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Exhaust Manifold Stud Replacement Questions

5-90 said:
Something else I find helpful - get some 1/2"-13 threaded rod, and cut three or four pieces about 8" long. Thread loosely into the two front and one or both rear screw holes, and use them to position the head (so you don't "scrub" the gasket.) Start a few screws, then remove the alignment pins and replace with screws as well. MUCH easier that way, methinks (and I'm mildly surprised I didn't mention it earlier...)
Click to expand...

Thanks thats a good idea.
 
Muad'Dib said:
Thanks thats a good idea.
Click to expand...

Get some threaded rod in 1/2"-13 and 3/8"-16, and use it to make "alignment pins" for some jobs (cut them probably three inches long and about eight inches long.) Keep them in your toolbox.

I've also found it handy to use studs in the following places:
1) Valve cover - about four. (1/4"-20 x 1-1/2")
2) Oil Sump - about four. (1/4"-20 x 1" Use the 1996-up moulded one-piece rubber sump gasket here as well, even on early engines.)
3) Axle covers - top hole only 5/16"-18 by about an inch or so should serve here.)
4) AW4 Sump - two to four. (M6-1.0 x 25m/m)

It can save a lot of wrestling...
 
Few questions... I just got my exhaust manifold and it has like a baffle type thing (dont know what its called) on it that i believe runs to the stock airbox.
Here is a generic picture of what im talking about:
http://i11.tinypic.com/82e269y.jpg

Can this peice be removed if i no longer have an airbox, or should i leave it on there?

Also when looking into the manifold from the bottom (or collector i believe its called) you can see the runner protruding inside. I would say maybe 3/8 to 1/2 inch. Is this typical, or was it inserted into the main tubing too much before welding? If its not typical should i attempt to remove the excess with my dremel?
For example look at this pic:
http://www.turbosonline.com/catalog/images/dc-manifold1.jpg
See how where the runners start on the inside of the manifold its smooth, well on this one i just got, the pipe looks inserted too far inside here. Ill have to get a pic when i get home if that helps.

Thanks for the reply's.
 
Last edited:
Muad'Dib said:
Few questions... I just got my exhaust manifold and it has like a baffle type thing (dont know what its called) on it that i believe runs to the stock airbox.
Here is a generic picture of what im talking about:
http://i11.tinypic.com/82e269y.jpg

Can this peice be removed if i no longer have an airbox, or should i leave it on there?

Also when looking into the manifold from the bottom (or collector i believe its called) you can see the runner protruding inside. I would say maybe 3/8 to 1/2 inch. Is this typical, or was it inserted into the main tubing too much before welding? If its not typical should i attempt to remove the excess with my dremel?
For example look at this pic:
http://www.turbosonline.com/catalog/images/dc-manifold1.jpg
See how where the runners start on the inside of the manifold its smooth, well on this one i just got, the pipe looks inserted too far inside here. Ill have to get a pic when i get home if that helps.

Thanks for the reply's.
Click to expand...

That "baffle type thing" is an intake preheater - it's just sheetmetal. It's probably spot-welded into shape (at best!) and there's no connection between it and the exhaust manifold. You can probably clip it off in five minutes with a good pair of tin snips.
 
Oh I thought there was actually a hole so exhaust gasses would recirculate?

Or is that something different and this is just to get the "heat" off of the manifold and not recirculate the exhaust gasses?
 
5-90 said:
That "baffle type thing" is an intake preheater - it's just sheetmetal. It's probably spot-welded into shape (at best!) and there's no connection between it and the exhaust manifold. You can probably clip it off in five minutes with a good pair of tin snips.
Click to expand...

Thanks, any comments on the protruting pipe in the manifold?
 
"And, I deal with my customers the way I'd want to be dealt with myself. I find it a simple model for behaviour, and it's worked well so far - so I'll keep doing so."

This is the reason I never think twice about referring someone to 5-90.
 
dizzymac said:
"And, I deal with my customers the way I'd want to be dealt with myself. I find it a simple model for behaviour, and it's worked well so far - so I'll keep doing so."

This is the reason I never think twice about referring someone to 5-90.
Click to expand...

