Tuned AW4 Valve Bodies

Hello everyone, the preliminary testing is complete and it is now official.

Tuned valve bodies for your AW4 will greatly enhance the performance and feel of your AW4 automatic transmission, as well as prolong trans life and enhance durability. Myself, in association with several forum members have been working out the kinks and I'm pleased to finally be able to offer this service. If you have any questions, do not hesitate to ask.

STAGE 1: Improved shift speeds and firmness. All 3 shifts plus the torque converter lock-up are enhanced for greater speed and firmer feel. This helps reduce wear on clutches and extends transmission fluid life by reducing internal friction and heat. This is an excellent upgrade for anyone with a mild rig/DD that wants to make improvements to their Jeeps behavior but does not require the STAGE 2 options.

STAGE 2: In addition to the improved shift speeds and firmness that Stage 1 provides, Stage 2 gives us the capability of further increasing shift speed and firmness while minimizing harshness, it allows for an increase in line pressure allowing for increased torque capacity, and allows for 1st gear lock-in when the shifter is placed in the "1-2" position. These additional options are provided using the Transgo shift kit components.


More than just a simple kit installation, we work closely with each customer the specific needs and desires each person has for their Jeep. Different applications may mandate different settings, and with either of these modifications you are not stuck with "presets".

Each and every VB is "tuned" to each application, and I stand by them 100%

Sending in a VB for modification includes a free adjustment later. If, after you re-install the VB and you decide that a prticular shift is too fast or too slow...I will make any adjustments desired FREE OF CHARGE. You must cover shipping here and back, however.

Stage 1: $165 (includes return shipping)

Stage 2: $300 (includes return shipping)

Note:
-New solenoids, if needed, are also available for an additional cost.
-You can get a Stage 2 for the price of the Stage 1 if you include a Transgo HD Kit you purchased yourself.

If you have any questions, do not hesitate to ask.

Thanks, and strong wheeling!

-Chad (aka child9)

Core Charge Policy

Hi there,

This sounds good! So about your product, what is your core charge policy?

Can we buy a VB and install it, and then ship back our VB core to you? Otherwise it's going to leave alot of us DD folks out unless we can find another VB core somewhere.

Thanks.

I want the stage 2, I already have a transgo kit. How do i go about ordering/paying?

SurfRodder said:

I want the stage 2, I already have a transgo kit. How do i go about ordering/paying?

Click to expand...

that was quick Josh, I only emailed you what, 5 minutes ago? lol

GrimmJeeper said:

that was quick Josh, I only emailed you what, 5 minutes ago? lol

Click to expand...

I really wanna get into the teardown...that and I just happened to check my phone right after that. Anyway, thanks for the heads up brotha!

What's the cost of replacement solenoids?

Fringe XVO said:

Stage 1: $165 (includes return shipping)

Stage 2: $300 (includes return shipping)

Note:
-New solenoids, if needed, are also available for an additional cost.
-You can get a Stage 2 for the price of the Stage 1 if you include a Transgo HD Kit you purchased yourself.

-Chad (aka child9)

Click to expand...

This is a great deal, Click here is the Transgo HD Kit $102.95

I received my valve body back from Chad last wed. or Thursday and was able to get it installed over the weekend. Below is the message I sent him when I shipped it as he asked for an overview of what I would like accomplished.

"Chad I would like to accomplish the following with my valve body. 1) Increased line pressure. 2) Crisper/ firmer shifts - more truck like, not race car. 3) Ability to hold 1st gear when the lever is in the 1-2 position. 4) Crisper engagement of torque converter lockup."

I sent him my three accumulator pistons, the valve body, an upper and lower valve body gasket kit and the transgo 340-hd2 reprogramming kit. Be sure to bag the accumulator pistons and their respective springs each separately in their own little baggy.

After getting it installed the very first thing I noticed was the quick and firm 1-2 shift. As is always the case in these AW4's it seems to come too early, but at lease it now feel like it would chirp the tires if I had 350hp to feed it. Obviously after feeling that I wanted to stop and make sure it would hold 1st gear in the 1-2 position; it did and it's nice to finally have a crawling gear again. After getting it out on the open road it felt like it took a few minutes to get all the solenoids firing properly and the shifts to settle in at their new operating parameters. I've talked with Chad about it, but I felt like the firmness of the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts were definitely not as pronounced as the 1-2 at part throttle, however I did notice that at wide open throttle they are quicker and feel more positive. In all gears I notice a slightly more "directly connected" (for lack of a better term) feeling in the drive train, almost more like a manual, there's not that old mushy feeling when accelerating in say 3rd gear doing 35 at the base of a hill. The torque converter lock was VASTLY improved! It is very discernible now when my torque converter locks up and my rpms drop big time at 55mph. This feels like a huge improvement to me. I'll be watching my fuel mileage as well to see if this helps at all with that. I have thought about having Chad firm up the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts, but I do notice that they seem to get firmer with more throttle by a fairly linear relationship. Considering this is my daily driver I don't know that I want race car shifts at all throttle positions, so I may just leave them where they're at too.

