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Rear hatch open/ajar indicator stuck "On" in instrument cluster

1x1_Speed_Craig

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
Hey all. Let me start by saying this is a 1997 XJ, and I have done a ton of searching, as well as checked out the FSM. Rear hatch switch (built into the latch) controls the interior lights just fine, but since I got the vehicle, the "hatch ajar" indicator light on the dash has been on continuously. I pulled the latch/switch, and replaced it with one from another vehicle. No difference. Both switches turn the courtesy lights off, but not the "hatch ajar".

The switch has a plunger built into it, and when it only turns off the lights when the plunger is depressed (mechanically by the latch closing, or by hand just by depressing the plunger when the switch is removed from the latch).

Disconnecting the switch does nothing (instrument cluster light stays on), as it needs the plunger depressed to turn off the light.

Other than pulling the bulb on the instrument cluster (as recommended by other people in other threads I have stumbled upon), does anyone know what my next step would be? I already looked at the hatch wiring, particularly by the hatch/body junction, and it all appears to be in good shape.

Anyone?

Thanks,
Craig
 
Is this an original 1997 instrument cluster or a later year cluster?

I don't think the 1997 Jeep XJ has a Liftgate Ajar lamp in the cluster.

I think the Ajar lamp started in '98. I know my '99 has one.

Is your Liftgte Switch a three pin or a two pin switch. "97 had a two pin, the Ajar lamp switch has three pins.
 
Is this an original 1997 instrument cluster or a later year cluster?

I don't think the 1997 Jeep XJ has a Liftgate Ajar lamp in the cluster.

I think the Ajar lamp started in '98. I know my '99 has one.

Is your Liftgte Switch a three pin or a two pin switch. "97 had a two pin, the Ajar lamp switch has three pins.

It's stock to the best of my knowledge, but we're not the original owners. It does have a 2-pin switch stock, but I tried a 3-pin from a 2000 XJ Limited, and that didn't turn it off, either.
 
You have a broken wire in the hatch where it goes from the hatch itself to the body; on the drivers side of the hatch you will find a boot that goes from the hatch to the body, pull the boot and you will find probably more than one wire with degraded shielding on the wire. You will need to remove the panel that holds up the headliner and unplug the harness , pull the harness through the body and do your repairs, then reinstall. I ha the same exact issue, when I investigated I found one broke wire and 3-4 others that were not far behind. I feel that in super cold weather the outer casing cracks and then allows moisture in degrading the wires. I find this issue a lot in newer 94+ jeeps in the hatches and doors where they hinge.

Sorry for the novel
 
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You have a broken wire in the hatch where it goes from the hatch itself to the body; on the drivers side of the hatch you will find a boot that goes from the hatch to the body, pull the boot and you will find probably more than one wire with degraded shielding on the wire. You will need to remove the panel that holds up the headliner and unplug the harness , pull the harness through the body and do your repairs, then reinstall. I ha the same exact issue, when I investigated I found one broke wire and 3-4 others that were not far behind. I feel that in super cold weather the outer casing cracks and then allows moisture in degrading the wires. I find this issue a lot in newer 94+ jeeps in the hatches and doors where they hinge.

Sorry for the novel

Don't apologize...I appreciate the input.

I ended up pulling the bulb from the cluster yesterday ("easy" problem solved now). Since that was the only hatch issue at this point, we'll address better inspecting the wires down the road. I am still curious about the whole 2-pin vs. 3-pin switch, though. I left the original 2-pin switch in the latch when I reinstalled it.

Craig
 
Don't apologize...I appreciate the input.

I ended up pulling the bulb from the cluster yesterday ("easy" problem solved now). Since that was the only hatch issue at this point, we'll address better inspecting the wires down the road. I am still curious about the whole 2-pin vs. 3-pin switch, though. I left the original 2-pin switch in the latch when I reinstalled it.

Craig

The switch (2 pin) circuit without the liftgate ajar lamp is a single pole double throw switch that just completes the circuit to ground for the cargo lamp/switch when the liftgate is opened.

The switch (3 pin) circuit with the liftgate ajar lamp is a double pole double throw switch that not only completes the circuit to ground for the cargo lamp/switch, but completes the circuit to the intrument cluster for the ajar lamp. The wire that goes to the instrument cluster for the ajar lamp is a Tan/Black tracer wire. You wouldn't have that.

Good that you reinstalled the original 2 pin switch.
 
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