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2001 jeep cherokee sport
i just picked this up and want to get it running normally. There were a lot of stray wires the kid put in before me and there used to be an auto start which is gone now.
The problem is the only way to start the jeep is: key on and jump the two connections under where...
Just found this post, I'm planning on putting a 136 amp alternator in my 99 Cherokee and was going to upgrade the wires to 4 gauge.
I see a lot of people used a 4 gauge welding wire-I have a bunch of car audio 4 gauge, fine stranded power/ground wires that I wanted to put to use. Does anybody...
Yea, I put on that other stock steering and it cleared it just fine. I brought it to an alignement shop again but they wanted me to replace my trackbar bushing and lower control arm bushings before aligning. So that's where I'm at right now. No rubbing now cause my steering was bent. Thanks for...
I think I may have figures out the problem. I pulled the whole steering off another Jeep and compared it to mine and it looks way off. I had no idea I had bent my steering. Gonna install this one and go from there.
So alignment shop doesnt want me to waste my money getting an alignment and still having to fix my steering problem. They're saying I need to shorten my arms even more, but doing that looks like it will bow the coil even more than it is. The coil is bowed forward at the moment. I'm stumped
Ill keep all that in mind for when I decide to let a shop fix it. I figured since the kit said it would be OK to use with stock arms, it would work. The stock lowers I got measured the same as my others on there.
I measured both arms, and they both measured at 16"-stock and RE. Not really sure how to check castor. Actually, I'm bringing the Jeep to get aligned here in a bit, so maybe they can tell me the final specs.
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I talked about this in the write-up thread but decided to break it off to not get to off-topic from that thread.
As of now, I just finished the rough country drop brackets on my 99 Cherokee with a 4.5" RE lift. I kept on the RE control arms at first but swapped out the uppers for stock (.5"...
You sir, are a genius! This worked 100% for moving the lowers all the way forward. I ended up fitting like 12 washers as a spacer and got new bolts. So now lowers are all the way forward, and the pinion angle looks better but the draglink is still real close.
could my problem be the 2 degree...
yea sounds like it is pretty similar. everything rubicon cept the drop brackets. I did try to pull the lowers forward and uppers back with a ratchet strap-scary stuff there- didn't work out to well. i could always try two straps one on each side. right now, im waiting to hear on any control arms...
4.5" Rubicon superflex. The angles before werent even close to flat. That's why I decided to get the drop brackets. I'm thinking without adjustable uppers, I pushed the axle to far forward
here's a new pic of the pinion angle. the draglink still hits...
Oh wow. *slaps forehead* it was late. Lemme fix that.
On the balljoint question. I installed them before. I got regular lowers and 2 degree uppers. I got the 2 degree ones cause someone at an alignment shop said I needed offset ones and I followed this writeup online but couldn't find offset...
Wheelbase is about 100" on the passenger side, 100.5 on drivers, both give or take just a bit. I guess for the caster, I'd have to get an angle finder. Don't have one.
Here is how it sits, wheels straight and on the ground. I did notice the front end was a little higher up than before...Didn't...
Lowers-15 3/4
Uppers-15 3/8
That's that length of the arms. Does that mean the uppers need to be 3/8" shorter? Maybe I could just re-drill a hole somewhere.
I'm not sure. Right now, its sitting the way it is to see if I could adjust it. I'd have to put it all back together to check that. What I'm getting though, is that I may need a set of adjustable control arms to fix this