Chad and I also talked about another interesting phenomenon I've noticed, but can't explain. Since installing the valve body my indicated coolant temperatures have come down. My jeep has never run hot or overheated and the temperature needle has always run just at the left edge of the center hash mark. Now though, while driving it runs 1/16" - 1/32" further to the left with a little bit of space between the needle and the hash mark. Also when I come to a stop it will fluctuate a tiny bit further to left before returning to its new location. Chad wants to investigate the fluid temp differences further on a test rig with transmission temp sensors before any conclusions are made, but I just figured I'd share that part of my experience as well.

I suspect that the quicker shifts are introducing less heat into the fluid. I will confirm the theory soon.

merdock69 said:

I received my valve body back from Chad last wed. or Thursday and was able to get it installed over the weekend. Below is the message I sent him when I shipped it as he asked for an overview of what I would like accomplished.

"Chad I would like to accomplish the following with my valve body. 1) Increased line pressure. 2) Crisper/ firmer shifts - more truck like, not race car. 3) Ability to hold 1st gear when the lever is in the 1-2 position. 4) Crisper engagement of torque converter lockup."

I sent him my three accumulator pistons, the valve body, an upper and lower valve body gasket kit and the transgo 340-hd2 reprogramming kit. Be sure to bag the accumulator pistons and their respective springs each separately in their own little baggy.

After getting it installed the very first thing I noticed was the quick and firm 1-2 shift. As is always the case in these AW4's it seems to come too early, but at lease it now feel like it would chirp the tires if I had 350hp to feed it. Obviously after feeling that I wanted to stop and make sure it would hold 1st gear in the 1-2 position; it did and it's nice to finally have a crawling gear again. After getting it out on the open road it felt like it took a few minutes to get all the solenoids firing properly and the shifts to settle in at their new operating parameters. I've talked with Chad about it, but I felt like the firmness of the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts were definitely not as pronounced as the 1-2 at part throttle, however I did notice that at wide open throttle they are quicker and feel more positive. In all gears I notice a slightly more "directly connected" (for lack of a better term) feeling in the drive train, almost more like a manual, there's not that old mushy feeling when accelerating in say 3rd gear doing 35 at the base of a hill. The torque converter lock was VASTLY improved! It is very discernible now when my torque converter locks up and my rpms drop big time at 55mph. This feels like a huge improvement to me. I'll be watching my fuel mileage as well to see if this helps at all with that. I have thought about having Chad firm up the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts, but I do notice that they seem to get firmer with more throttle by a fairly linear relationship. Considering this is my daily driver I don't know that I want race car shifts at all throttle positions, so I may just leave them where they're at too.

Chad and I also talked about another interesting phenomenon I've noticed, but can't explain. Since installing the valve body my indicated coolant temperatures have come down. My jeep has never run hot or overheated and the temperature needle has always run just at the left edge of the center hash mark. Now though, while driving it runs 1/16" - 1/32" further to the left with a little bit of space between the needle and the hash mark. Also when I come to a stop it will fluctuate a tiny bit further to left before returning to its new location. Chad wants to investigate the fluid temp differences further on a test rig with transmission temp sensors before any conclusions are made, but I just figured I'd share that part of my experience as well.

Click to expand...

The factory temp gage hides a lot of temperature variation. With my jeep reading on the center hash mark, its actually closer to about 202 on my scangauge. Just past the mark is about 222(when my fan kicks on)

I will consider this service once I get my DD up and running.

I’m very interested in your transmission shift kit for three reasons:
1) Prolong the life of the trany
2) Give me better towing possibilities
3) Reduce trany and engine cooling

We use our 2000 Jeep XJ as a daily driver, for mild off-roading, and as a utilitarian vehicle. As you can see, I haul a lot of firewood and brush. Would I be a candidate for a Stage 1 or Stage 2 kit? I have 180,000 miles on my Jeep and it was neglected when I bought it. The OD didn’t work and the trany fluid was brown when I changed it. I did a drain and fill with Amsoil ATF 4 different times and finally got the OD working. To date, the trany seems to work fine, however, I have no idea what life is left on the trany. Is it worth installing a shift kit with 180,000 miles or should I hold off and wait until I buy a new transmission?

dieselenthusiast said:

I’m very interested in your transmission shift kit for three reasons:
1) Prolong the life of the trany
2) Give me better towing possibilities
3) Reduce trany and engine cooling

We use our 2000 Jeep XJ as a daily driver, for mild off-roading, and as a utilitarian vehicle. As you can see, I haul a lot of firewood and brush. Would I be a candidate for a Stage 1 or Stage 2 kit? I have 180,000 miles on my Jeep and it was neglected when I bought it. The OD didn’t work and the trany fluid was brown when I changed it. I did a drain and fill with Amsoil ATF 4 different times and finally got the OD working. To date, the trany seems to work fine, however, I have no idea what life is left on the trany. Is it worth installing a shift kit with 180,000 miles or should I hold off and wait until I buy a new transmission?

