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96 xj sport 5.3 swap

also ive decided to go clydefrogs route and reuse my jeep PS pump(wich is a WJ V8 pump) and a bmw resivoir. so i can tweak engine/trans placement a bit, after looking closely theyre stiiting a bit crooked in the "frame" and i want to raise the rear a bit. all impossivle with where my pump is currently located, the pulley clears the low preasure line by about 1/2"
 
also ive decided to go clydefrogs route and reuse my jeep PS pump(wich is a WJ V8 pump) and a bmw resivoir. so i can tweak engine/trans placement a bit, after looking closely theyre stiiting a bit crooked in the "frame" and i want to raise the rear a bit. all impossivle with where my pump is currently located, the pulley clears the low preasure line by about 1/2"
I can send you the part numbers for the reservoir and bracket. They where both pretty cheap. I have about 1/2" clearance as well from my pulley to my high pressure line, 13k miles and no issues yet.
 
Reservoir is: 32 41 6 851 217
Bracket is: 32 41 1 092 940

You can find them both on ECStuning.com prob gonna cost less than $50 shipped with tax.

It has two nipples on the bottom, one can fit a 3/8 hose for the input and the p/s pump feed nipple is .62 or 5/8. Best part is the reservoir has a built in filter.
IMG_5480.jpg
 
Reservoir is: 32 41 6 851 217
Bracket is: 32 41 1 092 940

You can find them both on ECStuning.com prob gonna cost less than $50 shipped with tax.

It has two nipples on the bottom, one can fit a 3/8 hose for the input and the p/s pump feed nipple is .62 or 5/8. Best part is the reservoir has a built in filter.
IMG_5480.jpg

thank you!

my issue is the pully size and how low it hangs with the quick braket, i figured this way would be cheapest simce the resivor was 20$ and i already have the jeep ps pump. i want to push the rear end of the transmission up a couple inches, i dont like the angle the engine/trans the way it sits, plus its sitting crooked in the engine bay all so it would clear the lines in the box, im sure there a pic in here of it

got an apointment at a body shop friday to give me an estimate on the cowl damage
 
I had to drill and cut my quick mount (which you prob already knew, I think I have a write up in my build thread, Basically cut up the mount to push the pump up about an inch). I also had to space the pump with washers until it cleared. Also my engine is slanted down a bit in the rear too, wasn't happy with it at first but it helps with airflow above the tranny and the steam vents are angled correctly to let air escape the cooling system.

Also: I used a GM pulley with the Jeep pump p/n 10166335. You can get a dorman one for pretty cheap. .75" id for the pump shaft, I'm running a later XJ pump fyi. I couldn't get the factory Jeep pulley to fit.

That's supper crappy about the hood and cowl.
 
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yea it sucks a lot

im going to wire it to where the brake switch voltage is the 12v trigger side of the starter relay. i know i could use the GM switch, but i want to make sure i'm physicly in the jeep when starting it from now on.
 
well looks like the jeeps going to have to play daily driver for a while. transmission in my moms car blew up so shes taking my jetta till we figure out what we'll do

nothing has changed really, havent had time. i am leaking coolant from some where, havent found the culprit yet
 
ordered up a smaller PS pully, new pump, right angle low pressure line adapter , annd a fan controller for the trans/ ps fluid coolers

since the jeeps on dd duty, i figure going the smaller pulley route on the "stock pump will work better for now, less down time.

going to add the ps fluid cooler whilst installing the new pump as well as the aux fan so i can get some air moving over the trans cooler
 
took the first step in fixing my vibes today, installed a reman PS pump, with a much smaller pulley( about 1.5ish inches in diameter smaller, suggestion courtesy of clydefrog) i also found this cool little cooler line adapter for the steering gear, it was for a chevy truck but both the xj and the truck both ran saginaw boxes so i figured id give it a whirl

factory gm pulley on the left:


Adapter:



i had to bend it up just a hair but it worked perfectly

Much more betters clearance:



had to get crafty pressing the new pulley on, the front of the pulley was flush with the shaft before it was in line with the belt so i had to stick the end of a 3/4" wrench in there to get it to press dow far enough, you can see where the pump shaft is sticking out past the pulley:


of course with the smaller pulley i needed to run a smaller belt...or so you would think..

the L99 water pump im using uses a giant tensioner pulley that i swapped out with the truck pulley so my current belt would fit, its the same belt i was running on the 4.0L post first e-fan conversion haha, plus with out a dd i didn't want to deal with trying to get a different belt, nearest parts store is 3miles away. any who stuck the giant pulley on there and belt length was perfect


next up with be shimming the transmission up till im happy with the angle of the dangle, then fiddling with the front pinion angle and getting 4wd working.

then setting up the a/c which im not really looking forward to( i mean the work, obviously im looking forward to having a/c again)
 
Pulley spacing looks good, glad you took my suggestion! Nothing gets the kinks worked out like using it as a DD!

true fact haha

i had planed on re using the wj pump i have still sitting on my 4.0, but i didn't want to mess with trying to adapt the jeep pump so im just using a factory o2 tahoe pump

whent and bought some steel, bolts, and a 3/8 -16 tap so i can shim the trans up and re tap the trans mount side to side.

if i have time ill install my aux fan with the adjustable fan controller for the ps/trans coolers. i have been overly worried about it since my drive to work is 8 miles. so thee trans isn't getting super hot in that time. i need to get a temp gauge plumbed into the trans lines, i switched back to scangauge for my mpg read outs but it wont tell me trans temp
 
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got the rear end shimmed up about a 1/2" and moved over a bit, vibes seem better but still present, drive shaft and pinion angle look spot on to me so maybe that shaft is out of balance?

anywho, i ended up having to weld in a the mounting holes in the trans mount so i could drill and tap new holes and not have swiss cheese. also had to completly remove the mount to i could get the long bolt thru the bushing out, tuned into a bigger project than it should have been.

in the process of moving the drivetrain around i blew out the driver side collector gasket. this is like the 3rd one ive blown out :/. i had a feeling it might throw the down tub oit of alignment but oh well, its just gonn have to be that way for another week

ill post pics later
 
what a freaking disaster, shimmed the tranny up about a 1/2" with out thinking about the very tight clearance i have on my exhaust. basically rammed the end of the down tube where the 2.5 to 3" collector starts in to the floor and it blew the header collector gaskets to smithereens. so it was extra loud, running hella rich, and running like garbage. so i just spent the last 4 hours cutting apart my down tube apart and re-welding it to fit the new drive line angle.

had to stop before i could re install the modified down tube, so ill have to get my butt up extra early to install it annd hope it fits right so i can make it too work.
 
All of ths LSXJ/MJ talk is motivating me. Especially since I potentially have a line on an LS2 for a good price.
 
ordered some replacement 7/8 heims for my 3 link, theyre getting sloppy and makig a lot of noise

also ebayed a used a/c compressor and some line adapters

the new PS pump whines a bit at 1500rpm+ but it works fine, steering feels better around town. i'm guessing that just because the pump is running faster with the smaller pulley at lower rpms.
 
the new PS pump whines a bit at 1500rpm+ but it works fine, steering feels better around town. i'm guessing that just because the pump is running faster with the smaller pulley at lower rpms.
What p/s fluid? Mine made tons of noise with Swepco. Then I tried Pentosin 202...still made noise. Only fluid that made it quite was Redline power steering fluid (and I am not a fan of Redline products) but it worked!
 
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