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ok guys, i am in alternator/charging hell!

Re: renix alternator not charging and bad grounding issues.

some alt systems have a 50 ohm resistor built inline in case the bulb fails so you wont lose your field exciting signal.
i think MJ's dont, but in the near future mine will. easy upgrade for reliability sake.

G
I looked over the wiring diagrams, did not see any resistor. At this point, I'm not satisfied with my research.
 
did the dash ground,and gained oil light and water temp light,and lost speedo lights . still no alt light.i think i have fixed everything it could be as far as grounds go.
anyone know how i do the wire to excite the field and bypass the truck wiring?
 
did the dash ground,and gained oil light and water temp light,and lost speedo lights . still no alt light.i think i have fixed everything it could be as far as grounds go.
anyone know how i do the wire to excite the field and bypass the truck wiring?
If you have voltage at the field wires, you need to ground the wire that would feed the light. Stick to your plan of running a parallel wire, with a 50 Ohm resistor, to ground
 
Re: Re: ok guys, i am in alternator/charging hell!

If you have voltage at the field wires, you need to ground the wire that would feed the light. Stick to your plan of running a parallel wire, with a 50 Ohm resistor, to ground

That's not correct. Read my post above. The excite wire needs to come from a switched 12v, hot in run and start, through a bulb or resistor then to the alt.
 
Re: Re: ok guys, i am in alternator/charging hell!

did the dash ground,and gained oil light and water temp light,and lost speedo lights . still no alt light.i think i have fixed everything it could be as far as grounds go.
anyone know how i do the wire to excite the field and bypass the truck wiring?

Can you not see my post? I spelled it out ( I thought) pretty plainly how to wire a CS alternator in my post above.


Connect the F and L as I describe, and it will charge.
 
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Even easier
Yellow wire connects ignition 1.

(Ignition 1 is hot during key position run and start.)

Tan wire also connects to ignition 1 but has a light or resistor in—line.


Easy peasey
 
thank digger i ll try this at lunch and see how it goes. this is wearing me down UGH. can i use as a temp light, a 194 license plate bulb and holder ?

thanks



Even easier
Yellow wire connects ignition 1.

(Ignition 1 is hot during key position run and start.)

Tan wire also connects to ignition 1 but has a light or resistor in—line.


Easy peasey
 
well after going thru this.....lmao i switched back to the new alt and made some wiring changes...it charges! i wired it separate from the harness and boom! it works. and no i wont show you the mess of wires under the hood...i ll clean it up and make it neat over the weekend.
i assume the problem is in the wiring or is in fact a burned out bulb. but i like my solution as it removes the truck from the equation.
thanks digger and everyone !
 
FYI - I'm mentally and emotionally exhausted just from reading this thread.

Carry on.
 
muhahahahaha
i am all done and OUT of alternator hell :p i had a defective alternator.
so let me explain what i did for my wiring.
my alt--
typical ac delco used on jeeps. this one with internal regulator--
i used junkyard plug--
and made ground cable from alt case to NEG/ground--
that makes sure the battery and engine are grounded
and the POS cable from the relay by the battery, i removed that, and removed it from the battery clamp.
temp added a voltage gauge to the alt POS and the ground i added. So I can see what the voltage is from the alternator-
disconnected the yellow from the truck harness.it is a black one wire plug.
so it goes in this order yellow wire from the plug (was switched wire from harness before i disconnected it) to the POS on alternator, then to the POS on the battery.
then --NEG on alt case to NEG on battery
dont forget to add a new cable to the relay by the battery, to the POS on your battery.that powers your truck.
then-brown wire from plug to 194 bulb(with 50 ohm resistor) joined parallel to each other then join to the POS cable/clamp.the resistor is there so if the bulb burns out, the alt still thinks the bulb is there and working.
last move should be adding the POS cable back to the battery.
when all this is joined, the 194 bulb should light up.
start your vehicle and the bulb should go off. This is the charging light as we usually see on our dash.
This is so far an emergency situation for me, the charging is removed from the truck wiring harness and all it's ground issues.


I am going to clean up the wiring and keep this as is. There are two things to do to make this permanent. One is the wire that has the light needs to be fed to a switch that is off when key is off,and powered on when key is on. You could also do a toggle in a convenient spot. On to charge and off to shut it off at shutdown of engine.
Second is locate the light, 194 or whatever you want as your alt light in the place that works for you.


And there you have it. i have a pic of this setup assembled on a bench from the interwebz. cont figure out how to post it.LOL damn !
 
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If you have the yellow wire on a non switched circuit the alt will drain the battery with the engine off.

Wire it to the ign 1. If you forget to turn off the toggle you'll be sorry.
 
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