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1997 Cherokee Issues

at least i have narrowed it down to a fuel delivery issue, its getting too much and thats why it wont start and idle well.

If you have a friend that has a newer style XJ you might consider asking him if he would allow you to test his MAP sensor against yours for a comparison....
If the voltage readings are dramatically different then you know that either the sensor is bad or the vacuum that the MAP is reading is out of spec.... (bad sensor, vacuum leak on TB gasket/obstructed sensing port, large vacuum hose, or intake manifold gasket).
If its rough to start, but does after cranking for a while and doesn't idle....; then as others have suggested.... It's the Idle Air Controller (IAC solenoid).
 
cleaned the IAC and unplugged the map and it started and ran smooth with half throttle but would not idle. while it was running the tach was jumping around like effing crazy, could that just be because it isnt running good yet or is that a wiring problem?
 
Earlier you said that you replaced the Cam Position Sensor... generally when the tach is jumping around its caused by one of the CPS's...
You need to do some testing on the Crank Position Sensor. The fluctuations in the engine rpm's is caused by inconsistant sensor voltage to the ECM.
 
I had a similar issue with my 98 xj, It would run and drive but after a couple of minutes of driving it would misfire, start smoking and want to die. It was throwing codes saying misfire in cyl 6 and cyl 6 injecter was staying open. I took the wiring harness apart and found that the wire for injector six was grounding itself causing it to stay on.replaced the wire that was grounding and it ran perfect. It might be worth it to check the wires going to the fuel injectors from the ecu.
 
My kid's 97 had issues for over a year. I tested, replaced every sensor, cable, ground I could find. Changed out the computer. Sometimes it would throw codes, sometimes not. It ran well for a year after a week of work, and $800 in parts, and then started crapping out. For the entire time, to make it start quickly, you had to depress the accelerator once before starting. This last summer when it was crapping out, stepping on the brake would cause it to die. Changed out the vacuum booster, no change. It threw a 700 code or two, changed the NSS. No change. Pulled off the aftermarket cruise control. Some improvement. Tranny shop used their reader on a test drive. Concluded it was the engine. Took to the electrical genius in town. He replaced the fuel pump. It made it drive better, but stepping on the brake still killed it. He finally traced it down to a bad ground in the tail light that the engine management system was using for a ground. According to the Mitchell repair schematic, pins a31, and a32 at the ecm connector should go to ground. I checked them, and one had a fairly low resistance, and the other was either open or somewhat high resistance. I piggy backed backed grounds to the wires on those pins on the connector and ran the grounds to the firewall. The mitchell schematic shows these grounds on the firewall, but none of the 97's I've looked at have had them. The mechanics newer 4.0 LJ did have those grounds on the firewall. :dunno:

Anyway, it now starts like a 4.0 without touching the accelerator. It only took a couple of grand, two weeks of my time, and four visits to three of the best professional mechanics in town so his $1200 XJ runs.
 
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