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The Nail Salon

TORX - any idea how much those 1/4 guards weigh?
Also, have you seen JCR's new 'slider skins' for the rockers?
What do you think of THAT?!
 
TORX - any idea how much those 1/4 guards weigh?
Also, have you seen JCR's new 'slider skins' for the rockers?
What do you think of THAT?!

Those look badass, but I would think for our terrain they wouldn't protect the rest of the body. One nice thing oboist sliders here esp with the extra bar it helps protect the doors and glass from low exposes roots and rocks

But I definately like the looks of these
 
Those look badass, but I would think for our terrain they wouldn't protect the rest of the body. One nice thing oboist sliders here esp with the extra bar it helps protect the doors and glass from low exposes roots and rocks

But I definately like the looks of these

Really good points.
I wonder though, if they could be used like sliders for a high lift, or would they crease/bend?
 
thank you, torx!
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TORX - any idea how much those 1/4 guards weigh?
Also, have you seen JCR's new 'slider skins' for the rockers?
What do you think of THAT?!
Guards weigh in at approximately 15lbs each.

The "Ultimate Sliders" are a cool concept, but I'm really curious how they would hold up under serious trail use. I think for a mild wheeler they would work fine. However, I just can't see the rocker staying intact when the weight of the Jeep is slammed down on it. It may be 3/16" but it's still bolted to 20 gauge sheet metal. The version with the stand off bar would probably hold up pretty well. One benefit is the clearance they offer. Almost like running rocker replacements.

thank you, torx!
Nice! It might be ghetto, but it works.
 
Got the lights mounted on the JCR's. Definitely not a "bolt on" job. I'm not one to complain about a little fitment issue, but in this case none of the lights fit without modification. I had to re-drill the pattern on the brake/tail light. Then up the hole size and do a bit of filing on the side marker and turn signals.
P1070293.jpg


Eventually got them to fit to my liking. You can see the stock pattern on the brake light, and how I had to drill a new pattern to fit the guards.
P1070295.jpg


I removed the stock tail lights, and was pleased to find late models not only label the lights, but also the wiring. Wiring the LED's should be a no brainer.
P1070304.jpg


In order for the JCR's to seat correctly, I had to remove the rear bumper end caps. This was a simple task of two bolts, and sliding the end caps off their mounts.

Then I had to remove the rear fender flares. I started loosening the mounting hardware. Like most fender flare bolts they weren't going to come off in one piece. I managed to loosen them enough to slide the JCR's behind them.

After everything was out of the way the guards could be fitted up. I marked the first hole to be drilled, and paced around the garage for the next 30 minutes trying to talk myself into drilling into the body. Commitment.
P1070307.jpg


Continued on, and eventually got all the holes drilled and hardware installed. Honestly not too impressed with the fit, but what do you expect from a mass produced product. They're bent on a brake vertically, but the length wise body line isn't taken into account. This leaves a small gap in the middle.
P1070309.jpg


With the guards bolted into place, I moved onto wiring the LED's. Turn signals were pretty straight forward with a ground and power wire. With the LED's you need to convert to an electronic flasher otherwise your blinkers will act like they're on meth.
P1070315.jpg


I turned on the hazards, and followed the clicking to track down the flasher. Of course it had to be located up in the dash where my hands barely fit.
P1070313.jpg


Success.
P1070323.jpg


Next was wiring the side marker and tail/brake light. Late models only use one plug for this, so some splicing needed to be done. I shared the tail light power and ground for the side marker.
P1070324.jpg


Success.
P1070325.jpg


At this point I pulled the guards back off, RTV'd around the bolt holes, and wrapped up the wiring.
P1070329.jpg


Cover plates took some filing to get them to fit.
P1070331.jpg


Got the bumper end caps put back on, and the flares reinstalled. Project complete.
P1070334.jpg


The paint in the day light is pretty close to the factory. I'm really happy with how they "blend in" to the body.
P1070335.jpg


Overall, I'm satisfied with the turn out. They're super stout, and I have no doubt they'll protect the rear quarters. Now I'm kind of itching to make an Evans Creek run...
 
Those look nice, you should have brought them up to the shop. I could have shot some real paint on them instead of rattle can.

:roflmao:.looks good dustin. i wondered what you would do for the wireing. i used inline resistors to keep things simple. im suprised you dident knotice, the round lights are mounted upside down. i was displeased with the craftsmanship all around aswell. but what do you do. they are going to end up in the trees...
 
Dustin never use RVT on sheet metal. We use to have customers try to fix a leakey front windshield on their own with some good old RVT. Usually by the time they gave up and brought the car to our glass shop it would be to rusty for us to fix. RVT retains water like a women on her period. Thats one of the reasons urethane is used to glue in windsheild it doesnt retain water. I used it after I cut and folded my rear quarter panel lip, after 4 years and pleanty of snow and water there is no rust.

Looking good Dustin are you ready for some snow? Is there any left?
 
