because of the issues I had. After running for about 5 minutes, It was still not hot enough to kick the fans on yet.

So I guess I have a few questions.

1: Does anyone know a way to test for spark when you have the distributor-less ignition with the coil-packs all on a single rail? I'm not sure if this is a spark or compression issue, but there's not any smoke when running.
2: Any ideas on what I may have done to the poor motor and what I should start looking for? Could the shitty 00-01 head have been an issue here?
3: With so much electronics, could this be a crank or cam or other sensor issue? I wouldn't think it would start again if it was. On my previous XJ, it cranked freely when the sensor went out, just never fired.
4: Could this just be a starter / battery issue and maybe I f-ed up the coil pack rail or a plug when pulling it apart off camber in the notch on the trail?

I'm not quite sure where to start diagnosing with the weird symptoms.


It's a 2001 engine with probably 60-70K on the motor that had been replaced earlier in the Jeeps life (from the dealership) just before I owned it. Radiator is 1 year old with not much mileage on it, oil is full synthetic, about a year old, but maybe only 300 miles on the oil change. Plugs are relatively new

Thanks guys!
 
I read through this entire post and did not see any reason for the starter to not be on it's last leg... Even then, I'd give it a hard look.

.02
 
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X2. Did you ever pull the belt off to make sure something else wasn't locking up? Ac compressor maybe? I would pull injector connectors off to isolate the cylinder, then run compression on which one is missing. All that still doesn't explain the dying part. There were no codes in it?
 
X2. Did you ever pull the belt off to make sure something else wasn't locking up? Ac compressor maybe? I would pull injector connectors off to isolate the cylinder, then run compression on which one is missing. All that still doesn't explain the dying part. There were no codes in it?

No codes.

We talked about pulling the belt to try it out on the trail, but never actually did. I am AC deleted so that's not it, but I was working the hydro steering hard and I think I remember it dragging down the motor a bit when the pump was working really hard. Can the water pump lock up?

Pulling injector plugs is a great idea to isolate cylinders. I'll definitely give that a shot.

I'll also get the starter and alternator tested. Alternator is a relocated grand Cherokee one that came out of a junkyard. Maybe its not keeping up with the charging task. And like hypoid says, starter sounds suspect for sure.
 
Water pump could definitely lock up. I've personally never seen a power steering pump lock up, but doesn't mean it can't. If you get those parts tested at the parts store, keep in mind they are tested with no load, which is not exactly accurate (alt and starter).
 
Reading this thread has me realizing I probably killed Two things last Two months of working on my xj ...1 my nearly new optima by leaving my hard wired led light bar relays on the battery they alway have power and now the battery is prolly beyond taking a charge...lol...and after burning through nearly 3 10lb rolls of L56 I just remembered I did so with battery hooked up a d ecm plugged In...lol...may as well add ecm to pnp
Parts pick up list.
 
I was in the V Notch on my passenger side for probably too long and after a while of trying to work the Jeep out of the notch, the motor died on me. It did restart but died after a few seconds. It restarted maybe 1 or 2 more times (still on my side) and died quickly each time.
Is it possible the fuel was sloshed to the passenger side and left the pickup/pump dry?
 
I would start with a wet/dry compression test. This will tell you a lot about the motor before you go any further. With the engine not cranking, if it was hydrolock or a seized piston, a compression test will probably show a problem.
 
Is it possible the fuel was sloshed to the passenger side and left the pickup/pump dry?

Couple off the wall questions:
-You mentioned checking the oil, have you checked it after you got the Jeep started again? Wondering if a small amount of coolant or something got into the oil throwing you gauge off. Does the '01 have the ability to check oil pressure via an OBDII port? Could be a faulty gauge as well.
-For the missing cylinder, check the fuel and spark. You pulled the plugs, wondering if a plug wire got damaged or not fully seated on a plug. Hypoids point about fuel also makes sense, possible a fuel pickup got a little junk at the bottom of the tank and fouled an injector.
-On the trail when the Jeep would not crank, were all the dash lights (assuming you have any) coming on? Did headlights, brake lights, etc come on?
-Would a frozen starter cause the inability to turn the engine over? Ive never tried to turn a I6 over by hand, is it possible with what I assume is a standard length cheater bar? Thats the part that is really interesting, what would cause the engine to lock up, and seemingly go away.
- A water pump being locked up might explain the engine getting up to temp quicker, or it could also be this hot weather we are having right now.


