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The best radiator for an '89 closed

Muddy Beast

Muddy Beast

NAXJA Forum User
Location
WA
I searched, and just found tons of info on random things but nothing I'm looking for. I want a straight forward answer, and hopefully a website/price on the radiator. What radiator do people consider the best for an '89 closed Cherokee. And I also have a tranny cooler.

~Scott
 
I guess it is kind of subjective. Some people prefer an all copper radiator. I have a Modine Aluminum 2 row, with the plastic end tanks. Other than the drain valve being junk and a couple of minor fitment issues when I installed it. No trouble what so ever. My surge tank and cap are in good shape, the fan clutch new. Thermostat OEM. No overheating issues what so ever.
I do have a leftover from the days I had problems, a switch to manually turn on the aux fan. I do switch it on periodically, force of habit more than actual need. When my temp. gage starts creeping up, during extended low speed driving or idle, I automatically turn on the aux fan.
The aluminum seems to pass heat better IMO and the fins aren't as fine as the copper, so it is less prone to plugging up with grass seed, pollen, bugs or whatever. Easier to wash out when it is dirty.
 
I have used both Performance Radiator (Thai) and Modine (Canadian, OEM) with good results on RENIX - and just about anything else - in the past.

If you want to support a sponsor and you're not in a hurry, order a CSF 3-row from Dirk at DPG, uniformly good reports from the field. Haven't tried one myself yet, but I can't think of a reason not to at this point.

Recommend you stick with all copper, unless you're going to get (and stay!) aggressive with maintenance. Oddly enough, aluminum radiators can corrode more quickly than copper - I'd have to check, but I think there's a wider separation between aluminum and iron on the galvanic scale, and that would have a lot to do with it.
 
why do you want to keep the closed system?

if your changing the radiator any ways why not get one with a cap and eliminate that bottle? when i did mine (several years ago) i bought a replacement radiator from a 93 it had a place for the fan sensor (was caped with a removeable plug) it bolted straight in. i bought a generic overflow bottle and went on my way.
 
DesertRunner said:
why do you want to keep the closed system?

if your changing the radiator any ways why not get one with a cap and eliminate that bottle? when i did mine (several years ago) i bought a replacement radiator from a 93 it had a place for the fan sensor (was caped with a removeable plug) it bolted straight in. i bought a generic overflow bottle and went on my way.
Click to expand...

Because if you maintain the closed system if works fine.

~Scott
 
Muddy Beast said:
Because if you maintain the closed system if works fine.

~Scott
Click to expand...

Yep, it do.

Out of the five RENIX XJs I've had, the one that ran hottest was that one that had been converted when I bought it - and I was toying with the idea of converting it back.

The closed system works just fine, and doesn't require any more maintenance than the open. The only thing I do different is drill the thermostat flange - which I'd do anyhow, on any other vehicle (so that really can't be considered "different".)
 
CSF HD 3-Row from Dpg-offroad. I've been through my share of radiators and this is my favorite so far. I like copper better heat dissipation more durable.
 
DesertRunner said:
why do you want to keep the closed system?

if your changing the radiator any ways why not get one with a cap and eliminate that bottle? when i did mine (several years ago) i bought a replacement radiator from a 93 it had a place for the fan sensor (was caped with a removeable plug) it bolted straight in. i bought a generic overflow bottle and went on my way.
Click to expand...

The closed systems are just fine, even now it's used on new cars, seems to run in cycles, the closed systems vanish for a while then come back. If I had one though I would replace that plastic tank with a metal surge tank with a normal radiator cap, just to eliminate the annoyance of the plastic tank and screw caps though.
 
I put a CSF 3 Row and an aluminum tank in my '90 and it has performed perfectly, including a recent mountain run in 90* weather and the temps never exceeded 210*. I'm very pleased!!
 
I find it hard pressed to get an aluminum radiator over a copper, but it seems it's what a lot of people are doing? Is it not true an aluminum will wear out/corode faster then a copper?

Please enlighten me.

~Scott
 
The aluminum tank is replacing the overflow/pressure bottle, the plastic ones tend to crack and lose pressure (I replaced 3 in 6 years). I believe the radiator I have is all brass.
 
hiimmred said:
The aluminum tank is replacing the overflow/pressure bottle, the plastic ones tend to crack and lose pressure (I replaced 3 in 6 years). I believe the radiator I have is all brass.
Click to expand...

I get that, I'm talking radiators...not bottles. :thumbup:

~Scott
 
My first Renix, had problems, so i put a Copper 3 core, fixed it for good.

My second renix, has been converted to open, and it never has a problem either.

either route, will cost about the same!
 
ls1_doc said:
Faster flow is less cooling actually/
Click to expand...

Maybe yes, maybe no.

Increase the heat exchange surfaces, without restricting airflow, and you can increase the flow rate without adverse effect on cooling.

Now, if you don't change the water pump, thermostat housing, and thermostat then the increase in the number of cores isn't effecting flow to a significant degree, IMHO, because open or closed system are essentially a closed circuit, they just handle expansion of the coolant in different way.
 
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