Is it worth Limited Slip the the front?

Again thanks for all the input!. I guess it is just a toss up. I am regearing it to 4:10's. My wheeling plans are some where in the middle. My XJ is my DD. So nothing hard core. I'm all so running the stock NP231. But with a tight buget, and how often I go, I'll just keep the front open.:rof:

I use my 242 in Full Time when the weather requires it or it helps stability. Sometimes in rain the rear wants to spin a tire during hard acceleration or on the gas in a turn. The full-time stops all the drama and it drives like on a rail. I don't use the ARBs in these conditions on pavement.

With the 242 there are many options available.

[email protected] said:

Again thanks for all the input!. I guess it is just a toss up. I am regearing it to 4:10's. My wheeling plans are some where in the middle. My XJ is my DD. So nothing hard core. I'm all so running the stock NP231. But with a tight buget, and how often I go, I'll just keep the front open.:rof:

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why are you regearing to 4.10's? The lowest I would ever pay to regear is 4.88's.

Otherwise I would live with a 4cyl d30 upfront and a 8.8 out back with stock 4.10's.

As an XJ'er with a 242, I'll throw my $0.02 in. I put an ECTED in the rear (Ford 8.8 axle) to take advantage of the limited slip, and put an Eaton E-Locker in the front D30. I love the set-up.

I can use full-time 4x4 without issue...on snow, wet roads, etc., yet have the ability to lock either front or rear at the flip of a switch. I think it's the best of both worlds....

Just my opinion.

I'm running a RE 3.5in with 31's and 3.55. I would put 4.56 or 4.88 in if it was deadicated crawler. But this is my DD. I understand that with 31's and putting 4.10's in will bring it back to a "stock" setting? I would like to maintain 70mph with out racing over 3000 RPM's "4.0L auto trans". I am adding 3/4in spacers in the front and 1 in shackles in the rear. and will be putting 32 or 33's when my 31's wear out there brand new. I would drop in 4.35 if they were made. But maybe I'll drop in 4.56's, not to sure yet?

[email protected] said:

I understand that with 31's and putting 4.10's in will bring it back to a "stock" setting?

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More or less. It's been years since I did the math on this, but my recollection is that 3.90:1 on 31" tyres would be equivalent to 3.55:1 on factory 28" tyres. Since there's no 3.90:1 gearset available to the best of my knowledge, 4.10:1 is the next jump. You'll actually be about 5% overgeared, but it's not enough that there's any practical downside to it.

I would like to maintain 70mph with out racing over 3000 RPM's "4.0L auto trans".

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You'll be fine on 4.10s. 2500 RPM in 4th gear with an AW4 works out to 70mph on 245/75R16s, which have an approximately 30.7" diameter.

I ran a tru-trac on the front and a locker in the rear for a few years. The tru-trac didn't do much if anything at all for off road capability.

Now, where the tru-trac really sucked for me was in the ice and snow(mainly ice). On ice its slick enough that the tru-trac can not work as a differential. What then happens is it acts as if there was a spool in the front and it turns HORRIBLE hard to navigate regular turns in the road and really hard to pull into parking spots etc on the ice. The worst part of this is that this problem existed in 2wd also so there was no getting around it.

I got rid of the TT and went with an Aussie in the front. BIG difference off road as you can imagine. I really like being locked front and rear. No downsides other than increased turning radius while in 4wd.

Now in the ice and snow it does well, you have to know its there but its no death missile as some posts will lead you to believe. Simple solution is to use the 4x4 lever, yup jeep put it there so you can go in and out of 4wd as you please. With the locker I can flop it into 2wd and get my turning radius back unlike the TT.

It will do very nice and very controlled power slides and drifts with a ton of control much more fun than being open in the front . Last year was the first time we got a considerable amount of snow(for Oklahoma). I couldn't tell you how much gas I used sliding this thing around town at wide freaking open throttle . I just hope the ole stroker can still do the same now that its swinging 35s.

redrider2911 said:

The 242 uses some sort of clutch to seperate the front and back halves of the t case right? Excessive slip on those clutches and they will wear out prematurely. I've only owned 1 XJ with the 242 and I dont think I ever used the full time option. If Im in 4WD its cause I need to be in 4WD. Why put excessive strain on parts when you dont necessarily need the feature?

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negatory, the 242 uses all gears, no clutches or viscus couplers. it is either and open differential (full-time), or a locked differential (part time)

[email protected] said:

I'm running a RE 3.5in with 31's and 3.55. I would put 4.56 or 4.88 in if it was deadicated crawler. But this is my DD. I understand that with 31's and putting 4.10's in will bring it back to a "stock" setting? I would like to maintain 70mph with out racing over 3000 RPM's "4.0L auto trans". I am adding 3/4in spacers in the front and 1 in shackles in the rear. and will be putting 32 or 33's when my 31's wear out there brand new. I would drop in 4.35 if they were made. But maybe I'll drop in 4.56's, not to sure yet?

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If you will go over 31's, then definitely go with 4.56 gears. I ran 31's with 4.56 and it was great. Now I have 33's with 4.56 and wish that I had geared deeper.

Just like it says. Its it worth putting limited slip in a front axle at all?
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On ice its slick enough that the tru-trac can not work as a differential.
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X2 on the ice for a DD.

I will have to second that...I had a lsd in the front for a while....was pretty worthless to me....

I now have a warn locking hub set and aussie locker for the front...its a great setup...best part is no more unit bearings, and steering/tracking is great for daily driving...you can also install the aussie locker yourself it is very easy!