Which I do greatly appreciate! Thank you very much. (Not sure what this has to do with the original topic, mind, but I certainly won't argue with the sentiment...)
 
Man this job sucks.
It turns out the the exhaust manifold does have some major cracks in it, so im glad i got a replacement. The replacement that i got off ebay is great except for the fact that the spot where the EGR pipe goes into it is in a slightly different location. I had to bend the pipe alot to get it to work, but it did.
The hardest part im having is getting the head back in without ruining the head gasket. I just ruined one so i have to pic up another tomorrow. DAMMIT!
I have help, but even with help, its hard to support the head on the end that goes closest to the firewall without letting it drag across the gasket.... grr!
Oh, the throttle cable that goes from the pedal to the teter-totter thing (not sure what its called) broke. Fortunately there is a u-pull it just down the road and i got another one for 2 bucks. Also, the head bolt that drops down into a water jacket (right above the water pump) was ruined by one of the exhaust manifold studs.
The whole reason why i did this was because one of the studs broke. I couldnt tap it because the left over bolt that was in there wouldnt scape off the threads in the head. I took it to NAPA's machine shop and for thirty bucks they fixed it in about an hour. They had to use a HELI-Coil.
I will update tomorrow when i finish .. IF i finish LOL!
 
You could try lowering the engine some by pulling the bolts out which pass through the motor mounts, and then support the engine with a good jack. Who knows, you might find a motor mount or two cracked and this would be an opportune time to replace them, heh :)

Maybe get some threaded rod of the correct size and then cut and then put in the head bolt holes, one in each corner.

That would help you align the head and then have it lower into position in the correct spot. Then just unscrew the studs and put your head bolts in and torque in the correct sequence......wallah.
 
Muad'Dib said:
Man this job sucks.
It turns out the the exhaust manifold does have some major cracks in it, so im glad i got a replacement. The replacement that i got off ebay is great except for the fact that the spot where the EGR pipe goes into it is in a slightly different location. I had to bend the pipe alot to get it to work, but it did.
The hardest part im having is getting the head back in without ruining the head gasket. I just ruined one so i have to pic up another tomorrow. DAMMIT!
I have help, but even with help, its hard to support the head on the end that goes closest to the firewall without letting it drag across the gasket.... grr!
Oh, the throttle cable that goes from the pedal to the teter-totter thing (not sure what its called) broke. Fortunately there is a u-pull it just down the road and i got another one for 2 bucks. Also, the head bolt that drops down into a water jacket (right above the water pump) was ruined by one of the exhaust manifold studs.
The whole reason why i did this was because one of the studs broke. I couldnt tap it because the left over bolt that was in there wouldnt scape off the threads in the head. I took it to NAPA's machine shop and for thirty bucks they fixed it in about an hour. They had to use a HELI-Coil.
I will update tomorrow when i finish .. IF i finish LOL!
Click to expand...

Which is why I suggested getting a stick or two of 1/2"-13 threaded rod and cutting a batch of ~8" lengths out of it. Use them to keep the head aligned properly as you lower it, and you won't "scrub out" the new head gasket.

I've been doing this sort of thing for quite some time, you know...
 
5-90 said:
Which is why I suggested getting a stick or two of 1/2"-13 threaded rod and cutting a batch of ~8" lengths out of it. Use them to keep the head aligned properly as you lower it, and you won't "scrub out" the new head gasket.

I've been doing this sort of thing for quite some time, you know...
Click to expand...

I tried this, but now im starting to think i did it wrong.
Im now thinking i can lift the front of the head really high and guide it into the engine bay with the back part of the head just low enough to get it lined up with the threaded rod. I thought in the begining that it would be too high to clear the firewall.. or maybe im just not thinking correctly anymore!?!?!
I trusted your advise 5-90, it wasnt that i didnt listen to you. I think im just doing something incorrectly or thinking too hard!

PS, i have seen alot of threads about head bolts.. people asking what size they are. On my 90, they are 5/8in 6pt. The threads i have read say a 13mm 12pt. So i hope that is usefull to someone.
 
Or just unbolt the transmission mount from the crossmember, and lift the arse end of it upwards a couple inches. You'll hit the tunnel pretty quickly, but the change in angle could be enough.

Even having two "alignment pins" can help. If you need them short, grind a slit in the end with a cutoff wheel, use a flat screwdriver to loosen them with the head in place, and use a "magnet on a stick" to pull them out of the holes.

(Come to think on it, doesn't the FSM say to do something similar with old head screws...?)

You can also lower the engine (as Blaine said to,) but I've always preferred having to undo as few points of support as possible. And, as I'd said, I'm fairly big - I've got plenty of reach to get the thing set in place lone-handed (doesn't make it any less tiring to wave a two-foot iron casting around, but it's doable...)

Always remember one thing - Primates are tool-using animals. We're just the primates with the most complex tools (especially brains - the greatest tool of all!)
 
If you have access to a hoist, use a load leveler(angle the back of the head down, then level it at 1 inch from the block) on a 2 link chain. I did this last weekend and had the head in place in roughly 15 minutes by myself, only to have to pull it back off 15 minutes later!
 
Teeter Totter= Bellcrank, don't break it, pick and pull is about the only place to get one, no big deal getting one of the donor vehicle, your vehicle is a diff. story. It will most likely be rusted on and you do not want to break stud/bolt holding it on.
 
imma honky said:
If you have access to a hoist, use a load leveler(angle the back of the head down, then level it at 1 inch from the block) on a 2 link chain. I did this last weekend and had the head in place in roughly 15 minutes by myself, only to have to pull it back off 15 minutes later!
Click to expand...

X2 on this.

471824021_d6d3e34f85_o.jpg


471824017_6b34fb1aea_o.jpg
 
5-90 said:
Even having two "alignment pins" can help. If you need them short, grind a slit in the end with a cutoff wheel, use a flat screwdriver to loosen them with the head in place, and use a "magnet on a stick" to pull them out of the holes.

(Come to think on it, doesn't the FSM say to do something similar with old head screws...?)
Click to expand...

Sweet thanks. This woked very well. Having the bolts protruding from the block about an inch to an inch and a half was perfect. Everything lined up great. I got it all back together and runniing. It seemed to run ok at first when i was checking for leaks etc.. Then i drove about 25 miles on the highway to get back home, and when i came to a stop light near my house it almost died. Now its parked out front, and if i start it it runs with the low idle sputtering a bit. If i give it a little gas, it is fine. I didnt replace the injectors yet, but i will within the next few days (when i get them from a ebay seller). Anything else that could cause this?
 
Muad'Dib said:
Sweet thanks. This woked very well. Having the bolts protruding from the block about an inch to an inch and a half was perfect. Everything lined up great. I got it all back together and runniing. It seemed to run ok at first when i was checking for leaks etc.. Then i drove about 25 miles on the highway to get back home, and when i came to a stop light near my house it almost died. Now its parked out front, and if i start it it runs with the low idle sputtering a bit. If i give it a little gas, it is fine. I didnt replace the injectors yet, but i will within the next few days (when i get them from a ebay seller). Anything else that could cause this?
Click to expand...

Rilly stupid question - did you get all the manifold screws torqued down? Throttle body screws? Get all the vacuum lines hooked back up?

Considering you'd had the head off, you've also had the manifolds off at some point (even if I don't need to service the gasket for the manifolds, I've got the head off anyhow. Why wait?) and probably at least partially disassembled. Can't hurt to make sure, you know...
 
5-90 said:
Rilly stupid question - did you get all the manifold screws torqued down? Throttle body screws? Get all the vacuum lines hooked back up?

Considering you'd had the head off, you've also had the manifolds off at some point (even if I don't need to service the gasket for the manifolds, I've got the head off anyhow. Why wait?) and probably at least partially disassembled. Can't hurt to make sure, you know...
Click to expand...

Stupid question? Im taking that comment quite personally.
Of couse i triple checked everything that would be common since. Everything is at the correct torque etc ... etc.
Anyway, i found that the egr was sticking. I got it unstuck with a screwdriver and it ran better, ill have to get a replacement.
 
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