2 row or 3 row radiator

I bought a cheap replacement radiator for my 98 XJ 3 months ago. It was 89.00. Plastic tanks, you guys know the deal with those.
Anyway, the piece of garbage is starting to develop a slow leak, which I am sure will escalate to a large one, just like the OEM one did.

Radiatorbarn.com has 2 row all metal for 130 bucks, or a 3 row for 165 shipped.
Is the 3 row worth it? I am moving south to VA Beach in a month and it gets really hot there. And I ALWAYS use the AC.

Your thoughts please.
Thank you everyone.

Virginia Beach isn't really that hot. Try Arizona, New Mexico, or parts of LA lately. Any problems overheating with the current one? Anyway, if you are have doubts, spend the extra $35 and get the 3-row just for the peace of mind. Otherwise, you'll keep asking yourself if you should have gotten the 3-row.

I'm running a 2-row from radiatorbarn with no problems with the 100-105 daytime temps the past few days. I'm about 90 miles from the Canadian border so these temps are unusually high for me and don't have a/c.

Extra money would be worth the heat transfer rate you gain.

get the 3. I saw a huge difference when i installed mine.

My understanding is that the 3-row has smaller rows and is more of an equal to a new OEM radiator. The 2-row has much larger passages and is the same overall thickness as the 3-row, which means it is MUCH less likely to become plugged.

I'd get the 2-row. I just finished (1/2 hour ago) installing a 3-row because I bought it from someone who was upgrading to the 2-row. I got it for $40, therefore it was worth it, but for the prices you are looking at the 2-row is far and away the best deal.

I'm not a cooling expert (Eagle is), but if the radiator isn't internally plugged, the impeller fins on the pump aren't corroded to nubs, the mechanical fan clutch is working well and there isn't a big air bubble in the system someplace.
Increased air flow is the next most helpfull thing. The engine compartment doesn't flow the air well forced out by the fans at slow speeds or idle.
Adding another row, may not help much, if the air doesn't flow well over it.
I have the fan shroud removed on my mechanicl fan, a weak fan clutch. When I turn the electric fan on, I can actually feel the mechanical fan pushing a little air out the mechanical fan side of the radiator, instead of exiting out the rear of the engine compartment.

If the system is healthy, venting the hood (engine compartment) some way, may be the better solution to increasing efficiency.

I've seen four radiators, from OEM through GDI and replacement Modines all spring small leaks in the same place (you have to remove the shroud to see it and possibly use a mirror). Upper right hand side of the radiator, where the cross passages tie into the end tank, very near the top intake.
I don't really know if it is from stress, electrolysis, the point of highest pressure or all of the above.

There may be a little more support for the tank (from the extra cross passages), with the three row radiator.

I'm thinking it may be a good idea if a small piece of foam was glued to the front cross member to help support the end tanks some. I used to have to do that with my old Dodge trucks or the radiator bracket would pop off. Bouncing a radiator full of coolant down a dirt road has to develope some serious stresses. Much of the wieght is likely in the end tanks (in the XJ) that are largely unsupported.

I got the 3-row from radiatorbarn and am very happy with it. 6 months with no problems.

The Modine I'm running is a two row but the tubes are much larger than a three row and so has more flow. In my case the two row was better.
It's a high flow two core because the tubes are larger than a standard two core and fill the entire core area.

SCW said:

My understanding is that the 3-row has smaller rows and is more of an equal to a new OEM radiator. The 2-row has much larger passages and is the same overall thickness as the 3-row, which means it is MUCH less likely to become plugged.

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x2 I've heard they have less airflow through them too.

I've got the same setup as Langer does, a Modine two core with rather large cross passages.
Generally speaking, the more air I flow through the radiator the better it cools, there seems to be a bunch of reserve surface area to be used in the two core.
The only time my temp. raises a touch above normal, is when idling for extended periods and that disappears as soon as I move.
The temp. does raise a bit when towing, rarely enough to kick in the aux fan.
I`m fairly convinced, if I had a seven blade or even a slightly larger and better designed six blade mechanical fan, the aux. fan would never kick in. I'm convinced a little more air flow at idle (or low speed under load) and my cooling issues (very minor) would disappear. Only one way to know for sure, is to try it and see, I've been looking for possible fan donor candidates at the local junk yards.
It rarley ever gets to a hundred here, but does typically stay at 90 for weeks on end. But sitting in traffic, the in air temp. for the radiator is likely a 120 or more.

Atl XJ said:

x2 I've heard they have less airflow through them too.

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Like I mentioned, but probably not well, is the engine compartment doesn't flow well. There is a back up of air trying to escape the engine compartment. at idle (or slow speed). At moderate to higher speeds, there is generally a slightly negative pressure area under most any vehicle, that helps move the radiator air out of the engine compartment (the front spoiler helps this).
When my aux comes on at idle (I have a swich) some small amounts of air actually comes out of the front of the radiator on the mechanical fan side. Instead of pushing the air out the rear, it forces some air backwords past the mechanical fan. My fan clutch isn't shot, but weak (yes it's on order).
But this is a sure indicator the air from the aux fan is backing up in the engine conmpartment.
A three row may not be much help, in moving excess heat, if the air isn't flowing well. I wouldn't expect it to be a miracle cure, if air flow and possibly other things aren't also adressed. It may help some at highway speeds, due to the increased surface area.
Coolant flow through the radiator
Air flow through the radiator
Surface area of the radiator.
Are all factors.
But IMO air flow is often a more important factor, in an otherwise healthy system.