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91 4.0 going to propane

stevej21

NAXJA Forum User
Location
woodland
I'm having way too many wiring issues so now its time to ditch the EFI. Found a complete kit to run the propane, but I need to know what dist. to get. I want to go with HEI,so is there anything I can get at a wrecking yard that I can swap in? Or maybe an aftermarket ignition that is reasonably priced? Not sure how many people have done this, but any help or suggestions would be great.

Steve
 
go for it. propane is really reliable and also keep in mind it is 110+ octane so you will have to play with your timing

also propane is normally stored at high pressure, so most of the propane has turned into liquid. When the propane comes out of the tank as a vapor it absorbs a tremendous amount of heat. It gets super cold by the time it gets to the propane carb. This is why it has to go through a heater in the regulator/mixer/etc. This is why the hot water out of the motor is used to fully vaporize the gas and to prevent icing up of the intake at the propane carb - otherwise the vapor would freeze water out of the air coming into the motor and quickly clog up the intake. So, I'd have to disagree about the lower temperature thermostat, you need as much heat in the motor as possible (plus a propane motor becomes more efficient at higher temperature).

one of the upsides of propane is it has less carbon molecules in it than gasoline. Carbon is what turns oil black and condenses into sludge. Consequently, oil in propane motors stays VERY clean, and propane motors wear much less than gasoline motors do.

The one side effect of the "clean fuel" on propane motors is that the valves tend to burn up quickly (stock valves and seats) because propane doesn't provide lubrication to the valve and valve seats like gasoline does. This can often be taken care of by installing hardened seats and hi-temp exhaust valves. Even the "unleaded" motors that came with hardened seats (since 73-ish) still have trouble with valves using propane fuel, so it is usually necessary to install something like Stellite seats in the exhaust to keep the seats from receding. Intakes do not need hardened seats because they are cooled and somewhat lubed by the incoming intake charge.
 
go for it. propane is really reliable and also keep in mind it is 110+ octane so you will have to play with your timing

also propane is normally stored at high pressure, so most of the propane has turned into liquid. When the propane comes out of the tank as a vapor it absorbs a tremendous amount of heat. It gets super cold by the time it gets to the propane carb. This is why it has to go through a heater in the regulator/mixer/etc. This is why the hot water out of the motor is used to fully vaporize the gas and to prevent icing up of the intake at the propane carb - otherwise the vapor would freeze water out of the air coming into the motor and quickly clog up the intake. So, I'd have to disagree about the lower temperature thermostat, you need as much heat in the motor as possible (plus a propane motor becomes more efficient at higher temperature).
So... any thoughts on a distributor I should use?
one of the upsides of propane is it has less carbon molecules in it than gasoline. Carbon is what turns oil black and condenses into sludge. Consequently, oil in propane motors stays VERY clean, and propane motors wear much less than gasoline motors do.

The one side effect of the "clean fuel" on propane motors is that the valves tend to burn up quickly (stock valves and seats) because propane doesn't provide lubrication to the valve and valve seats like gasoline does. This can often be taken care of by installing hardened seats and hi-temp exhaust valves. Even the "unleaded" motors that came with hardened seats (since 73-ish) still have trouble with valves using propane fuel, so it is usually necessary to install something like Stellite seats in the exhaust to keep the seats from receding. Intakes do not need hardened seats because they are cooled and somewhat lubed by the incoming intake charge.

So... Any thoughts on a distributor I should use?
 
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I don't see why you should use anythng other than stock. I am not familiar with propane but the stock ignition is a very good system and when using gas it is a poor investment to upgrade.
 
I don't see why you should use anythng other than stock. I am not familiar with propane but the stock ignition is a very good system and when using gas it is a poor investment to upgrade.


I think he is looking to do away with the wiring and computer associated with the stock ignition/fuel system. Its basically like converting from EFI to carb.

The old 258s ran a motorcraft dist. and a lot of people converted em to GM HEI....that may be a place to start since the 258 is the same design and it was a carb setup.
 
I think he is looking to do away with the wiring and computer associated with the stock ignition/fuel system. Its basically like converting from EFI to carb.

The old 258s ran a motorcraft dist. and a lot of people converted em to GM HEI....that may be a place to start since the 258 is the same design and it was a carb setup.
exactly... thats prob your best bet.
 
Thanks guys. So the 258 dist would would be a direct swap? and the gm hei would need the cam gear swapped then it will go right in? would the gear off my stock dist work on the gm dist?
 
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