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For Sale: 91 XJ 4x4

RedDevilGTO

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Diego
Selling my 1991 XJ 4x4 with a less then 140k miles on it. Picked it up a year ago, as is, and daily drove it. Recently bought another XJ and don't need this one anymore, doesn't mean I don't want to sell her. :bawl:

Engine: 4.0L High Output
Transmission: Auto
Transfer case: NP231 with SYE
Front Axle: D30 VAC (but it was bypassed by previous owner) with 4.56 and aussie locker
Rear Axle: D35 with 4.56 and aussie locker
Lift: 4.5" short arm lift using RE coils upfront and RE springs and shackle in back, Adjustable control arms, sway bar quick disconnects, reinforced tie rod, and RE track bar
Skids: Gas tank, transfer case, transmission, oil pan, front diff, and rock sliders
Others:
-Front and Rear have been cut for clearance
-Brown Dog motor mounts
-Two Hella lights on front bumper
-Thule roof bars with a Yakima roof rack
-Flowmaster muffler
-Grant steering wheel
-Sony head unit with aux in
-Window tinting
-Tow hitch with 2" receiver
-Five black steel rims (32" tires need to be replaced)
-Steering box mount is reinforced

It's a 20 year old jeep, so it has things that don't work. It does suffer from the issue with the engine getting hot when sitting at idle. It can be stopped from overheating by keeping the engine at 1.5-2k RPM (in neutral of course). Or as long as there is speed and the engine isn't being pushed hard (weighted down up a long steep hill) it doesn't get that hot. I put in a 138A alternator in preparations to going to an all electric fan setup, but bought another more built rig.
I have the title and will get it smogged once someone shows interest in it. Registration is good till end of the year. Overall it's in fair condition. I've taken it to the desert several times camping and had fun with it. Price is $3000 or throw out an offer.
Thanks,
Scott

She's dusty from my last desert trip...
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She's still sitting at my house. I was going to part out, but I don't have the time to do it. Price drop to $1500 for all parts and a registration which is good till October 2012.
 
Trade for a 73 Chevy shortbed
 
Sorry I forgot to post this up earlier... I think that the engine may be on its last leg. The father/son that checked it out when I first posted it for sale said they were both mechanics and that the engine was on borrowed time.
 
Borrowed time :doh: says the buyer of course, do you concur it is on its last leg you saying this or you went off what they said?
 
unless it has an obvious rod knock, wrist pin knock, piston slap, has really low oil pressure, consumes a lot of oil, and/or smokes, i wouldnt worry about it. i know mine gets lifter tick but runs like a raped ape.
 
I'm putting some value in what they said (I didn't accept the $800 offer), and the fact that it gets hot at idle. The oil pressure goes low after it's warmed up and at idle. So it does seem like warning signs that something might be going wrong. Course it's been that way for the last 10,000 miles.

That's why I think $1500 is a good price. It's a price that I wont feel guilty selling to someone if the engine dies shortly after. Either swap in a new engine, or swap out all the parts and scrap rest.
 
I'm putting some value in what they said (I didn't accept the $800 offer), and the fact that it gets hot at idle. The oil pressure goes low after it's warmed up and at idle. So it does seem like warning signs that something might be going wrong. Course it's been that way for the last 10,000 miles.

That's why I think $1500 is a good price. It's a price that I wont feel guilty selling to someone if the engine dies shortly after. Either swap in a new engine, or swap out all the parts and scrap rest.
my van (and most high mileage engines) have lower oil pressure at idle, it's normal. as long as it jumps up to normal when it's at driving revs, it's fine. my dad has been a mechanic since the mid 60's and he told me this, and he's not trying to buy my van. common causes are tired oil pumps or slightly more "clearanced" rod and main bearings. it can still go a long ways like that.
my van idles at probably 10-20psi and jumps up to 50psi or so when im moving. it's been like that probably long before i've owned it, and i wouldnt hessitate to drive it anywhere, and i usually tow my jeep behind it on any trips over 100 miles.
as for getting hot at idle, i guess my jeep is on it's way out too then :roflmao:


good price though!
 
I agree, I wouldn't worry about it unless you have very obvious noises and knocks. I don't even know where my oil pressure sits because the guage is broken and I'm too lazy to fix it. But it runs great and mine gets hot at idle also. From what I have been seeing its a common xj problem, they just don't like to sit and idle. They want to run!

$1500 looks like a fair price to me as well, if I had it I would buy it. I'm actually trying to talk my buddy into it. He doesn't seem too interested tho unfortunatley.
 
I'm putting some value in what they said (I didn't accept the $800 offer), and the fact that it gets hot at idle. The oil pressure goes low after it's warmed up and at idle. So it does seem like warning signs that something might be going wrong. Course it's been that way for the last 10,000 miles.

That's why I think $1500 is a good price. It's a price that I wont feel guilty selling to someone if the engine dies shortly after. Either swap in a new engine, or swap out all the parts and scrap rest.

Oil pressure going low after warmup is normal. The cold oil has a thicker visosity when the engine is cold and causes the initial high pressure. After the engine is warm the oil is at its normal viscosity and will be lower at than when the engine is cold. Just make sure the pressure increases with the rpm.
 
yep, heavier weight oil might help a little as well, but i didnt notice much difference in the van.
wish i didnt already have my jeep, that's a way better deal than mine was.
 
FYI, “the price is $1500 for all parts” which means that I won’t be getting the jeep smogged prior to selling. The registration is good till Oct 2012, so it can be driven for 6 months before it’d need to be smogged. I honestly don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t pass, I just don’t want to take the time or money to do it.
 
Just an FYi, yoh can not sell a vehicle without smogging it, even if you write it into the bill of sale.

I did some major research when I sold a car without a smog and it did not pass when the owner tried to.

Whatever you write into the bill of sale does not supercede the law. The sale is not considered finale until the car is.smogged. The only way a person can sell a car without a smog cert within the last 90 days is to have a PNO (non-op) on it before the sale.

They can legally pay for all the repairs to have it smoggged, then sue you in small claims court.

I don't want you to get in a bind for.when you do.sell it.

E
 
ive never smogged a vehicle before selling it, and i've never had an issue, 10+ vehicles (in this state) later.
 
ive never smogged a vehicle before selling it, and i've never had an issue, 10+ vehicles (in this state) later.

That doesn't change the law. The seller is responsible for the smog according to the law. Yea, I bought my XJ without it being smogged, but I knew if I had problems I could go back to the seller about it.
 
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