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2001XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Canton, MI
I am replacing my radiator with an all aluminum one and I plan to replace my upper and lower radiator hoses since my engine has 115,000 on it. I am also going to replace my thermostat just because since it is only $5.00. Obviously, I will do a visual inspection while I have the radiator out but are there any other hoses, parts, etc that I should think about replacing while I have it torn apart. Also, what do you guys think about Zerex coolant? Any suggestions on particular brands and why?

TIA
 
I did my water pump at the same time as the rad because it is right there when its torn down. That way you have no excuses for your cooling system being a problem.
 
Yeah, I was thinking about that. Although, my water pump is working fine and I haven't had any problems with it. Watch, now that I said that, the sh*t is gonna puke out on me. I was tossing around the idea of going with the Hesco high flow water pump and thermostat but money is a bit tight and I have read on GoJeep's site (http://go.jeep-xj.info) you have to modify it a bit since it tends to give problems due to the design.
 
I changed out my 2000 XJ water pump and rad. And I noticed that the steel tube thats threaded into the pump was rusted really thin (almost through). 2 of my friends had the same issue on their 97 XJ's. When I got the remanned pump from NAPA, it did not come with the tube. Might want to keep an eye out for that.
 
If I had the money I would look at a high flow but I hear that the xj radiator design cannot really keep up with the extra flow.

Oh yeah I have no idea on coolant other then dont use tap water. I buy premix because you keep it with you and when you need it you never throw off the mixture.
 
thanks SLC Punk (funny movie BTW), I will check that out for sure
 
thanks SLC Punk (funny movie BTW), I will check that out for sure
Always liked it obviously

slc.gif
 
New cap for the rad, and use distilled water for your mix (unless you pick up the premix, ie Prestone 50/50 or the like). I'd give that water pump some thought- for $35 or whatever, it's cheap peace of mind- especially if you plan to do a chem flush before you swap out the rad and hoses.
 
can't give any input on the hesco pump, but having done the GoJeep upper rad hose restrictor mod I feel it has improved my cooling greatly.
if the hesco pump moves coolant faster, I would think that you'd get less heat soak from it (coolant) which is the reason for the rad hose mod in the first place. slow the coolant down and allow it to soak heat out of the engine before it gets to the rad and cool down.

something else to think about.
 
I changed out my 2000 XJ water pump and rad. And I noticed that the steel tube thats threaded into the pump was rusted really thin (almost through). 2 of my friends had the same issue on their 97 XJ's. When I got the remanned pump from NAPA, it did not come with the tube. Might want to keep an eye out for that.


I have removed my radiator, water pump, thermostat housing and all the hoses. I noticed my "heater hose fitting" or water bypass pipe....whatever you want to call it that threads into the water pump is rusted out as well. Where did you find one? I checked Murray's, Autozone, Carquest and Napa and that cannot get it. Is there any reason I can't use a threaded nipple with some heavy duty hose and a moldable spring to make the bends I need and use that? Aslo, when pulling tha radiator I had to cut off my lower tranny cooler line since they use crimped fitting (similar to high pressure hydrolic lines in heavy equipment). Do you have any suggestion on how I replace that? The new radiator I have came with a fitting that screws in with a line like the tranny hard line with a flared end. Now I have to figure out how I replace the hose since the one end went into the radiator and the other end is crimped onto that hard line that goes all the way back to the tranny pan. Why do they have a flexible hose coming out of the radiator and then transition into a hardline using the crimped hydrolic ends after about 12"? Can I just use a piece of heavy duty hose here as well and clamp it over the ring on the new fitting or are there pressure issues?

TIA
 
ahh, I figured it might be. I got mine from the dealer. I forget how much it was. If you want to replace it with rubber (i'd just buy it from the dealer. It works and its no headache then.) as long as you stay with the same diameter, run it so it doesn't kink, and get it to seal properly... It should be fine. But if I remember correctly that area is pretty tight so I would imagine if the factory could have gotten away with rubber... they probably would have.

As far as the tranny lines go. The rubber line most likely to handle the vibrations and twist from the drivetrain. It you flex an piece of steel line enough, it could develop cracks at the fitting. If it was me, I'd replace it with factory lines. I wouldn't trust a rubber line and a clamp. Especially, not wheeling. If that clamp were to fail, you could smoke the trans before you even knew it was leaking. Saving a little now, usually ends up costing a lot later... Just my thoughts.
 
can't give any input on the hesco pump, but having done the GoJeep upper rad hose restrictor mod I feel it has improved my cooling greatly.
if the hesco pump moves coolant faster, I would think that you'd get less heat soak from it (coolant) which is the reason for the rad hose mod in the first place. slow the coolant down and allow it to soak heat out of the engine before it gets to the rad and cool down.

something else to think about.
There are lots of ways to look at that. Since he is installing an aluminum radiator, I don't think slowing down the flow is necessary because the aluminum radiator will dissipate heat much faster than a brass one.
 
I had to cut off my lower tranny cooler line since they use crimped fitting (similar to high pressure hydrolic lines in heavy equipment). Do you have any suggestion on how I replace that?

TIA


i would be very carefull with the tranny cooler hose.. 2 hose clamps at least!
SHOULD it pop off while your driving, you have about a minute to notice the smoke, and pull over before running your aw4 dry, which has a good chance of killing it... been there, done that, TWICE. (1 aw4 lived, another died)
ive been thinking of converting these lines over to AN hardware somehow, possibly tube nuts... but im currently still using hose...
 
so how do I replace this then using the factory style? I don't have the tools to make the specific crimp. Guess I have to buy the whole line from the flex hose all the way back to the tranny pan? That seems to be all I can find. What a PITA. Man, I'd like to slap some of the engineers in situations like this.
 
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