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There are a huge number of XJ running around but usually here in Peru you will not send a unit to a junk yard unless it really was COMPLETLY DEMOLISHED, you will not believe the cars that get rebuilt in here, but your suggestion is not bad and I'll start looking around. Thanks SACEM

Thanks MyJeepXJ. I was hoping it was not that, even thou I had the same idea that you have about the trans rebuild. The oil burned up by the clutches is as you say a sign of clutch slippage and the seal problem should be the cause of the lag in time when just started. BTW I have noticed that...

Well folks, here we are again on the same problem: The Dexron III/MERCON fluid was in just 5 weeks ago and the shifts where really fine, I have been using the XJ about 3 weeks (been 2 weeks out of the country) and it started slwly to take more time to shift into reverse, just like it was...

Try to get a mechanics stetoscope (like the ones doctors use but with a small metal cilinder at the tip, you can pin point very easily a sound by hearing the internals of your engine while it is running, good for bearings failure also. If you can not get your hands on one try this: If its the...

And a lot of them have OUTSIDE roll bars, like if they are prepared to roll over but don't want to scratch the paint, je je They told me it was because of the shrub and tree branches so that they do not hit the SUVs so hard. Got to see that in the bushes And the driving, if you miss one exit...

You are right, the only problem is that not many can interpret a voltmeter like you do. Cheers SACEM

The volt meter running near 13 V that only means that your alt was working at maximum output to cope with all the load that you had on at that moment but it does not show you anything else. I suppoe that it was cheaper for AM/DC to install a voltmeter than an Ampmeter because you can not use it...

I did not knew that XJ's were manufactured in Korea, local highway patrols bought a lot of XJs from the states here and they where, and still are many of them, very good with the heavy workload that is impossed on them. We have in Peru a lot of XJ running around, most of them from the States...

Thaks iroc86 for the explanation you have answered the question much more clearly than I would have been able. Really I deal with this things daily and know how it works but have to look up the laws that explain them. SACEM

The draw CAN be reduced if you use a heavier gage of wire than the original or if the original was being overloaded by other loads connected to it. If the wire is heavier gage then you get more effective voltage in the conection and the load (amps) are going to be less as the motor draws power...

There is a electrical control box (black rectangular plastic) at the nondriver side of the car, just behind the battery and there you'll find a set of fuses AND relays, if you have checked the fuses for continuity you will also have to check that the relays are operating correctly and switching...

You can change only the bearing inside the idler its a 6203-2RS or 6204-2RS I don't really remember but those are metric standard single row ball bearings with seals on both sides, you can get either for around 5 bucks at any bearing supplier. The rest of the idler is just plain stamped steel...

I have removed the thermostat completly since the first time it begun overheating (about 10 years ago) and never have replaced it, here the lowest temp near home is around 60ºF (15ºC) so the car is never really cold but it will warm up to op temp in about 10 min. I really don't know if that is...

It should turn off inmediatly after you turn the ignition off, if it keeps running something is not right. SACEM

The box is as kejtar said at the right side of the engine bay back of the battery, just open it by pressing the plastic latch at the rear side, look at the inner part of the lid and the position of all relays and fuses is clearly marked, you'll find for a/c, horn, ignition, AUX FAN, ABS, etc...

The control line to turn the relay that starts the fan on is neg (ground) and it comes from two different sources, one the A/C (switches on the fan when it is connected) the other one from the sensor at the front of the engine right on top of the hose conection, maybe you have a small short to...

Just reading RichP recomendations, why do´'t you take the motor from your pasenger side and put it at the drivers side, it should work and the passenger side can be set at one position, mine is never moved so maybe it works for you also. SACEM

If you put a charged battery, can be your own just recharged, and you start the engine and everything works you will be able to read the charging volts in your dashboard, if you just have idiot lights (I don't know if all came with a voltmeter) it should light, if so then you know its the...

I really don't know if its 8.8 or 10.9 but if you go by the latter you will be fitting higher tensile strenth bolts so in a general sense you can't go wrong with the latter. Just keep in mind that higher tensile strenth also mean that they are more brittle and more subject to breaking in shock...

Final UPDATE on my problem: I did what was told by all of you guys out there, and I recall: - Change the AW4 fluid to DEXRON III/MERCON - Clean the filter and pan - Purge the lines after refilling with DEXRON III - Run the car until at working temp - Change AGAIN the fluid by draining...