GrimmJeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gardena, CA
I did this today in about an hour and half, both sides will take you about 3 hours if you don't screw around. i did a quick hack job on the last jeep but i took my time on this one and it came out looking much much better.
I also kept the mounting tabs for my rear flares, we'll see how they hold up. so here we go:
first remove the stock flare. usually all the studs snap off, but if you're careful you might be able to save them. i was not.
Here's my cutting setup, cheapo harbor freight drill and cutoff wheels. i got the 2 year extended warranty and only use this drill for cutting and grinding. this is my third one and they just keep giving me new ones dont use a drill you like for cutting things, it burns the motor up pretty good.
i marked the spot welds to help keep them visible so I wouldn't cut through them. if you cut through the spot welds the body will peel apart at the fenderwells, in case you don't know, that's bad.
this line is the furthest you want to cut, try to stay around an 1/8th inch below that line in the fender opening.
these areas at the front and rear are triple layers of steel and bent at weird angles. we'll make special cuts there.
any time you use harbor freight tools keep this handy, you might need it. I didn't (this time) but keep it within arms reach when you're working.
first cut, this is the furthest you want to go upwards.
continue along the top edge, spacing the cuts around the flare mounting holes, and the spot welds. try to make the cuts no more than 2 inches apart.
along the curves, try to make the cuts closer together. this will make for a much cleaner edge when it comes time to break out the hammer. the more cuts you make the smoother the edge will be.
its hard to see here, but above the lowest spot weld i cut in from the side, and there is another cut coming up from the bottom to seperate the part we are going to fold from the bracing that is hanging down a bit here.
continued...
I also kept the mounting tabs for my rear flares, we'll see how they hold up. so here we go:
first remove the stock flare. usually all the studs snap off, but if you're careful you might be able to save them. i was not.
Here's my cutting setup, cheapo harbor freight drill and cutoff wheels. i got the 2 year extended warranty and only use this drill for cutting and grinding. this is my third one and they just keep giving me new ones dont use a drill you like for cutting things, it burns the motor up pretty good.
i marked the spot welds to help keep them visible so I wouldn't cut through them. if you cut through the spot welds the body will peel apart at the fenderwells, in case you don't know, that's bad.
this line is the furthest you want to cut, try to stay around an 1/8th inch below that line in the fender opening.
these areas at the front and rear are triple layers of steel and bent at weird angles. we'll make special cuts there.
any time you use harbor freight tools keep this handy, you might need it. I didn't (this time) but keep it within arms reach when you're working.
first cut, this is the furthest you want to go upwards.
continue along the top edge, spacing the cuts around the flare mounting holes, and the spot welds. try to make the cuts no more than 2 inches apart.
along the curves, try to make the cuts closer together. this will make for a much cleaner edge when it comes time to break out the hammer. the more cuts you make the smoother the edge will be.
its hard to see here, but above the lowest spot weld i cut in from the side, and there is another cut coming up from the bottom to seperate the part we are going to fold from the bracing that is hanging down a bit here.
continued...