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1985 jeep cherokee v6 automatic

cherokeedriver420 said:
mine will run with the 4.0l all day and most of the time come out on top.
Click to expand...

Um...proof please :gag:

Unless you have some deep gears to compensate, I can't imagine it keeping up with a 4.0.

I haven't driven one personally, so prove me wrong.
 
cherokeedriver420 said:
if you want good power out of it bore it dont listen to these guys i drove mine on a rebuild hardcore for five years and just rebuilt it again fist time was 30 over and now 40 decent gas milage, and good power for what it is. mine will run with the 4.0l all day and most of the time come out on top. and yes its the wrist pin mine did the same thing but ive also seen it through more miles than any 4.0l . the clicking noise while turning it over is the P.O.S. chrysler starter relay you can get a ford solinoid and wire it in its a little tricky but you never have that problem again. If you need any more info you can PM me mine is an 86 and ive had it for a long time. Wouldnt trade it for anything.
Click to expand...

Chysler didn't use starter relays. The Chysler starters used a integrated solenoid.
The 2.8L is a GM engine, and it has a GM starter. It also has what appears to be an integrated solenoid, but you can purchase them separately from the starter.

None of us seen his rig, and if the body is less than pristine, it may not be worth it to him to do any of the options described.

I have found that in the long run, advice over the internet is worth what you pay for it ;)
 
The jeep We bought it for $50.00 plus the $17.00 for the carb rebuild kit.
The rig is in ok shape, would make a good trail rig. The body is pretty straight for the most part. paint clear coat is coming off.
I'm not sure what to do to it now, maybe just part it out.
 
techshooter02 said:
The jeep We bought it for $50.00 plus the $17.00 for the carb rebuild kit.
The rig is in ok shape, would make a good trail rig. The body is pretty straight for the most part. paint clear coat is coming off.
I'm not sure what to do to it now, maybe just part it out.
Click to expand...

$50, cool. So you could put $2-300 in it on a used yard engine and not break the bank ;)
Paint is minor, what I was speaking of was rust. If it's clean from that standpoint, a bit of sanding and a gallon of Rust O'leum will make it almost respectable.

If you decide to part it, remember that those axles are likely a low ratio, either a 3.73 or 4.10, but you'll have to check the tags. The D35 rear is a Non-Clip model.
 
cherokeedriver420 said:
if you want good power out of it bore it dont listen to these guys i drove mine on a rebuild hardcore for five years and just rebuilt it again fist time was 30 over and now 40 decent gas milage, and good power for what it is. mine will run with the 4.0l all day and most of the time come out on top. and yes its the wrist pin mine did the same thing but ive also seen it through more miles than any 4.0l . the clicking noise while turning it over is the P.O.S. chrysler starter relay you can get a ford solinoid and wire it in its a little tricky but you never have that problem again. If you need any more info you can PM me mine is an 86 and ive had it for a long time. Wouldnt trade it for anything.
Click to expand...

wow I want some of whatever you're smoking...the MPI 4 banger has more power than the 2.8 and there are plenty of dudes on here with over 300k on their factory 4.0's, becha you don't even have 300k after TWO rebuilds
 
I have always put some transmission oil in v8 motors to help with lifter tap and to help clean out some of the gunk in the motor, and never had an issue with it creating a problem in the motor. I'm pretty sure it had the wrist pin tap before I did that, that is probly why I got it for so cheep. and they said that it was an charging problem. It charges just fine. but heck it has a new radiator in it and new master cylender and new rear cylenders new drums and new shoes. oh and a new five gallon gas can in the rear.
I already have a 4.0L 88 cherokee I drive daily but we couldn't pass up the 50.00 for it plus the new parts.
I'll have to check the gear ratio in it to see what it is.
 
cherokeedriver420 said:
mine will run with the 4.0l all day and most of the time come out on top

...

ive also seen it through more miles than any 4.0l .
Click to expand...


So you have a 190+ HP 2.8 GM that has been running (without a rebuild) for over 300,000 miles?

