2000 no start after swap, and a few codes

[McQue]

from the book...hope it helps

If engine crankshaft or camshaft has been rotated, such as during engine tear-down, CMP sensor
relationship must be reestablished.
Remove ignition coil rail assembly. Remove cylinder number 1 spark plug.
Hold a finger over the open spark plug hole.
Rotate engine at vibration dampener bolt until compression (pressure) is felt.
Slowly continue to rotate engine. Do this until timing index mark on vibration damper pulley
aligns with top dead center (TDC) mark (0 degree) on timing degree scale. Always
rotate engine in direction of normal rotation. Do not rotate engine backward to align timing marks.
Install oil pump drive into engine while aligning into slot on oil pump. If pump drive will
not drop down flush to engine block, the oil pump slot is not aligned. Remove oil pump drive and
align slot in oil pump to shaft at bottom of drive. Install into engine. Rotate oil pump drive back to
its original position and install hold-down clamp and bolt. Finger tighten bolt.
Remove toothpick from housing. Install sensor to oil pump drive. After installation,​

the CMP sensor should face rear of engine 0°.

 

[tommy54]

MCQue, I've done this, at least I think so. There's one part that I don't quite understand. What do they mean to "Rotate oil pump drive back to its original position"?
As the assembly drops into the motor it rotates about 90 degrees, then sits flush on the block if the oil pump slot is aligned with the oil pump drive. As long as the toothpick is still in the cam sensor, the oil pump drive can't be rotated at all at this point. What do they mean?

 

[Talyn]

Doesn't make sense. Just ignore it.

 

[McQue]

I have never done the procedure ...but I think they mean to remove the assembly, and put a screwdriver down into the slot on the oil pump and align the slot with the assembly so it will slide in flush.

 

[McQue]

Been searching the forum for info on this no start problem...
If you believe the Cam sensor is adjusted/positioned aligned properly, then great.
But how do you know the the sensor is working? How did you rule out the sensor is not faulty? Just asking...read a thread where replacing the cam sensor fixed a no start problem. FSM says the following:

The CMP sensor contains a hall effect device called a sync signal generator to generate a fuel sync signal.
This sync signal generator detects a rotating pulse ring (shutter) on the oil pump drive shaft . The pulse ring rotates 180 degrees through the sync signal generator. Its signal is used in conjunction with the crankshaft position sensor to differentiate between fuel injection and spark events. It is also used to synchronize the fuel injectors with their​

respective cylinders. The rotational position of oil pump drive determines fuel synchronization only. It does not determine
ignition timing.

 

[tommy54]

The cam sensor functions by outputting either 0 volts or 5 volts. It's an on or off sensor. The computer reads the "square wave" created by the on or off voltage and interprets that data to determine the position of the cam.
I tested the sensor by probing the back of the connector and rotating the engine. You can turn it over by hand and see the output voltage go from 5 to 0 with nothing in between. It looks like it is doing exactly what it is supposed to do.
I'm 100% sure that the cam sensor is aligned properly. I put the engine on TDC again and checked, toothpick still fits.
I'm totally lost, wondering if there is something wrong with the motor itself. Not sure what it could be, thinking about trying to pick up a running used engine and drop it in.

 

[tommy54]

Found an engine from a running 99 with all accessories for $250. I think I'll pick it up since the price is right. I know the ignition parts won't work. I'm ready to just pull my motor out tonight and pick the other one up tomorrow. Once you've pulled it once it goes quick the second time.
I don't mind throwing a used engine in for a while. I'd like to go through mine and do it right this time, and put it back in later. I think something isn't right in the motor and I can't spend any more time trying to figure it out. Seems like all computer functions are fine in the jeep, so something has to be wrong internally. I didn't have the head checked for straightness before I bolted it on this block, maybe that has something to do with it. I did another compression test and got 80 psi on the first cylinder, then the starter decided to die. I think it's a sign.

 

[Talyn]

Previously, was the battery 100% charged? A bad battery can cause a lot of problems.

 

[tommy54]

Full charge on the battery, and a second fully charged battery hooked up with jumper cables. I also have a load tester and I tested each battery. As the starter was dying today I noticed that it only cranked for 6 or 7 seconds before sounding weak.

 

[12lbRooster]

Is the compression too low to fire?

I had a 4.0 that at the end of it's life required a little help to get started some days. It entailed removing the spark plugs and pouring a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder and cranking with the plugs out. Next put the set of plugs back in and it would fire right up.

Obviously this isn't a permanent solution but it got the four more months I needed out of the motor.

Not sure how well it equates to your situation but it's simple and inexpensive.