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That what I thought till the dang local guys gave me the raybestos ones that aren't the right thickness..... any chance raybestos makes 2 versions of them or something?
Can't PM you for some reason.... ?
Anyway, I was wondering where you got the rotors? I have this kit sitting in my garage and was going to get the rotors locally but am having a hell of a time finding the .25" thick ones...
Wheel studs get pressed in and the hub/rotor are clamped by the lug...
SO could I get just the draglink and run it with my stock tierod if I wanted too? I mean. I'd replace it sooner or later, but my tierod angle is fine ... just the draglink is tight....
OK, I've asked before to no avial....
So I know the TRE that mounts to the Pitman arm (end of drag link) has a bend in it to help with the angles ... but am I hearing that the end of the draglink that mounts to the pass knuckle has a bend to aleviate angles as well? We are talking about the...
I agree...
MM kit is $580 from Sams ... delivered... you just have to tell them that is how much you are going to pay... ;)
Rotors should be at most $85 a pop.... $50 for both if you can machine them yourself....
I need new rotors anyway so this is all coming at the right time for me..... so...
Well, after my recent carnage, I know I would have liked to be able to just unlock front hubs and not have to try to do a field fix on the front diff.
I wouldn't get the hubs for milegae gains, though I you'll get slightly better mileage.... not to mention you'll have less strain on all the...
We just finished putting a 14ff on a buddy Joshs blazer ... shaved past the cover as well. As long as you leave somethign for the diff cover to bolt to you should be OK.
Not sure about the fill plug, but I'd think some measuring would answer that for you...
We converted his to disk and it...
If you do get a Sarfari, save yourself some time and don't bother with the washer fluid bottle that comes with it.... go pull one off a 95 or earlier and squeeze it in there... that's what I did....