:bs:
 
Last edited:
techshooter02 said:
I have always put some transmission oil in v8 motors to help with lifter tap and to help clean out some of the gunk in the motor, and never had an issue with it creating a problem in the motor. I'm pretty sure it had the wrist pin tap before I did that, that is probly why I got it for so cheep. and they said that it was an charging problem. It charges just fine. but heck it has a new radiator in it and new master cylender and new rear cylenders new drums and new shoes. oh and a new five gallon gas can in the rear.
I already have a 4.0L 88 cherokee I drive daily but we couldn't pass up the 50.00 for it plus the new parts.
I'll have to check the gear ratio in it to see what it is.
Click to expand...

Okay, if you spent $50.00 on the Jeep and it's rust free (well mostly rust free), is going to be a toy, and, most importantly, if you have the time I'd seriously consider hot rodding it and dropping a small block in it!

I fought with a carb'd 2.8 (1984 Camaro) for many years, those little engines are just gutless trouble, I actually much preferred my old 2.3 I-4 Ford (Courier) engine over it or even my 2.0 Chrysler (Neon).

As for the 4.0 swap you were thinking of it's not worth it. Not only did they change the radiator support they also extensively changed the firewall, since you have XJ's from both eras just pop the hoods and look at the firewalls, you'll see the difference.

Now - If you want to get it up and running quick and cheap do the 3.1/3.4 swap and don't look back. Just remember to get the engine, wiring hardness, and computer from the donor vehicle! Also I'm not sure about the fuel pump, I know that the Camaro had a mechanical fuel pump, not sure about the Cherokee, if it did you will need to add an inline pump someplace to get the fuel into the rail.

Sequoia
 
I was looking at the bodys of the cherokee's I have
I have an 84 4cyl, 85 v6 and 88 4.0L, 89 4.0L what is so different on them besides the motor mounts, but body wise that I couldn't just drop a jeep 4.0L down inside the 85 or the 84 cherokee???
 
Out.JPG


Notice the center of the firewall.
 
cherokeedriver420 said:
if you want good power out of it bore it dont listen to these guys i drove mine on a rebuild hardcore for five years and just rebuilt it again fist time was 30 over and now 40 decent gas milage, and good power for what it is. mine will run with the 4.0l all day and most of the time come out on top. and yes its the wrist pin mine did the same thing but ive also seen it through more miles than any 4.0l . the clicking noise while turning it over is the P.O.S. chrysler starter relay you can get a ford solinoid and wire it in its a little tricky but you never have that problem again. If you need any more info you can PM me mine is an 86 and ive had it for a long time. Wouldnt trade it for anything.
Click to expand...

lmao.

man, first you say you rebuilt it hardcore then rebuilt it AGAIN. you had to do it AGAIN? this is because the motor is junk and you don't understand thathasta .

it's seen you through more miles than any 4.0? BULLSHIT. you rebuilt it TWICE in the time you'd just break a 4.0 in.

next dumb statement of the day is your statement about the chrysler relay.

dude, chrysler DIDN'T EVEN OWN JEEP until late 87/early 88. SO, how is this a chrysler relay? do you even realize that the cherokee, comanche, YJ, and grand cherokee are ALL AMC designs and not chrysler designs? :nono: hasta
 
the firewall differences are negligable. that's no big deal...a hammer will fix any problems you have.

the 40 requires a 4.0 hood latch system, so you'll need to swap the hood. you'd also have to swap the radiator support from fender to fender, and swap the front framerail crossmember as it's part of what holds the 4.0 radiator in. the early xj's (through 86) have a much narrower radiator and different rad. supports etc.
 
I would rather swap the body parts from the 4.0L we looked at all of that and it just unbolts and swaps over, is much quicker than taking a 2.8 L v6 and swaping all the external motor parts to the 3.4L long block. Plus the 4.0L engine will have much more power and last longer then another v6 engine.

With all the cherokee's we have sitting around would make the swap in a weekend or less.

would the 85 v6 transfer case bolt up to a 88 4.0L auto transmission?
 
no. absolutely nothing interchanges between 4.0 parts and 2.5/2.8 drivetrain parts. this includes driveshafts, transfercase, transmission, and motor.
 
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