More questions than answers, sorry!
 
Reading this thread has me realizing I probably killed Two things last Two months of working on my xj ...1 my nearly new optima by leaving my hard wired led light bar relays on the battery they alway have power and now the battery is prolly beyond taking a charge...lol...and after burning through nearly 3 10lb rolls of L56 I just remembered I did so with battery hooked up a d ecm plugged In...lol...may as well add ecm to pnp
Parts pick up list.

Your fine! My Optima has been killed twice and taken a charge, still working fine! And I welded the shit out of my Jeep never disconnecting the ECM and have never had a problem with it due to welding.
 
Here's today's update.....

I did have power the whole time, no lights came on while running (all aftermarket gauges and warning lights). Oil and temp lights never came on while it was running. The oil light does come on before the engine starts and builds pressure.

I did a coolant pressure test and it held solid at 17psi. (worried about the 00-01 head cracking issue).


I ran a cold compression test. It took 3 tries with 3 different tools to get it to read. One Oreilly's tool had ripped O-rings, a different Oreilly's tool leaked like a sieve, then I bought a HF one, but needed to use the adapter from the Oreilly's one to fit the head. All 6 cylinders are reading +/- 115 psi cold. Ranging from barely over 110 to just under 120. Don't know if that's a good cold value, but they are all within 10% of each other.

I put some new NGK plugs in just to be sure I hadn't cracked a plug on the trail. It still fires right up and holds idle. I has what sounds like a little bit of lifter noise at idle. It doesn't sound like a misfire. If I give it some RPM, the noises start up. I think it is a little bit of a light but valve slapping noise. I don't think it's (or at least like to hope it's not) rod noise, but you really can't tell. At idle (cold) it's still hanging at 50psi on the gauge. I only saw 60 when it first fired up after the trail issues. The oil at the dipstick still looks clean, but I'll need to drain the pan to really know. Also, still no OBDII codes thrown.

Next step is to pull the valve cover and see what I see. I'm sure there's some valve train damage hiding in there. Here's the question... If it's a bent pushrod, is that an individually replaceable piece, or do I assume it damaged the cam and swap the whole head?


If it were just valve damage, a head swap would be reasonable. If it's crank bearings, I think I'd start weaseling away some V8 money. If I had the coin laying around now, the motor would already have been out in anticipation of the swap! There's a limited amount of money I'm willing to put into repairing a 4.0. At some point it would be money better spent on a 5.3. I'm not really sure which one I'm hoping for!


Who knows where the sweet deals on 5.3s or 6.0s are?
What's the going rate these days for a take out used motor and trans?




1-Ton...
I've welded almost everything on mine with the ECU hooked up and never had a problem. If you find your optima won't take a charge, bring it over (if you're close enough) and hook it up to my optima charger. It is supposed to be able to bring them back from levels that normal chargers won't recover from.
 
While your compression is a bit low (but not out of line for an older engine), it is consistent across all cylinders, so I don't see any problems there. If you had a piston seize, it would have definitely shown up. If you had a bad valve that wasn't sealing, you should have seen it reflected in the compression test numbers.

If the engine would not rotate, even with the plugs out and wrench on the harmonic balancer, my next move would be to drop the pan and crankshaft journal caps and the rod caps to take a look. Without plugs in it, the engine should rotate pretty easy. You should always have to hold the flex plate when tightening the torque converter bolts, even with the plugs in.
 
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Here's today's update.....

I did have power the whole time, no lights came on while running (all aftermarket gauges and warning lights). Oil and temp lights never came on while it was running. The oil light does come on before the engine starts and builds pressure.

