Jeep went wacky.

dan1977p said:

I think 11 matters because it's exposed to the internals of the head whereas the others are threaded solely into the head with no exposure to anything else. But yeah, clean everything. Just good practice anyway, even though I don't follow it myself all the time...

Click to expand...

I understand that all too well. I work in HVAC and sometimes normal practice doesn't always get stuff done. Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

90xj06 said:

oh boy i feel like i just had my engine looking like that. just remember to put the drivers side rear head bolt into the head before lifting it back onto the block.

Click to expand...

Indeed, and wrap duct on the top side of it to hold it in place so that the bolt does not stick out the bottom of the head. Also 5-90 taught me to take two old head bolts, cut the head off, then grind a slice into the top side so they can be turned with a flat blade screw driver, install the two (or maybe 3-4) in the block as alignment guides for the head so that the block sets down square on the head gasket the first try. It was supper important for using old style gaskets. But it makes getting the new head bolts in super easy.

That front drivers side bolt needs to have copper silicone sealant on the block threads and bolt threads or it will leak coolant there. Use new bolts, do not risk reusing the old bolts.

I attached the two manifolds to the head, before installing the head on mine. Much easier to reassemble that way but it is heavier.

Did not know about the exhaust stud issue? Mine is Renix.

Coming along slowly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mine was running great but now i have rod knock. now to drop the pan and check everything again.

One tip with the valve cover gasket.
RTV the cork gasket to the valve cover overnight with the weight of the cover on the rtv/gasket.
itll stick it to the cover and makes it easy to install and almost always prevents leaks.