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You might want to take a look at the nozzle end of the injectors to make sure they look good. Check the exhaust manifold for cracks. Check cylinder walls and pistons for scratches and cracks.

I had a similar issue with a hitch being stuck in the receiver. I managed to get the hitch pin out using an air hammer. I heated the receiver red hot (after I had soaked in penetrating oil for a couple days) and chained it to a concrete post to try and pull the hitch out. With the jeep in 4...

It has happened before at a CORR race "'Excessive Speed' Is Blamed in Accident June 8, 1999 | For the second time in two years, the Baja 500 has had a fatality. And for the second time in two years, Jason Baldwin was involved. Mexican authorities said Monday that Baldwin was going too fast...

The Spectator rules are clearly posted on the MDR website "Spectators - Please observe the following rules: Be aware the desert tortoise is a protected species Cross the course only at road crossings Do not interfere with the teams in the pits Do not park with your lights on and facing on...

It might work if the floors were a thicker gage of steel, you are likely to burn through the floors before you actually weld with that. For the floors a MIG with shielding gas would be a better choice than the flux core wire welder. These would be better for a cheap welder...

You might be able to find the Northstar in all-wheel drive trim Northstar LH2- "The Northstar was designed originally for transverse front-wheel drive applications. It was modified substantially in 2004 for longitudinal rear- and all-wheel drive use in the SRX and XLR"...

The bearing strap kit 2-70-18x I bought about three weeks ago has a "country of origin:USA" printed on its box The 5-153x u-joint snap rings have "made in USA" on the bag they are in, as for the u-joint itself... it is under my jeep now so I couldn't tell you if it says "made in USA" on it

The valve cover mod to help with blowby is http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1026666 You could also try using Restore to better control the blowby http://www.restoreusa.com/

There are many suppliers of oval stainless tubing http://www.burnsstainless.com/304ovalsstubing.aspx http://drgas.mybisi.com/products/oval-tubing-and-bends For the exhaust, why didn't you use 321 stainless or Inconel if you were so concerned about cracking?

I posted the compression numbers in another thread (http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=244894278 post#12) to keep this thread on topic

I know this is bringing up an old thread, but I wanted to update after all the fixes So I took the head off and the problems just started to jump out at me... -The pistons and cylinder walls all looked good -The head was warped, I ended up having 0.018" shaved off of it. -Thermostat housing...

I tried this, at first I only cut a half inch off then I took another half inch and drilled the hole on tha backside and it still blowing oil out. Although it doesn't seem to have as much coming out now, it is still a noticable amount. Has anybody else tried this yet?

The parts for the dual piston are listed on the jeep4x4center site, but it looks like rebuilding them will cost you almost as much as getting new ones from Autozone or Advance Auto ($40-50)

ATF applied from a squirt bottle or brush would probaby be better than WD40, as it would leave a coating on the metal longer than the WD40.

like this? http://www.discountjeepparts.com/product_info.php/cPath/1714_305/products_id/13222 or http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-brake-parts/grand-cherokee-wj-wk/index.htm or http://www.tellico4x4.com/index.php?cPath=1714_305&vt_id=11

What part number is on your receipt? 15343 or 1690 the 15343 ($139.90 +shipping) http://www.ineedparts.com/images/detailed_images/APN-15343.jpg the 1690 ($152.94 +shipping) http://www.ineedparts.com/images/detailed_images/327211.jpg

Sherman Auto Body parts http://ecat.shermanparts.com/base/welcome.php the rockers should be around $50 each

The jack mount is below the red circle in the pic. That is most likely the mount for the lower outside (male) end of the seatbelt. Depending on the year of the XJ the back belts were mounted at either 2 points or 3 points.

This link might help... it might have something to do with the difference between the Renix oil adapter and the HO adapter http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARoilFilterConversion/OilFilterConversion.htm

Why would you want to use the thinner metal?