Click to expand...

You will want the STAGE 2.

You can install the VB now if you want, and this is why. The VB will improve the immediate performance of the existing trans. It may help it last a little longer. When you acquire another transmission, just verify that the VBs are compatible and you will be able to simply install the accumulators and VB from the old transmission into the new one.

-Chad

IMPORTANT:

Notes on shipping your valve body and accumulators to Fringe:

Drain, clean, and dry the vb as much as humanly possible. Wrap the VB in paper towels and use 2 two-gallon zipper lock freezer bags to put it in. Wrap well and ship in an appropriate size container. When removing accumulators from the transmission, keep the associated springs together with each accumulator and bag them in ziplock sandwich bags.

You should have one wrapped/bagged VB and 3 individual sandwich bags with the accumulators and springs.

-Chad

Fringe XVO said:

You will want the STAGE 2.

Click to expand...

:thumbup:

Fringe XVO said:

You can install the VB now if you want, and this is why. The VB will improve the immediate performance of the existing trans. It may help it last a little longer. When you acquire another transmission, just verify that the VBs are compatible and you will be able to simply install the accumulators and VB from the old transmission into the new one.

Click to expand...

That makes sense.

I would prefer to buy a new or used VB and have that sent to you so I have little down time. Do you know a good place to buy a replacement VB?

CobraMarty said:

This is a great deal, Click here is the Transgo HD Kit $102.95

Click to expand...

Just to clarify, this will work with my 2000 XJ, correct?

I am going to be as honest and accurate as I can be.

The Transgo kit is good for all the AW4 valve bodies.

The valve body specific gaskets must be slightly different. They change part numbers from 2000 and up. Get the gasket that is appropriate to your year please.

I've never needed to source a whole complete valve body that wasn't in a transmission, but you can get parts from here:
https://www.wittrans.com

As far as a complete working VB, I would suggest a used and already working VB. I have acquired entire transmissions from CL before for $50.

I just laid out a 2000 VB and a 1996 VB... NO DISCERNIBLE DIFFERENCE.

I should say this as well. This service is mostly figured out, but there is still information that is coming in. I am good at handling data, but the quantification of it is a process. I can tell you that if I make a mistake or do not have an answer for something, I will rectify it with you or find the answer. Some things take time. Some things take money. Some things take both.

That said, I am confident that ALL the VBs are swappable BETWEEN AW4s...however there are different VB gaskets part numbers from 2000+. Something must be slightly different between 1999- and 2000+, I just don't know exactly what yet. Despite the part number difference, the uppers and lowers of each VB on the 1996 and 2000 I just had next to each other show no real difference. Both have the same 4 digit casting numbers...although there is another number above (2 digit) that was different and casting dates were different. Every bolt location, every hole, every contour looks to me to be identical. Solenoids are slightly different in color, some have numbers and some don't...but they are definitely swappable. Merdock69 can confirm this.

Dieselenthusiast: I told you to confirm the VBs were the same across the 2000 year mark. I am 99% sure I have just confirmed that with Talyn's 2000 VB and my original 1996 VB sitting next to each other.

ALL SYSTEMS GO.

Chances are I will be maintancing my wife's 01 DD this weekend and I will have the pan off.

would you like me to snap some pictures of the VB for you?

I'm also on the hunt for a spare trans, so if I can find one it's likely we'll do this mod with the spare VB so she has no downtime. it being a DD and all.

I hate autos, so anything to make it shift better and last longer I'm down for.

No, I don't need any pics, but thank you!

I LOVE autos (and standards)...it's just that performance-wise an auto can out-perform a stick in almost every way (save torque capacity)...they can shift faster, they can do it with 100% consistency, and newer autos with lock-up are wasting far less HP than the old ones. Unless you are channeling RIDICULOUS amounts of power through the trans, autos can trump.

I hope you will at least not HATE autos when we do your VB, lol!

Fringe XVO said:

I LOVE autos... it's just that performance-wise an auto can out-perform a stick in almost every way (save torque capacity)...they can shift faster, they can do it with 100% consistency, and newer autos with lock-up are wasting far less HP than the old ones. Unless you are channeling RIDICULOUS amounts of power through the trans, autos can trump.

Click to expand...

I can attest to this. I have a 2006 Dodge Cummins Turbo Diesel with the 48RE. It’s amazing what a built auto transmission can do. Some of the biggest torque monsters in the diesel world are matted to automatics. In many cases, autos are now more fuel efficient than manual transmissions.

I have the aw4 with the RAdesigns rail shifter.

I drive it without the rail shifter on the street, and I'm not satisfied with how soft the shifts feel and how inefficient the tranny feels in general.

I'm looking to make the transmission as efficient and smooth as possible, which kit would you recommend?

2001 xj, 33's, 4.56 gears, and it always feels under powered and slow.