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Yes, was thinking of padding the stands with some 2x4 pieces.

Thanks both. Primary goal here is to replace the factory original bump stops on the front. I guess they've gotten hard and shrunk. One fell out of its mount. Should be no big deal as long as I can get full extension on the front coils.

I hate to ask this question but none of the pics I’ve found are very good, and the diagrams are useless. For using a floor jack and placing jack stands on the front “frame” (to allow the front suspension to be completely free, is it correct that I can use the frame just behind the rear LCAs...

Resurrecting this old thread to avoid starting a new one. Question: does the Powermaster fit without physical alterations? Are the wiring connections compatible with the OEM harness? Thanks!

Thanks, Jim. I think my conclusion here is that I'll buy the part from the lower cost vendor and warehouse it in case I change my mind about R&Ring the bent one, but I don't think I'll do it unless some good reason comes up - like, possibly, selling the Jeep. Nah, never happen... ;)

Yes, that's the part. The issue is that it's discontinued from the factory and such an odd part that no one seems to have any NOS. I found the two mentioned above. If I were going to do this, I have doubts about a $12 part when the factory retail was something like $60. Don't need pot metal...

You may well be right. There are zero issues functionally. The only possible issue would be problems if you had to adjust the caster setting, which just isn't going to happen, at least not unless you change the lift (this one is factory). So leaving it alone may be the money bet...

Thanks, Rob. Explains it, sort of. I didn't see it happen, but the only person other than me who's had a jack under the vehicle for years is the guy who did the last inspection, and it wasn't bent before. It was inspected almost a year ago so it's too late to go back and have a conversation...

Fouled up positioning a floor jack to check the ball joints.

Inspection station idiot bent one of the LCA bracket bolts on my 2000 XJ. I assume that replacement is straightforward - remove the LCA rear bolt, remove the bracket to the front of the Jeep, then replace bracket and fasteners? Bigger issue is finding the part. It looks like it's discontinued...

Already installed. Thanks.

Vehicle is a 2000 Sport with a lot of mods over the years. Still has the original Mopar radiator. Mods have included all the towing package options other than the radiator. I don't tow and don't really plan to, but having had a few parts go TU from pure age recently, I'm thinking about...

Dismounted the calipers, swapped pads, swapped calipers, bled, test and road test - all is perfect. :yay:

I'll bet you the XJ that they bolt right up. ;) There never were factory rear disk brakes for the XJ so there's no chance that these are rear calipers. If I get time, I'll try to swap them today.

A picture is worth at least 1K words...this is the right (passenger) side caliper. Or at least that's the side it's mounted on...

Thanks guys, I can't say I didn't do that - need to check. I will be :dunce: if I did, but stupider things happen. Great page on top ten mistakes installing calipers, pads and discs here: http://safebraking.com/top-ten-brake-job-mistakes-pads-rotors-calipers/

At this point nothing is silly. You mean with the bleeder above the level of the hose, right?

OK, still a bust here. I reset the combo valve - confirmed by brake light performing correctly. The piston in the valve is locked with one of those tools with the teat to prevent movement. I took up 100% of the adjustment in the rear wheels, actually locking them up tight with the star...

Yet another stupid question. I'm pretty sure that the combo switch thinks I had a rear brake circuit failure (because of how I did the first bleed). I assume that I need to wriggle the valve toward the front of the vehicle? I'm having trouble getting it to move with the paper clip (in either...

Thanks, Arnie. I just popped off the switch. Question for you: I also opened the front of the valve body (which didn't tell me much). I assume there's nothing sacred about opening up the front of the valve body and then reassembling it? It's not like this is a factory-sealed assembly...?