which prop valve block for 95/96 booster/mc swap

[ehall]

The prop valve block on my 91 is already plumbed to everything but is too far back to work with the 95 master cylinder plumbing (which has the block on a sub-bracket attached to the MC). So I either keep the old one and the body plumbing intact or I use the new one and make unions to join the body plumbing. Just curious which one people have favored in the upgrade.

 

[badron]

The only reason to change the prop valve is when the rear drum to disk conversion is preformed. Else run the stocker.

 

[NW-ZJ-SCOTT]

I used the stock block

 

[xjtrailrider]

I used the stock block, you can pull it forward enough to clear the new booster and then you only have 2 lines to re-plumb.

Check this post out starting on page 2, post #17.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1020670&page=2&highlight=booster+swap

 

[ehall]

Well this is getting really messy. The 95 MC uses metric fittings, but the prop block uses SAE, and worse is that they are all different sizes (M12 to 7/16 on one line, and M10 to 1/2 on the other). Meanwhile the stock prop block looks like it uses something else, maybe 3/8 from eyeball but the head feels metric. It gets complex and expensive trying to do all the adapters so I think I am just going to union the existing lines together.

 

[OverlandZJ]

I bought the adapters listed in this thread when i did the conversion.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63067&highlight=prop+valve

 

[shelbyluvv]

I bought two 20" lines from NAPA with the bubble flare on both ends.

Cut the bubble of one end, remove bubble fitting, replace with your standard flare fitting, flare line, bend and install.

Do this for both lines. I had a total of $12 in the mod.

 

[bigalpha]

When I put the new booster/prop valve in the MJ, I couldn't get the line to flare properly (nor could another guy that lives around here, nor could the guys at either parts store).

 

[89xj]

I bought two 20" lines from NAPA with the bubble flare on both ends.

Cut the bubble of one end, remove bubble fitting, replace with your standard flare fitting, flare line, bend and install.

Do this for both lines. I had a total of $12 in the mod.

x2, this is what i did when i did the wj booster/master swap on my 89.

i practised a few times making the double flare before doing it on a actual line that was used.

 

[shelbyluvv]

When I put the new booster/prop valve in the MJ, I couldn't get the line to flare properly (nor could another guy that lives around here, nor could the guys at either parts store).

Was this on the stock tubing? The factory stainless is next to impossible to flare. The NAPA lines are thinner and flare a lot easier.

 

[ehall]

Thanks guys, I looked at all my options right after posting and eventually ended up going to the mechanic that helped with the powertrain swap and they made up a pair of 12" lines with the right fittings and flares. They only charged me $10 for the both. Got everything done this afternoon