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1995 XJ With a trans shifting issue

ss427ci

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oahu, HI
So I finally talked the owner into selling me his 95 2wd XJ for $300. :rtm: He insisted that he was going to get around to fixing it someday. It is parked right next to mine and I can't stand to see a XJ just sit there and rot. So the plan is to fix it up, sell it, then use the profit to buy more parts for my 01 XJ, :D

So the issue is the transmission is not shifting. I haven't even test drove it yet, but by the way he described it, I automatically assumed solenoids. So those are already on the way.

After those go in, I'll change all the fluids from bumper to bumper, do a tune up, freshen up the grounding wires and put in a new battery. It has been sitting for quite a few months now. Then I'll make her look all purdy and lastly find some cheap tires.

Hopefully I can make it sellable, not spend a fortune and make a decent profit, we shall see.

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Great buy for $300!

Don't forget about the importance of the throttle position sensor in shifting. Here is more on this very important engine management sensor.

Good luck and keep us updated!
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The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!

• Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
• High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
• Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
• Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted accordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
• Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the denied acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticeable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.
 
Awesome, thanks for the info, I'll look into that as well. Although I did start it and it seemed to idle fine with no hesitation. Which lead me to believe it was the solenoids for sure. So I've already got them and will throw them in with the fluid change and see what happens this weekend.
 
Check the fuse for the TCM under the dash
 
I would also maybe suspect the NSS and ground for the TCM, my experience is mainly working on my 98 so I am not sure this would be the same. Good luck and congrats!!
 
If you can drive it by manually shifting it, the TCM fuse is the most likely culprit. Blindly throwing parts at it is an expensive way to go. You might want to find tires on craigslist if you really need them to make a sale.
 
Check the fuse for the TCM under the dash

OK, I'll check that out.

If you can drive it by manually shifting it, the TCM fuse is the most likely culprit. Blindly throwing parts at it is an expensive way to go. You might want to find tires on craigslist if you really need them to make a sale.

But XJs love it when you throw money at them. They eat it right up, haha.
 
I would also maybe suspect the NSS and ground for the TCM, my experience is mainly working on my 98 so I am not sure this would be the same. Good luck and congrats!!

I don't suspect the NSS, but I will check the grounds this weekend as well. Good idea.
 
So today I changed the oil, transmission filter/fluid & all 3 solenoids.
Then took it for a test drive, still bad. Noticed TV cable was out of adjustment, re-adjusted, didn't fix it either.

Then I noticed both reverse lights were not working, so I tried to start it in neutral and it wouldn't start. So maybe cpefy3 was right and I was wrong, haha. Tomorrow I'll be taking the NSS off and cleaning it.

If that doesn't work, I'm going to take the TPS off my 01 XJ and put it on the 95 XJ to see if that helps and if so, go buy a new one.

If that doesn't work, I will report back with a detailed description of the symptoms so I can get some further guidance.
 
When you reassemble the NSS, manually index by locating the arm in the neutral position, then carefully reassemble. Shift the transmission into neutral, then carefully slide it back on, and tighten in place. You will be shocked to see how far off the factory mark is.

Many people install a new unit, only to get a MIL soon afterwards because the factory index mark is usually inaccurate.
 
Roger that.
I watched the bleepinjeep video so I should be good to go, haha.
 
So I cleaned the NSS, reinstalled. Now I have reverse lights and I can start in neutral. But didn't fix the major problem. I replaced the TPS, still have the transmission problem.

That only leaves about 4 possibilites that I will look into next weekend.
1. Continue to exchange the old fluid for new Dex/Merc III and see if symptoms improve
2. Clean all ground connections and trace any possible wire faults.
3. Diagnose the TCM properly and see if the actual TCM is bad. (fuses are good)
4. The clutch packs are shot and I've wasted about $500. :(
 
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Expense Tally so far:
$300 - Price of 95 XJ
$60 - New pro-rated Battery
$85 - (3) New Solenoids, filter, gasket
$35 - TPS Sensor
$35 - Rear Hatch Struts
$22 - Dex/Merc III ATF
$20 - Delo 15w40 oil
$4 - Puralator Oil Filter
$6 - Oil change boxes
$5 - New oil drain plug
$570 - Total invested so far.

*I bought new wipers & air filter for my 01 XJ and transfered my old ones to the 95 XJ, so I'm not counting those in the cost.

I am trying to save most of my $1,000 budget for used tires, but without a working transmission, tires will be pointless.
 
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It's alive!
I fixed a crappy splice repair on the main battery ground, cleaned the ground contacts on the engine block, started unplugging and spraying harness connections with CRC electronic cleaner. Buttoned it back up and it shifts perfect. So the fix could have been either a bad ground connection, loose harness connection or corroded harness connection.

The symptoms for future reference.
When in D you were in 4th gear from a stop, no shifting
When in 3 you were in 3rd gear from a stop, no shifting
When in 1-2 you were in 1st gear from a stop, no shifting
You could shift manually from 1st to 3rd however
These would be the same driving characteristics that you would have if you unplugged the TCM, hence the TCM was not getting power.

There are other factors that could contribute to this condition, such as: faulty TPS, dirty NSS, faulty solenoid, wiring short, low fluid, burnt fluid.

Thank you all for your input.
 
You got a great deal! I'm glad to see it worked out for you.
 
Sure did, glad it was something simple. Hopefully I can turn a nice profit on it.
 
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