I did a coolant pressure test and it held solid at 17psi. (worried about the 00-01 head cracking issue).


I ran a cold compression test. It took 3 tries with 3 different tools to get it to read. One Oreilly's tool had ripped O-rings, a different Oreilly's tool leaked like a sieve, then I bought a HF one, but needed to use the adapter from the Oreilly's one to fit the head. All 6 cylinders are reading +/- 115 psi cold. Ranging from barely over 110 to just under 120. Don't know if that's a good cold value, but they are all within 10% of each other.

I put some new NGK plugs in just to be sure I hadn't cracked a plug on the trail. It still fires right up and holds idle. I has what sounds like a little bit of lifter noise at idle. It doesn't sound like a misfire. If I give it some RPM, the noises start up. I think it is a little bit of a light but valve slapping noise. I don't think it's (or at least like to hope it's not) rod noise, but you really can't tell. At idle (cold) it's still hanging at 50psi on the gauge. I only saw 60 when it first fired up after the trail issues. The oil at the dipstick still looks clean, but I'll need to drain the pan to really know. Also, still no OBDII codes thrown.

Next step is to pull the valve cover and see what I see. I'm sure there's some valve train damage hiding in there. Here's the question... If it's a bent pushrod, is that an individually replaceable piece, or do I assume it damaged the cam and swap the whole head?


If it were just valve damage, a head swap would be reasonable. If it's crank bearings, I think I'd start weaseling away some V8 money. If I had the coin laying around now, the motor would already have been out in anticipation of the swap! There's a limited amount of money I'm willing to put into repairing a 4.0. At some point it would be money better spent on a 5.3. I'm not really sure which one I'm hoping for!


Who knows where the sweet deals on 5.3s or 6.0s are?
What's the going rate these days for a take out used motor and trans?




1-Ton...
I've welded almost everything on mine with the ECU hooked up and never had a problem. If you find your optima won't take a charge, bring it over (if you're close enough) and hook it up to my optima charger. It is supposed to be able to bring them back from levels that normal chargers won't recover from.

I'll keep that in mind the Yellow top was $205 ...lol...an ecm is $25 from a pick n pull I even grabbed a spare when the original ecm crapped. Out while driving to carnage ...
 
I'll keep that in mind the Yellow top was $205 ...lol...an ecm is $25 from a pick n pull I even grabbed a spare when the original ecm crapped. Out while driving to carnage ...

At least it was while driving TO carnage and not ON carnage. I'm really getting tired of my once a year get dragged off carnage ritual I'm starting to have.

A smart man might stop going to carnage, but I'm not claiming to be smart when it comes to trail selection!
 
Don't worry, after my first trip down to penrose (5 days before a Moab trip), we swore the devil lived down there.... I've been back 4 or 5 times since then.
 
Pulled the pan and valve cover.

Let's start with a good thing. I found that I have the TUPY updated head which fixed the cracking issues of the 00-01 heads. That must have been on the new engine that got put in just before I bought the Jeep.

Now the bad. I struck gold in the pan! Lots of gold flakes floating around (I assume gold / bronze is bearing material) and one lonely sliver of silver. I also noticed a different color silver band in the middle of the cam lobes. I'm not sure if this is just normal lifter wear or if it has any damage to it. Visually, everything looks good up top (for whatever that's worth) and there is oil pooled in all of the rockers which is a good sign of good oiling. But still, motor is done and needs to come out to see how bad it is... I'm not sure if I want to put any money into rebuilding the 4.0 or not. Every dollar in the 4.0 would be a dollar better spent on a V8. I guess it will depend on the extent of damage.

One guy in my neighborhood has a reasonably priced LS1 take out (no transmission) he tempted me with, but unfortunately I have no budget for that right now. But it's in my head now! I guess I start saving and watching out for LM7 deals out there.

 
Pull the head and sell it off, scrap the engine, or sell it as good head, bad bottom end.

Why did this happen again?
 
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