no voltage to coil 1995 4.0 5spd

I've been chasing down why my 1995 xj won't start.I bought it not running with a new motor in it.
I tested the crankshaft position sensor and it was bad.Bought a new one.With the ignition on I get power at all three wires on plug.I wasn't getting fuel,since the cps change I am now.
I get no spark at all and no power to the coil at all.I traced the wire back to a plug by the battery and no power there either.Then it goes into the pdc,which I haven't loosened to check further.
I did the key dance and got these codes.
12-batt disconnect within 50 keystrokes
35-cooling fan relay
33-a/c relay
22-coolant temp sensor(has 5 volts to both wires with key on.)
23-intake air sensor
24-throttle position sensor
55-end of codes.
Until I find the procedures to test the sensors I'm kinda stumped.Would any of these sensors keep power from going to the coil?Tips on testing them?I'm searching the site now,takes awhile.Thanks

Found a post about testing the coolant and intake air temp sensors.both of mine showed 20k ohms and it's about 50 out.

ok I lied no gas either.I pushed the shrader valve and it squirted gas once.While searching in here I found a way to jump the relay and power the pump to check it.I have power all the way back to the pump but it doesn"t come on.
I will check the crank position sensor again,and continue searching.

I'm a little confused by what my cps should read when testing.Some say no continuity between b and c terminals.some say it should be 200ohms,500ohms.
If I switch positive and neg between the b and c terminals I get a different reading should I be?which way should I test it?

DonnMcc said:

I'm a little confused by what my cps should read when testing.Some say no continuity between b and c terminals.some say it should be 200ohms,500ohms.
If I switch positive and neg between the b and c terminals I get a different reading should I be?which way should I test it?

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On a 95 it should be no continuity. The older, Renix system was the opposite, reading something in the 250 ohm range, and dead if no continuity. Make quite sure you got the right type, though I think you'd get a code for that if you didn't.

You might have to look again at the throttle position sensor. Of all the codes you list, I think that's the most likely for a no start condition.

But that's a lot of codes. I wonder if you have a bad wiring harness connector or bad PCU. Have you opened up and cleaned the connector to the PCU? On my 95 I have found that driving in very wet conditions get water and even mud onto that connector, and when I drive in a very heavy rainstorm, I often lose the tachometer (lowest pin on the connector).

I've unplugged and cleaned everything a couple times.Is there a way to check the ecm/pcm?
The cps that was on it when I bought it showed resistance no matter which way I tested it.I get the new one on and it does the same.I'm getting lost in all the suggestions on what readings should be and my manual isn't any help.
I've done a few procedures for resetting the computer.When I hook it back up I get the same codes,everytime.

anyone have any procedures for testing the computer?How about the cps test having different readings depending on polarity?

If I unplugged the distributor and cps,cranked it over would it set a code in the computer?If it did or didn't would that be a indicator of a good/bad computer?

nothing?I can't believe with all the threads I've read nobody knows anything.Must be folks that don"t come on here anymore.Thanks though been a good help.

CPS TESTING PROCEDURE 1991 – 2001 4.0L H.O. engines

1. Near the rear of intake manifold, disconnect sensor pigtail harness connector from main wiring harness.
2. Place an ohmmeter across terminals B and C (A-B-C) looking into connector left to right with the part with the notch in the middle on the right) Ohmmeter should be set to 1K-to-1OK scale for this test.
3. The meter reading should be open (infinite resistance). Replace sensor if a low resistance is indicated.

anyone have any idea what polarity on which terminal?why I would get 2 different readings?

I found this http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42249&highlight=crankshaft+position+sensor
now what should I be getting for a reading on cps,cms,asd?key on or off?

Your ASD is a relay that cuts fuel and spark... swap it out with a good relay to make sure that is not your grief...

