Front axle took me about 4-5 hours working alone, but I was being quiet and going slow and drinking a lot of beer. I did this swap in stages:
* swapped front axle in instead of the beam. 4-5 hours. Mostly because my track bar bolt was rusted and stuck and I had to very carefully grind off the nut on my drag link at the knuckle without wrecking the threads on the TRE stud, it was too badly rusted to get a socket on it. You won't need to worry about this obviously. I did the axle and then drove it around with my awesome dana 30 2wd beam for about a year because I didn't have time to swap the trans yet.
* swapped the trans and transfer case. I would say this took me around 15 to 20 hours because I had to build a custom wiring harness to disable the NSS and get my reverse lights back, and had to swap out all the automatic stuff and swap in all the manual stuff, including the clutch pedal, drilling holes in the firewall, etc. I also pulled and replaced the motor at the same time as well as the radiator, steering box, power steering pump, and a lot of other parts because they were due for replacement and my motor mount bosses had broken off from deathwobble. I would budget about 5-10 hours to swap in the trans, transfer case, and front driveshaft.
* installed lift and new rear axle, set pinion angle, and shortened driveshaft to the proper length. This probably took me about 4 or 5 hours, it should take you way less because you just have to shorten the driveshaft or get it shortened... in fact I would just tape a cokebottle over the transfer case output housing, toss the driveshaft in the bed, and drive it to a driveline shop, then ask them to cut it to the right length. I did it myself because I have a welder (do you? I forget) and it came out OK, aside from vibes above 75 because I was an idiot and welded the yoke back on 70 degrees out of phase :dunce: I was in a hell of a hurry trying to get the thing ready for a trail run the next day and completely forgot to line them up.
If I was going to do it again on a stock height truck without the 5spd swap and had a flat driveway to do it on instead of my back porch, I believe I could get the whole job done in ~15 hours working alone. That's pulling the motor and drivetrain out the front because I absolutely hate wrestling with a transmission under the truck.
Special tools you'll want - E12 inverse torx, good torx set (some jeeps have UCA bolts with torx heads), 5/16" gearwrench (front CV yoke bolts), 9/16" gearwrench with a flex head (transfer case to transmission stud nuts), 15mm gearwrench with a flex head (torque converter to flexplate bolts), 11mm socket, wobble joint, and a million feet of extensions if you are doing the trans from under the truck (CPS bolts.)
You should keep in mind the year splits for donor vehicles - don't know em too well for standards, but ideally I would go with a 91-95 AW4 and NP231 from the same vehicle since you'll get a more modern 23 spline setup with better parts availability, and the rear output on the transfer case will be compatible with the yoke on your rear driveshaft. Ideally you should get the front axle from a 91-94 with ABS or any 95-99 (specifically a 99.5 if you are also planning a WJ steering/brake swap at some point in the future.) A lot of this doesn't have much to do with doing the 4wd swap, but you might as well get parts that save the most time/money for other swaps you might do in the future IMO.