websterky
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Taylor Mill, Ky
I just bought the liberty light bar does anyone know if it has to be mounted right by the windshield ? or can it be mounted back father back by the roof rack? I have a 99 xj classic.....
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liberty light bar
- Thread starter websterky
- Start date
if you have the factory roof rack, it's obvious. Mounting it farther back without them, may become a problem, because the stock wiring harness is a certain length. Mounting them farther back also wastes light which is stuck with your roof in the way. Just mount em on the end.
This is going to be my winter project, so I'll let you know when I get it done.
This is going to be my winter project, so I'll let you know when I get it done.
motorcityxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- detroit suburbs
just curious if you measured for width and how flexible is that plastic, will it contour to the shape of the XJ.
Please post pics when your done i would like to see how it fits.
Please post pics when your done i would like to see how it fits.
Ramsey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Shreveport, LA
Does that make me a nobody?sharpie1k said:
Ramsey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Shreveport, LA
I preferred being nobody...
Think hes got enough stickers and stolen parts on that thing?
Think hes got enough stickers and stolen parts on that thing?
websterky
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Taylor Mill, Ky
i dont understand why they are stolen parts please explain....
platinum5.9
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- NY
I think he means stolen from different makes of jeeps.....liberty,rubicon ect....
websterky
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Taylor Mill, Ky
oh....ok
Ramsey
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Shreveport, LA
bingoplatinum5.9 said:
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
I did a quick lookup on the price of the parts, whooooweeee. Think I'll get my front bumper first...
platinum5.9
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- NY
I would really like to see someone do this on an XJ!
websterky
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Taylor Mill, Ky
well it should be here any day so i will post pics as soon as done......
JEEPZZ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- In front of my PC
It took me a while to find this info from several years back (no it's not my Jeep). Also listed is the text that went with it:
"The light bar comes in two pieces. It is made to mount and wire down the
drive pillar. The base of the light bar has two sided tape so you can
position the bar and mark the holes to drill. I did just take the molding
off the left door trim to allow the liner to drop a couple of inches on the
left side so I could see the clearance, etc. There is about a 1" 1/2 gap.
To get a good fit, as the bar is slightly curved along the front, I had to
shorten my roof rack about 5". I just removed the end, took out about three
or four rack/rail screws, wedged it up a little and cut it with a hacksaw.
You will loose the first hole on the rail. I just put the screw back in,
painted it the color of my top, as it will be hidden once you put the end
back on. The rail is held fine, I used trim cement on the end, then put a
very small screw through the side to hold it, black silicone the cracks and
you can't tell.
The kit comes with 7 threaded studs or whatever you want to call them. (Like
what you would put into a wall to hold the screw.) You drill the holes with
a piece of wood on the bit so it only goes into the metal about 1/4 inch.
The threaded studs are grooved and you push them in the hole, then use a
tool they give you which consists of a large nut with a bolt through it. You
thread the bolt into the stud, hold the nut with a wrench and tighten the
bolt. As you tighten it, the stud starts to compress on the back side until
it is squashed against the under side of the roof. Unthread the bolt and the
regular bolt to hold the unit goes in. I put a little silicone on each stud
and the final bolt.
There is a bigger hole, 1" for the harness rubber grommet. My Cherokee has
ridges the length of the roof, so I had to cut the plastic in the light bar
base about a 1/2' wider so the hole would not be on part of the raised
groove. You will need a 1" metal hole saw for this. I used a vacuum to clean
the drill shavings out of my windshield molding.
I positioned the rack, places the bolts, started them all to make sure they
lined up, then tightened. Fished the harness through and pushed the grommet
in and also sealed it.Ran wire down the left side. I cut off the connector
end on the harness.It was made to wire into a Liberty harness, so you don't
need it.Bar is all pre wired to all lights.
The rest of the wiring is all wrapped etc. There is a ground round connector
to run by your battery anywhere, a hot round connector to connect to the end
of your fuse box under the hood. A fuse, and the light regulator.
For under the dash they give you a switch which has a separate bulb and two
wires with 2amp fuses and fuse box plug in ends. This was the only thing
needing modified.There is not enough wire, so I connected two wires from the
ground and hot wire coming off the regulator under the hood. Wrapped it and
ran it into the car going along the passenger fender, across the firewall
and in under the steering wheel. column. Attached two roof wires to switch
wires along with power wires. Two smaller wires off switch, I cut and ran
together then put the fuse/plug-in on the end of it and ran to an empty slot
in my fuse panel on the passenger kick panel. by the way, TRY this temporary
wire and make sure everything works before you run it all and final hook it
up.