CPS, just so you know my CPS tested good (infinite resistance/open) "B" to "C" but tested 0.2 ohms between "A" and "B" and was bad. While my CPS was acting up, I had low voltage to the sync sensor.
The ASD relay isn't going to stay closed, unless your PCM gets a good pulse from the CPS. In other words the ASD isn't going to stay closed (activate and supply power to the coil and alternator among other things) unless the motor is cranking or running.
Off topic a bit, but on my 96, I've had the motor run without the ASD relay being closed. It ran very poorly, but ran without an ASD relay. I'm guessing there is some sort of ground fault or bug (sub system cross over, likely at a ground) in the wiring someplace.
if you get a multipüle sensor failure, why would you start testing and replacing sensors? Wouldn't it be logical to assume some sort of common factor, like poor conductivity in the sensor supply circuit and/or a partial short? A partial short in the CPS could be causing a low 5 volt sensor circuit power supply and affect a bunch of sensor outputs. I learned a long time ago that the MIL codes can fool you, one sensor goes bad and the trouble codes daisy chain and the codes may or may not be the actual problem sensor or circuit.
I never did get a CPS trouble code when my CPS was bad, but did get other trouble codes.

DonnMcc said:

If I unplugged the distributor and cps,cranked it over would it set a code in the computer?If it did or didn't would that be a indicator of a good/bad computer?

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Yes, it should throw a code. I tried it once.

check your relays in the pdc by the battery. Make sure all the relays are good as they control your fuel pump & ASD. If you have access to another ecm, swap it in and see if that fixes it. I had my ecm go bad, but the jeep would start up fine, but only run for 10-20 seconds then shut down every time.

Other than that, i'd say make sure you don't have water in any of your connections/relays/fuses. Also, check the inside fuse panel to see if there are any blown fuses.

DonnMcc said:

anyone have any idea what polarity on which terminal?why I would get 2 different readings?

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Likely inductance and largely irrelevant, inductance can cause a bounce in the needle or a short spike in your digital meter, while testing ohms.
Infinite is infinite in both directions, infinite means open, no continuity.
"0" (or low) resistance means a complete circuit with little or no (measurable) resistance.
Be carefull how you grab the test leads, if you touch metal you can measure the resistance between your finger tips.

Given the multiplicity of codes, I'd be looking, among other things, for faulty grounds.

You mention that you bought the vehicle non running, with a rebuilt engine. One of the other things you may have to do is to go through the wiring harnesses and check for continuity and correct connection. Is there a possibility, for example, that the failure of the original engine could have caused some other damage, either to the electronics or the wiring, from overheating or mechanical stress?

Thanks guys I am so frustrated,I'm sorry about the sarcasm.Back outside to check some more.

Matthew Currie said:

Given the multiplicity of codes, I'd be looking, among other things, for faulty grounds.

You mention that you bought the vehicle non running, with a rebuilt engine. One of the other things you may have to do is to go through the wiring harnesses and check for continuity and correct connection. Is there a possibility, for example, that the failure of the original engine could have caused some other damage, either to the electronics or the wiring, from overheating or mechanical stress?

Click to expand...

from all the coolant/rust spray everywhere I'd say he overheated it.I've been checking I just don't know where to start,kinda.I've been reading too much and my head is killing me.I know I get voltage to all sensors.even the dizzy.Nothing to the coil,talked to a few folks today and they said to properly reset the ecc I need to take it to them and has to be done with tool.lol,can I buy this tool?is it reasonable?I know there are scan tools that only read,anyone got one that reads and resets?what is it and how much did it cost?
I won"t give up these jeeps are good vehicles and I'm gonna get this one fixed.
Again I am sorry for being sarcastic,man this thing is making me nuts.I guess that's why jeepers stick together,lol,share the pain,eh?Thanks again.

I got a 95,rebuilt motor,new clutch,all new sensors(lol),plugs,wires,cap,clutch,etc everything but the ecc and distributor(which has 1/8 play if you wiggle it.)I can see where the harness has been probed so I'm not the only one to go thru this.The harness has been unmolested and all the wires look good.no crummy decayed ones.I'm about to buy a ecc.I just hate wasting money and not knowing for sure.
lol,my meter was junk also,no more cheapies for 10bucks.