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Is this a header or manifold?

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30777/10002/-1

I can post a picture of what I have later today. I have the APN Manifold with the Walker Down pipe (does not have the dent). Then I have this junction followed my a high flow cat, Flowmaster Supper 44 with custom bending to dump it out back.
 
What is a walker downpipe? I just have the APN from the link and that is it right now. I have to have this universal flew joint welded do I not? Is there a cheaper one I can get that is good as well? Finally, can it be purchased at a place like AutoZone?
 
from what i understood a manifold is stock or OEM. and a header is aftermarket/performance

get the APN its awesome and easy to install. dont worry about gas mileage...ur driving a jeep lol

I disagree, some of those bolts are a bitch.
 
The down pipe is the junction from the manifold to the cat. The OEM one has a dent in the middle of the pipe to give plenty of clearance when "bottoming" your suspension out. if you have more then 2" of lift you don't need that dent.

The walker down pipe is a OEM replacement that does not have a dent to restrict air flow. The APN manifold connects right up to the stock down pipe using the aluminium crush sleeve.

Any of the bolts are a PITA to get to, I installed my whole system in under 5 hours and 3 hours of that was cleaning the intake manifold and mating surface to the head.

www.RockAuto.com is your friend. They have good parts and cheap prices and fair shipping charges.


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Mine might look a little funky, I am going from 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 at the junction from the down pipe to flex section.
 
Actually, I think the OP should listen to the muffler shop guys, rather than a bunch of XJ nuts that eat, sleep, drink, and work on XJs every freaking day of the year.

Yep, listen to the muffler dudes, they will do you right! :doh:
 
5-90:

"He heard the bolt in the door's lock move, so he had to abandon the screw and jump out the window."

Do I win?
 
5-90:

"He heard the bolt in the door's lock move, so he had to abandon the screw and jump out the window."

Do I win?

*snerk*

I got good at going out a second-storey window starkers and hitting the ground fully dressed when I was much younger, y'know?

Not the right answer, but I'll give you points for style!
 
Another example - what's the difference between a "bolt" and a "screw?" I'll give you guys some time to hash it out before I tell you...

IIRC the difference between a bolt and screw is the length of the threaded portion of the fastener. a bolt has a threaded length of up to 3x the bolts diamiter where a screw has threads longer than that up to the length of the fastener not including the head (i dont recall if the threads have to go the length of the fastener or not). ie bolt vs. cap screw

I disagree, some of those bolts are a bitch.
not really. remove the airbox and ps pump bracket (move the ps pump out of the way but still connected and upright). then use what ever combination of socket extentions and flex joints works for the situation. you may have to use the flex in between some of the extentions. i have pulled two 99+ intake mannies and an 00 exhaust manifold (the manifold itself is cast iron then runs to tube to the pre-cats and tube there on unlike earlier xj stock tubular manifolds) in the last month at the junkyard and have done the apn headder on my heep and will add the 99+ intake to her shortly.

Actually, I think the OP should listen to the muffler shop guys, rather than a bunch of XJ nuts that eat, sleep, drink, and work on XJs every freaking day of the year.

Yep, listen to the muffler dudes, they will do you right! :doh:

true. i mean we have never even ran into a project involving that. the muffler shop would never be out to just sell their product and services:D
 
5-90:
could the difference between a screw and a bolt is that a bolt requires a "matched" receiver with the same thread pitch, size, and number of threads per inch to work. Most bolts also use either a some sort of hex head or alen receiver in the head. Bolts also have the ability to act as a receiver for nuts.

Screws on the other hand do not need a matched receiver and do not act as a receiver for nuts. They also usually have either a Philips or flat head for fastening, however many kinds of screws for different uses can also have hex, secure star, star or other such ways of fastening.

A =Venn diagram is needed....
 
I disagree, some of those bolts are a bitch.