The Nail Salon needed a little bit of Jeepforceone on it. I smashed the gas filler door on it during the Yacolt Burn's BFGoodrich Outstanding Trail tour day. I was always proud to tell the story of that dent since it was done wheeling in the Yacolt Burn legally. Not too many people can say that.
IMG_0063.jpg


It was one of the few parts I saved from the old Jeep. I figured it deserved to swapped over to the Nail Salon after color matching it.
P1070345.jpg


Again, it's the little things that I enjoy during a build.
 
This weekend was the maiden voyage for the Nail Salon. Did a snow run on Saturday, and it performed amazing. I finally could justify the money/time I've put into this thing. It all payed off.
IMG_0060.jpg


The Coopers did well in the snow. For not being broken in I was happy with how they aired down. I took them down to 5psi (my usual snow PSI), and left them there the whole day. I was very pleased with how they hooked up in the snow. They didn't dig, but when you lost traction you could get them bite in and pull you back on top of the snow. Detroit's worked just like they're suppose to, and it was nice to have the 2Low option again.
IMG_0075.jpg


Suspension worked good. Springs are definitely stiffer than my old Rubicon Express springs. Shocks and springs seemed to work good on the wash board/ pot hole forest service roads. Even got to flex it out a bit on BPB's MJ.
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Overall it was a great shake down run. :thumbup:
 
I like that pic right there..... Did the cooper's see any mud? I'm curious to see how they'd clean out. Great update, how was the Yacolt Burn run?
 
I like that pic right there..... Did the cooper's see any mud? I'm curious to see how they'd clean out. Great update, how was the Yacolt Burn run?

I've had the stt's in the mud and IMO they did really well. Always seemed to clean out well. Only time I ever had an issue was from a dead stop in Vw clay.
 
With the guards bolted into place, I moved onto wiring the LED's. Turn signals were pretty straight forward with a ground and power wire. With the LED's you need to convert to an electronic flasher otherwise your blinkers will act like they're on meth.
P1070315.jpg

Hey TORX, a couple questions for you:
How and where did you find this information?
Do you have a part number for the electronic flasher?
What does it do differently?
 
Did the cooper's see any mud? I'm curious to see how they'd clean out. Great update, how was the Yacolt Burn run?
Just gravel and snow on this trip. Only mud they will see will be on trails, and hopefully we're past that season. Not a big fan of the mud. I expect them to perform like any radial MT.

You can read about the Yacolt Burn project and BFG tour in the Dec 2010 issue of 4WD Magazine. It still ranks as one of my top five most memorable trips I've been on.
http://www.vdocshop.com/doc/apv-publishing-inc/4wdjan011ezine/2011022201/#38

Hey TORX, a couple questions for you:
How and where did you find this information?
Do you have a part number for the electronic flasher?
What does it do differently?
Dellstopjeep told me about the flasher relay being needed when running LED's. After doing some searching on NAXJA I discovered he was in fact telling the truth.

If you search around you can find some #'s. I think they all basically come down to a, #727. Any parts store should be able to look it up for you in their brand.

The LED's use a different amount of power than the stock bulbs. So when you use your signals they will blink much quicker than stock. To get the stock timing back, you need an electronic flasher. It's not required, but the tweeker style blinker would have drove me insane. Someone might be able to explain the differences between the two a little better.
 
With the 4.56's and 33's my speedometers been off ~14%. This wasn't acceptable, so I looked on GoJeep's website to see which speedo gear I needed.

http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSpeedoGears.htm

Turns out FiveNDime had one he wasn't using. My stock 34 tooth next to the 39 tooth.
P1070349.jpg


You can usually pick these up online for around $40, or if you're lucky find a used one for cheaper.
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Pop the speedo housing off the t-case, install the new gear, and orient the housing to correspond with the new tooth count.
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Just gravel and snow on this trip. Only mud they will see will be on trails, and hopefully we're past that season. Not a big fan of the mud. I expect them to perform like any radial MT.
Yea, i'm not a huge fan of the mud either... Hard to avoid living in the N.W.... And the unique properties of the clay we have around here makes it that much more appealing to avoid. I'm hopefully going to be stepping up to 33's this summer, and haven't yet decided the direction I want to go. Kind like you, I was thinking of going with something a little different than what everyone else is running.
You can read about the Yacolt Burn project and BFG tour in the Dec 2010 issue of 4WD Magazine. It still ranks as one of my top five most memorable trips I've been on.
http://www.vdocshop.com/doc/apv-publishing-inc/4wdjan011ezine/2011022201/#38
Just read that article, looks like it was a spectacular trip! Wish I could've been a part of that. I can see (by the few pics in that) as to why you hold that experience with such high regard. Although I don't make it too many Piston's Wild meetings, I try to stay in touch with Crystal Crowder a couple times a year, and support the cause when and where I can. I'm anxious to see the trails in person whenever they are open for public use.
 
Suspension worked good. Springs are definitely stiffer than my old Rubicon Express springs. Shocks and springs seemed to work good on the wash board/ pot hole forest service roads.
So you're pretty happy with the springs and leafs so far? I'm still looking at getting a set of those leafs, and maybe even some coils as well. Are the leafs flexing pretty good? How did your shackle angle come out and about how much lift did they net?
 
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