You have to put your switch in before you wire under the dash. I took my
wiring panel where your rear wiper/fog lights/and defroster are out.cut a
whole to fit the switch. The switch has a slightly larger front switch
covers your cut. I don't have a rear defroster so I used that spot.Switch is
slightly curved top to bottom.They also give to a panel you could mount some
place, both gray and black.
When top housing put on, you can still adjust the light angle as there is a
whole in the rear of each. Boy are they bright Hella lens. Lights also come
with covers. Kit retails for $450, I got mine for $360, but if you figure
wiring harness, individual lights and a light bar, cost is not too bad,
especially that they are all pre-wired."
"The light bar comes in two pieces. It is made to mount and wire down the
drive pillar. The base of the light bar has two sided tape so you can
position the bar and mark the holes to drill. I did just take the molding
off the left door trim to allow the liner to drop a couple of inches on the
left side so I could see the clearance, etc. There is about a 1" 1/2 gap.
To get a good fit, as the bar is slightly curved along the front, I had to
shorten my roof rack about 5". I just removed the end, took out about three
or four rack/rail screws, wedged it up a little and cut it with a hacksaw.
You will loose the first hole on the rail. I just put the screw back in,
painted it the color of my top, as it will be hidden once you put the end
back on. The rail is held fine, I used trim cement on the end, then put a
very small screw through the side to hold it, black silicone the cracks and
you can't tell.
The kit comes with 7 threaded studs or whatever you want to call them. (Like
what you would put into a wall to hold the screw.) You drill the holes with
a piece of wood on the bit so it only goes into the metal about 1/4 inch.
The threaded studs are grooved and you push them in the hole, then use a
tool they give you which consists of a large nut with a bolt through it. You
thread the bolt into the stud, hold the nut with a wrench and tighten the
bolt. As you tighten it, the stud starts to compress on the back side until
it is squashed against the under side of the roof. Unthread the bolt and the
regular bolt to hold the unit goes in. I put a little silicone on each stud
and the final bolt.
There is a bigger hole, 1" for the harness rubber grommet. My Cherokee has
ridges the length of the roof, so I had to cut the plastic in the light bar
base about a 1/2' wider so the hole would not be on part of the raised
groove. You will need a 1" metal hole saw for this. I used a vacuum to clean
the drill shavings out of my windshield molding.
I positioned the rack, places the bolts, started them all to make sure they
lined up, then tightened. Fished the harness through and pushed the grommet
in and also sealed it.Ran wire down the left side. I cut off the connector
end on the harness.It was made to wire into a Liberty harness, so you don't
need it.Bar is all pre wired to all lights.
The rest of the wiring is all wrapped etc. There is a ground round connector
to run by your battery anywhere, a hot round connector to connect to the end
of your fuse box under the hood. A fuse, and the light regulator.
For under the dash they give you a switch which has a separate bulb and two
wires with 2amp fuses and fuse box plug in ends. This was the only thing
needing modified.There is not enough wire, so I connected two wires from the
ground and hot wire coming off the regulator under the hood. Wrapped it and
ran it into the car going along the passenger fender, across the firewall
and in under the steering wheel. column. Attached two roof wires to switch
wires along with power wires. Two smaller wires off switch, I cut and ran
together then put the fuse/plug-in on the end of it and ran to an empty slot
in my fuse panel on the passenger kick panel. by the way, TRY this temporary
wire and make sure everything works before you run it all and final hook it
up.
You have to put your switch in before you wire under the dash. I took my
wiring panel where your rear wiper/fog lights/and defroster are out.cut a
whole to fit the switch. The switch has a slightly larger front switch
covers your cut. I don't have a rear defroster so I used that spot.Switch is
slightly curved top to bottom.They also give to a panel you could mount some
place, both gray and black.
When top housing put on, you can still adjust the light angle as there is a
whole in the rear of each. Boy are they bright Hella lens. Lights also come
with covers. Kit retails for $450, I got mine for $360, but if you figure
wiring harness, individual lights and a light bar, cost is not too bad,
especially that they are all pre-wired."
JEEPZZ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- In front of my PC
Here's the "no brainer" instructions that come with: click here
JEEPZZ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- In front of my PC
Test fitted on another Jeep, not mounted yet.
(cross posted from JF)
(cross posted from JF)
uke: