Dana 30 Longfield install

I finally got around to installing my new Longfields today. These are Birfields made for the D-30 that are much stronger at all steering angles than any U-joint style shaft. They come with a lifetime warranty as well.

Here is the install write-up;

First, in order for the dust boots to clear the knuckles, the knuckles have to be ground. This is done with a 4.5" grinder. Longfield supplies the gauge that you can check the depth and diameter of the grind with. The gauge should fit flush with the uni-bearing bolt hole bosses. I ground 2 sets of knuckles while I was at it so i would have a spare set ready if I ever need them.



The depth/diameter gauge



Checking to make sure the boot fits in the knuckle.


Spares!


Removing the old knuckles;
After removing the wheels, calipers, discs, Uni-bearings, and old axle shafts you will need to remove the old knuckles. I always pop off the tie rod first then loosen the lower ball joint nut (but leave it on so the knuckle will not fall on the floor when it comes loose) and remove the upper ball joint nut. I then use the two hammer method to pop off the knuckle (lay a small ballpen hammer against the flat spot on top of the knuckle and then whack the small hammer with a BFH) It usually takes 5 hard hits.





Then install the new knuckles, tube seals (which I recommend with the Longfields) and tighten to spec.

The new shafts:

The boots have to go into the knuckles first then the shafts slide in. You have to pop the boots onto the shafts, I did this by putting a 30mm wrench between the boot and the tube seal and pushed the shaft in. Longfield supplies a tool but it didn't work to well until I had the boots partially installed.



Then install the supplied bolts into the uni-bearings, they have a beveled head for clearance of the boot. Tighten the bolts to spec and also the axle nut, don't forget the cotter pin and lock.



After everything is torqued to spec, turn the steering to each lock and rotate each shaft to make sure the boot is not rubbing the knuckle, if it isn't then all is good.

Longfield installs a grease fitting in the birfs and they also supply the needle to grease them with.




Thats it! Its a easy install and everything fits great. Now the weak link is the R&P which I will be addressing during my next set of mods.

Here is a pic of the shafts before install.

Great write up, thanks!

Nice write up man!

I personally wouldn't be able to justify the cost of these for a D30, but to each their own.

Good luck with them :thumbup:

What's the plan for the R&P? Full-case locker? Truss? Cryo?

I didn't know they came out with these, I thought only the rubi 44's were out.

What was the cost?

-Alex

Ba-Riedo said:

I didn't know they came out with these, I thought only the rubi 44's were out.

What was the cost?

-Alex

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somewhere in the $800 range IIRC

I plan on trussing the axle and tye that into the RuffStuff cover to reduce deflection.

I got a deal on them but they normally run around $850, not much more than CTM's and shafts.

I was under the impression the toyota guys that had birfields didn't like them and that they were weak, but perhaps that just applies to stock stuff.

xj92 said:

I was under the impression the toyota guys that had birfields didn't like them and that they were weak, but perhaps that just applies to stock stuff.

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You're thinking of stock, because Bobby has a hell of a reputation for his 'Longfield' replacement axles. One of my customers is running the first set he built for a Rubicon over a year ago. He's wheeled the piss out of them and broken all kinds of other stuff...but the Longfields are running just fine. If he can't break them, I doubt anyone can.

So it's like an upgraded and improved CV shaft?

It looks like you used brake cleaner on your tube seals? Did the same thing to mine and the pretty red paint came right off...heh!

looks good nice write up.

now spend a couple bucks and get rid of that stock steering :roll:

Gravesdiggerxj said:

looks good nice write up.

now spend a couple bucks and get rid of that stock steering :roll:

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It's not entirely stock, he has a different tierod.

Blaine B. said:

It's not entirely stock, he has a different tierod.

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Right, I'm running the Big Daddy tie rod and I carry a spare drag link and all 4 ends "just in case". I have no bump steer issues (or any issues for that matter) with the stock steering and it holds up fine for what I'm doing so I'm sticking with it.

Sow how are tight turns with the longfields. I assume that it improved somewhat. Is that correct?

Markos said:

Sow how are tight turns with the longfields. I assume that it improved somewhat. Is that correct?

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I see no difference on the street, I haven't wheeled it yet to see the difference there.

As far as strength, the Longfields are as strong turned as they are straight, U-joint shafts are not.

that is a nice setup for the 30. and my buddy has some of his berfields and they are super strong :thumbup:

xjtrailrider said:

I see no difference on the street, I haven't wheeled it yet to see the difference there.

As far as strength, the Longfields are as strong turned as they are straight, U-joint shafts are not.

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Come on down to the Crawl to show us how good they work.

Very cool! Bringin' the bling!

PacificEd said:

Come on down to the Crawl to show us how good they work.

Very cool! Bringin' the bling!

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Thanks Ed! I won't be able to make the Crawl due to family obligations that weekend but I still have high hopes of making the Fall Flog.

There is a lot of other work to be done including 2 new axles that need gears set-up, trusses and lockers. I also have a T-case to build with TeraLow 4:1, 2-Low and a Novak shifter and a winch bumper to build.

Digging up a not so old post.....

How have they performed to date?
Were these 30 spline inner / 27 outer ?

John