And if you have a 1999 model, some modifying of the intake manifold will be required to get the APN header they show for the 1999 model to work, as I learned the other day. Approx. 1/8" of the #6 tube on the intake manifold will need to be shaved off in order for it to seat properly. Hopefully it won't be too bad of a job when I dig into it within the next couple of weeks.
 
which should i get for a STOCK and a Daily Driver XJ? (either of those I still will add a piece of flex pipe)

2aad72b584.jpg

$82.90

OR

20009_L.jpg

$150

Id rather the cheaper one but really worth the extra $70? I want MPG and good driviability and last long as I own it, not really looking to get more power to go faster or anything as that.
 
Well, the engineers on here will probably have a better answer for you, but here is how I see it:

Those fancy accordion pleats are cute, but as the XJ tends to crack the header down by the flange to the downpipe, they probably aren't as effective as they could be. Wrong answer for the problem.

On the other hand, the APN is quite robust in the area by the flange, and that is why they are better, IMHO.

Adding in a section of stainless steel flex pipe between the downpipe and the CAT to relieve stress on the exhaust system makes sense with either setup.

All of that said, there are certain things you should not go cheap on--your fiancee's engagement ring, brakes, condoms, clutches, work boots, headers, and a few more but I'm out of time.
 
I will think about it a bit. All I know is I NEED a header as a piece of the manifold is about to fall out! its so loose. i dont know what the hell holding it in there based on how loose it is.
 
Well guys, I installed it; it took 7 hours for a guy with no experience to do this. Here's a quick recap for those of you who are in my boat or just want to laugh along at a manifold virgin.

Didn't get the flex pipe because I can't afford it right now; I'll keep it in mind for the future though since it goes on in a pretty simple spot to get to. What does the installation how-to consist of?

Firstly, the gasket that came with it was, indeed, crummy and frayed. Had to waste an hour or more going to the parts store to get another one. Do yourself a favor and just buy a Felpro before-hand like somebody here said.

Removed the wires and the air filter assembly; easy

The manifold bolts were not too bad to get off, but getting the belt pulley off takes a while when you don't remove the fan. :)

The pain started because I got hindered by a stripped bolt at the downpipe flange that I had to buzz through with the shop's tiny saw that didn't quite fit in. I hadn't lifted the vehicle at all because I thought I'd save some time. Do yourself a favor, just lift the darn thing a few feet off the ground when you do this. That bolt took at least a half hour cause I couldn't move or see right and because it was so tight to begin with.

The intake manifold: make sure you get it perfectly flush. It hung up a few times just slightly enough not to notice on the two metal dowels sticking out of the engine underneath.

The worst part was the center bolt underneath the intake manifold. This new design allows for no torquing of that damn thing because a pipe is in the way; consequently, I was leaking exhaust after I put the whole thing together at that bolt.

Do yourself a favor, lift it up a few feet after you remove everything. It'll save you quite some time. And torque those bolts FT...really f-ing tight. I followed the specs I was given by some car site that this shop is a member of, and all the bolts were too loose because of it. Had to redo all of them cause I was stinking up the shop with my exhaust.

No bolts broke in; I was amazed. Have a strange whiring (almost a cyclic tick sound) noise now, especially at low speeds (or at least most noticeable there) but I don't think it is a leak. There is no way I could torque those bolts any tighter. I'll have to check it out again on Thursday when the shop is open again.

Thanks guys!

B
 
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which should i get for a STOCK and a Daily Driver XJ? (either of those I still will add a piece of flex pipe)

2aad72b584.jpg

$82.90

OR

20009_L.jpg

$150

Id rather the cheaper one but really worth the extra $70? I want MPG and good driviability and last long as I own it, not really looking to get more power to go faster or anything as that.


They are connected to the same flange so I don't see how that allows for movement.... And then welded to another runner just inches on the other side of the "flex". Its junk IMOP. The APN has a life time warranty, so if it does brake then you can get a replacement for free (just a few hours of our own labor)

I have not had an issue with the gasket that came with it... I have no exhaust leaks and every thing is good... perhaps I was just lucky.
 
I was told by my mom " you get what you pay for" so I went with the APN ones, hope it is good as it sound.
 
while I work on this, I will replace the bad engine mount and might add a chain to keep the engine down to prevent excessive torquing so that should help also
 
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