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33 or 35s

I always say if it aint broke, dont fix it. When my track bar finally went I opted for the Rock Krawler track bar. It is the beefiest track bar that I have seen. Solid bar not a tube. It comes with a drop bracket and is easy to install. Plus it costs about the same as most of the other HD track bars out there.
I always wonder about that... does solid bar really make that much difference? I figure the track bar is only as strong as its weakest link, I'd rather fold a trackbar than collapse/twist the uniframe rail. That and it appears to still use a stock style bushing, and the bushing socket or the bushing itself are going to fail way before even a piece of properly-dimensioned tubing.
 
I always wonder about that... does solid bar really make that much difference? I figure the track bar is only as strong as its weakest link, I'd rather fold a trackbar than collapse/twist the uniframe rail. That and it appears to still use a stock style bushing, and the bushing socket or the bushing itself are going to fail way before even a piece of properly-dimensioned tubing.

Either way you look at it most of the aftermarket track bars have bends in them to allow maximum misalignment out of the upper joint and a clearance bend on the lower side to clear the top of the stock sheet metal axle mount. Unless you get a strait track bar with a HD mount on BOTH the frame and axle side, then that will always be your week point.
 
Kentuckytwostep.
You don't seem any wider than me :dunno: on the rear your tire is tucked into 1/4 just the same spot as mine. So why are 'stock width axles' so bad?
I've run 35's multiple times on stock axles no prob, maybe lighten up on the skinny pedal??

I snapped a shot looking down the side (with out the tire stuffed). Like I said, I had steering problems with 31's and stock axles. Tires were always rubbing on the LCA's, inner fenders, etc. Of course I was running stock rims with 5.25" back spacing...

Anyone that says 35's on 3.55's is "okay" needs to try some gears in the high 4/low 5 range.

Look dude, if you want to build something to look good then do whatever you want, but if you also want something that will be reliable on the trail take my advice... or not, good wheeling either way!

IMG_1726.jpg
 
Either way you look at it most of the aftermarket track bars have bends in them to allow maximum misalignment out of the upper joint and a clearance bend on the lower side to clear the top of the stock sheet metal axle mount. Unless you get a strait track bar with a HD mount on BOTH the frame and axle side, then that will always be your week point.


slight thread jack (apologize ahead of time) but redrider. if your running a stock style track bar with the tie rod end on the frame side. will that limit alot of flex? i noticed when i tried to remove my coil's the other day to install bump stops, my droop stopped before my shocks finished extending or LCA's hit anywhere or brake lines maxed out. i only have a 4" lift but im curious if that is what's limiting my droop and if i should upgrade to an iron rock double sheer track bar like this one.
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...en=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-STBCK
 
I think i will install the lift before stiffeners, due to the bolt situation, and i can see where to put the stiffeners, only things i would have to take off would be the front coils/shock to do the front, and nothing else for the rest

i have been looking at my shocks and they seem like they dont have any travel, its weird and are very hard to pull out.. this doesnt seem so good.


I am just unsure how to do my IRO HNT and the rear axle/shims or whatever

Driveshaft angles are most confusing to me, and maybe adjusting parts unless the instructions clearly say what to adjust to. time to get reading
 
xjgoboom, are you saying the shocks dont push out by themselves and they are pretty restrictive? if thats the case its because they are hydraulic shocks not nitro shocks. i have a set of hydraulic shocks on my jeep and i too thought it was weird they were hard to pull out but they have been good to me so far.

nitrogen charged shocks are gas charged and those are the kind that force the shock shaft back to fully extended position as to where the hydraulic shocks stay where you put them.
 
Kentuckytwostep. I'm not trying to pick a fight. I'm not saying keep stock gears on 35's.

You made a comment about stock WIDTH axles being ridiculous. But from your pic, your tires stick out about 1/2" further than mine per side. And I didn't understand how that validated your point. :dunno:

I'm all about upgraded parts. But if you can't wheel 35's on a 30 or stock width axles without breakin all the time. You're doing something wrong. :D

good wheelin man
 
slight thread jack (apologize ahead of time) but redrider. if your running a stock style track bar with the tie rod end on the frame side. will that limit alot of flex? i noticed when i tried to remove my coil's the other day to install bump stops, my droop stopped before my shocks finished extending or LCA's hit anywhere or brake lines maxed out. i only have a 4" lift but im curious if that is what's limiting my droop and if i should upgrade to an iron rock double sheer track bar like this one.
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...en=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-STBCK

That will help because the upper bushing is rotated 90 degrees which allows infinite amount of pivotup and down. If you know what Im saying. Now, when you jack the front end up take a look at a couple things... Are you running short arms? if you are, is the top of your arm hitting the bottom of the shock mount and coil mount assembly at full droop? If not, are you steering linkage TREs maxed out? if not, look at the axle mount for the trackbar, alot of times the trackbar will hit that mount when fully drooped. It could be 1 or any number of these things. If your still running the stock 4-link then maybe that 4th upper arm is binding with the other upper arm.
I would check all those problem spots I mentioned first. If you have any more questions feel free to PM or call me.

Kris
 
I run 35s on a stock D30 with no problems.
 
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