Recent content by Sierra Drifter

If you can't or don't want to make your own, for $289 you can order draglink and tierod with Chevy 1 ton TRE's from Foothill Offroad. They use a 60* TRE on the drag link where it attaches to the pitman arm. .25 inch wall DOM IIRC. Just give them you meassurements. I'm running it on my XJ.

This discussion comes up every couple of months and there are always lots of differing opinions. Terrain conditions such as steps and ledges will favor a front locker. However, overall if you are only going to lock one axle, a locker in the rear is prefered for several reasons. First the link...

Home made spindle boring tool..... and an electric drill, worked for me.

The thread I posted above has all the conversion u-joint info you need to get your existing driveshafts connected to the Ford D44/D60.

I don't see why not, but if you don't run high-steer then you may need the drop pitman arm. What matters is that the drag link and track bar are parallel. The amount of lift in combination with the pitman arm will determine the angle of your drag link, then you have to figure out a axle side...

I'm running the same axles, 78 F250 44/60. There are more pages of info than you really want to read here: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/rebuilding-front-dana-44-a-397243/ You don't have to make your own steering, you dont need a drop pitman arm, in fact I used a Wagoneer pitman arm...

This probably wont be any help to you, but....

I have the same axles in my XJ. Here is how I did it. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/rebuilding-front-dana-44-a-397243/ I didn't rotate the inner C's either. Rotating the C's is the correct way, but I didn't think it was worth the trouble. The 78 F250 was a fairly tall truck to start...

Cutting brakes work best with a twin sticked t-case like vetteboy is running. This allows you to run in front wheel drive only while braking one rear wheel, thus providing the sharpest possible turning radius. Rock crawling competiton vehicles utilize them because they are on very tight...

Measure from the center of the ball joint on each end and find the center of the axle. Mark the center of each axle, then take your measurements from there. Since the new axle is full width, measureing from the inner C's won't work. Measure to the center of the coil spring pads, the inside edge...

I lowered mine using a JKS shock mount that is normally used on the rear axle. It allowed me to run 14" travle Bilstien 5150s. I'm running a full width axle so there was plenty of room. On a stock axle I imagine you would have to cut off some of the stock mount and then weld the JKS mount down...

It is posible that the JKS bracket will work for you. There is enough space on the bracket to drill a new hole for the trackbar bolt a little higher or lower. Also you might be able to use a drop pitman arm to make the links parallel. It is a combination of pitman arm, trackbar axle mount and...

I'm using the JKS over the axle track bar bracket with an RE Trackbar. This issue here is that you have to keep the trackbar and draglink parallel. The JKS bracket will most likely move the trackbar to high for OTK steering. I'm using it with flattop knuckles and highsteer arms, and a flat...

I put them at the center of the tube and then latter lowered them to the bottom to recover necessary shock travel and not bottom out. JKS makes a good shock mount for this but they are pricey, $64. You can make the same thing from one leaf spring mount, cut it in half and add a bolt for the...

For me the best was my own custom highsteer, ofcourse this doesn't help you at all.....