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Water Pump Poll

What water pump brand did you bolt on?

  • OEM Jeep

    Votes: 30 26.1%

  • ASC/Airtex

    Votes: 3 2.6%

  • GMB

    Votes: 6 5.2%

  • Flowkooler

    Votes: 7 6.1%

  • C.A.T Pep

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • A1 Cardone

    Votes: 3 2.6%

  • Hesco

    Votes: 11 9.6%

  • House brand, Autozone, Advance, Carquest, Napa

    Votes: 49 42.6%

  • other

    Votes: 6 5.2%
  • Total voters
    115
Don't confuse brand with quality, when I pulled my dying stock OEM pump and replaced it with a NEW [NOT rebuilt] carquest pump it had the same part number on the housing as the original. My dividing line is I won't use a rebuilt, for the extra $15 or so it's not worth the savings.
 
All I know is Stay away from Pep Boy's Remanufactured pumps, went thru 2 of them in less than 3 months :soapbox:, swapped in a new Napa & never looked back & that was 8+ years ago.
I have vowed never to put another Pep Boy's :passgas: part in anything again

$.02
 
I'm with Rich on remanufactured water pumps. I quit using them years ago. They seemed to last about 2 years & then it was time to replace it again. Use an oem quality "new" pump & you are good for another 200K. We always use GMB pumps because that's the brand my favorite parts store sells. I shop Carquest or the high priced guys at NAPA.
 
x2 on remanned water pumps. Used aluminum castings are for the smelter.

Some of the names in the poll are redundant, just rebrands. There are at least 10 other name brands not list here.

I'd like to draw the "family tree of parts" lines, not just for water pumps, but for the other common replacement parts.
 
Crown and Omix-Ada carry reproduction parts, made in the USA, and various asian countries. I've got a Crown master and booster, both made in USA. The Crown IAC motor and TPS I bought are chinese made. Their water pump is probably chinese, you can call the seller. They might tell you, I've gotten responses on that sort of question more often than not.

New aftermarket pumps are usually good for 1-5 years. Close to an OEM. best bang for buck.

hesco's $150 water pump fits a CNC machined aluminum impeller to an OEM housing. Aluminum is the second worst impeller material, next to plastic. This is a race part.

Riveting a disc to the impeller will increase the "efficiency" of the pump by nth %, and double the price. Might make nice grinding noises as an added bonus.

Remanned pumps are often crap, since they are already reject castings. You might get a good one, but its unlikely. Not worth the experiment.
 
92DripCherokee said:
hesco's $150 water pump fits a CNC machined aluminum impeller to an OEM housing. Aluminum is the second worst impeller material, next to plastic. This is a race part.
Click to expand...

Explain to me why aluminum is bad? How much of a new cars engine is aluminum? Usually just about every part that comes in contact with coolant: heads, block, radiator, intake, etc. I run a Hesco pump because I believe it is the best design out there. Now I might be proven wrong in a couple of years, but for now I can wheel out here in 110 degree heat with my AC on and keep my coolant temp 200 degrees all day long.
 
squirrel80 said:
Explain to me why aluminum is bad? How much of a new cars engine is aluminum? Usually just about every part that comes in contact with coolant: heads, block, radiator, intake, etc. I run a Hesco pump because I believe it is the best design out there. Now I might be proven wrong in a couple of years, but for now I can wheel out here in 110 degree heat with my AC on and keep my coolant temp 200 degrees all day long.
Click to expand...

Same here, no problems with hesco. Not sure how having aluminum impeller is any different than any other aluminum that contacts coolant.
 
iwannadie said:
Same here, no problems with hesco. Not sure how having aluminum impeller is any different than any other aluminum that contacts coolant.
Click to expand...

I guess an argument can be made that aluminum can corrode faster than a steel part, but a properly maintained cooling system shouldn't be corroding parts. I'm sure if Hesco's pump was a cast aluminum impeller like some steel ones it would be a different story. But it is not, Hesco makes the part in billet and I'm sure they did their homework on the material.
 
Hallo Jeepers. About Waterpumps, what are the most common failures then ?
My last OEM pump last for 16 years and in my opinion it was still working well.:dunno:

p.s. thanks for the useful info 92DripCherokee.
 
The impeller degrades from "cavitation erosion", not so much from galvanic corrosion. The cavitation pits cause more bubbles and so on.

Granted, on a low-rpm engine, an aluminum impeller will last a while.

There's no bronze, or stainless steel water pump impellers, its pointless. The seals/bearings always wear out first.
Thanks to all who have responded so far.
 
Last edited:
92DripCherokee said:
The impeller degrades from "cavitation erosion", not so much from galvanic corrosion. tiny bubbles...
quote]


I would agree with this also, but part of Hesco's water pump design is anti-cavitation. If you look at their impeller it is shaped way different than a stock impeller that acts like a paddle instead of a pump. I have witnessed aluminum props on boats errode from cavitaion, but in this application I think the impeller will outlast the bearing.
waterpump.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
I put a factory delco in mine ('86 w/a 2.8) and a new cardone in my wifes 97. no problems w/ either.
 
squirrel80 said:
Explain to me why aluminum is bad? How much of a new cars engine is aluminum? Usually just about every part that comes in contact with coolant: heads, block, radiator, intake, etc. I run a Hesco pump because I believe it is the best design out there. Now I might be proven wrong in a couple of years, but for now I can wheel out here in 110 degree heat with my AC on and keep my coolant temp 200 degrees all day long.
Click to expand...

One of the reasons our 2.5's and 4.0's last so long is they are steel, block and head. When you put an aluminum head on a steel block you have the two materials expanding as they heat up and cool off at different rates, result is usually head gasket failure. The heads literally wear the gasket out from movement. I'm not a big fan of aluminum engines either, too soft IMO.
As far as aluminum pump housings go, they really are not big enough for this to be a problem and the tolerances are not that tight like a head to block fit. Also the pressures are not there in a water pump, you are talking 18lbs of pressure vs 100+ pounds per cylinder times 4 or 6.
 
squirrel80 said:
Man there are some aluminum haters here... I guess I won't say anything about how I can't wait to build a stroker with an aluminum head.
Click to expand...

No, not a hater, just don't plan on it lasting as long as a cast iron/cast iron combo. Now if you could find an aluminum block to go with that aluminum head.
 
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