• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

transporting water, your ideas?

I would plan on carrying water as close to the ground as possible, for reasons Oatmeal outlined.

If you do decide to put it on the roof though, I would use black ABS pipe, it'll warm the water for you... if you set up an onboard air system, you can use it to pressurize the tank if you plan things correctly, so you can use a water saving shower head and get a longer shower but still clean up well.
 
I had been using thr solar shower bag for over a year, gravity fed shower head- not too bad.
with a CO tank I could easily make a pressurized water system. I had that in mind when I thought of this pvc pipe thing.
but thanks.
 
I'm not super comfy with putting it on top.. But for light wheeling I might consider it. I tend to get the ball funk after a few days of no showers in the wilderness, so a quick rinse sounds like It may be worth it.
 
I completely understand the weight thing up high... COG.
But on the beaches... just off a kayak, far from running water and hours from home, the shower out weighs the risk LOL
 
I completely understand the weight thing up high... COG.
But on the beaches... just off a kayak, far from running water and hours from home, the shower out weighs the risk LOL
 
what about one of the flat tanks? like for an atv rack? i dont know the dimensions but it may even fit under the cross bars up top, then you could drill and bolt through the cross bar to mount it?

just an idea WAAAAAY off from what your wanting to do, haha

but, at least its made for water use in the sun and outdoors
 
the problem I'll have with this
sb_1_g_6h0_1_ph.jpg

I want to mount the pipe on both cross bars so it's long wise and has the least wind resistance. But VERY close to what I'm aiming for- thanks!

The square part has a whole in it for a bolt. If you bolted it to one cross bar and a second one to another cross bar it would work. They do make them for rigid pvc. Just a thought. The only thing that worry's me is the weight shifting back and forth on the clamp. It would have to be trial and error and you would want to keep an eye out for fatigue.
 
Not that I would be opposed to drinking the water... if its going to be on a roof getting warm, I wouldn't want it to be my primary source; but still potable enough to drink if I HAD to.

I think Ice has a good point too. What happens when you deplete some of your supply, and it starts sloshing back and forth like a deadblow hammer.

You can always boil/treat/filter it after it comes out...
 
asked my dad to get his opinion (master plumber for 20+ years) said as long as you paint the pipe it wont get too brittle from direct sunlight. The thing he brought up was that PVC pipe is technically for waste/grey water. ABS PEX COPPER and CPVC are for potable not sure which you will go with but i would do the CPVC. Most of the time when you see a "pvc pipe" coming to your house for freshwater it normally just contains a 1" CPVC or PEX inner pipe and the outside large pipe is just a conduit. Main water lines are typically concrete or the blueish grey polypropylene which my father says is UV resistant and would be perfect for the use you described

for reference
stock-photo-horizontal-blue-plumbing-pipes-94638316.jpg
 
I hate to argue with a master plumber but PVC is approved for and used for the transmission for potable water pretty much everywhere. The ABS pipe you buy at the hardware store is generally for DWV use. However, ABS is non-toxic and can be used in potable water systems.

CPVC has a higher temperature rating than PVC and can be used in residential hot water systems. I did this once years ago in our first floor area that was used primarily as a shop and storage at the time. While we were away from home the hot water heater thermostat malfunctioned causing overheat and melted CPVC -- one helluva mess and the end of using the stuff for me...only copper inside the house.

Apparently ABS will not get brittle with exposure to sun but will soften to some extent. I assume this would not be a problem for the use envisioned by the OP .

I have never used PEX but have seen it installed on TV shows. No question that it is great stuff and I assume ultimately the future of indoor plumbing. It is susceptible to UV degradation and must be run in a conduit for exterior use which obviates it's inherent advantages for use in plumbing inside structures.
 
solder together a copper cage for the jeep and fill it with water.
Something like this.
DSCN5815.jpg
 
I carry 2x2 gallon Rotopax, on top or below 2x3 gallon Rotopax fuel packs.

The whole thing is mounted on the rotopax universal mount, which is bolted to the roof rack and locked.

A bit expensive but very modular. I can carry double the fuel on top (12Gal) and put the water jugs inside the back - they are mounted to what used to be the spare wheel mount support... You can see some fuel packs on the rack in this picture...

139950d1346027389-98-xj-limited-search-rescue-build-imag0114.jpg
 
A guy I work with has had unpainted PVC water tanks for drinking water when bear hunting (more like dog chasing) on his Dakota for like 7 years. Its parked outside year around and he hasn't had a problem with the PVC degrading.
 
I would like to suggest using Sched 40, some new fuel cell foam, and wrapping the pipe with 10 mil black tape made for wrapping PVC for UV.

For mounting you could use some aluminum half height uni-strut and unistrut staps.

If you wanted to pressurize the tank you could use a shrader valve and just pump it up to about 80psi - might be good to have a popoff just in case. What's sched 40 rated for? 115psi?

Cool idea.
 
I've done a bunch of shopping, good news. Looks like I can afford this project but I'm still in the dark on safely mounting the pvc...
Three places I've been to have no suggestions on mounting.

As for pressurizing, $20 for a Schrader Valve Assembly, Yeeesh...
 
Back
Top